I had the dealer perform the valve lash adjustment and do the auto trans service last week. Now the idle seems to be a bit weird and the MPG has plummeted. When in drive, it seems to idle a tad rough, almost to the point of "hick-up-ing". And when I'm at a stop light, and I start to let off the brake to go, it lurches forward while bucking.

Before I take it back to the dealer, has anyone experienced any of these issues or has any clue what it may be? No check engine light and the valves are very quiet at idle.

 

I have to get this service done soon too. I assume this is your 30k service? how much did it run you?

 

I had the full 30,000 mile service done about 1,000 miles ago.... After I had it done, I brought it home, it sat for a few hours.... when I started it back up, I noticed the idle was a tad lower. The first couple drives, it felt a bit sluggish off a complete stop. But after a day or two it seemed like it was fine.
When I was at the dealer I figured i would have them do the whole shot, so everything; oil, trans, coolant, valve adjustment, etc. was about $690 somethin. Kinda steep, but now I don't have to worry about any of it.

 

It was about $280 for the lash adj. then add $80 for the auto trans service, so it was a tad over $360

 

Have you done a soft reset on the ECU by shutting the key off in nuetral and quickly turning it back on again before it dies? That might help reset your idle. You can also do a hard reset on the ecu by taking the positive terminal off the battery for about 10 minutes so your ecu can reset the idle position sensor.

 

I'd NEVER do a reset like that best way to do the reset is pull the battery.

 

Well, I tried the ECU reset and it still idles rough. It's going back to the dealer tomorrow to hopefully get back to normal. Problem is the dealer took 3 days to do the valve lash adj correctly.

 

I'm 99% sure they adjusted your valve lash without the engine being hot enough. The idle is rough because the gap was set smaller than it should be (since the metal expands when the engine gets hot, the gap gets smaller.) Has the same effect as putting a more agressive cam into an untuned car. Have them reset it and specifically request they do it on a HOT engine. If they aren't burning their hands, it's not hot enough.

 

I just got my valve lash adjusted two days ago and my car's idle is kinda bumpy also. I took my car to a local mechanic to get it done. My car's idle was not as bumpy as it was before the adjustment.

They told me to take it to the dealer so the dealer could fix the idle because it should still be cover under warrenty.

Did the local mechanic not adjust the valve lash while the car wasn't hot enough? Or does the dealership have to adjust the idle?

 

When the lash is adjust too small the idle gets lumpy. The idle isn't the issue, the adjustment the mechanic made is.

I should get into the valve lash adjustment business. Since it seems nearly all mechanics can't do it right I'd probably make a fortune.

 

You and me both.

 

I'll be your first customer!
Just as long as you don't void my powertrain for my aftermarket antenna.

 

i took my car into my dealership and asked to get this done and the guy told me our cars don't need this "it's not a honda" he told me ,i have not been back there since.

 

Otter,

Is there anything else that could cause this? I remember before I got the valve adjustment, my car's idle was a bit bumpy and there was a slight chugging noise coming from the engine.

 

Well, I guess I *am* closer to Texas than otter is.