I mean im not undermining what rob said. he said its not a tuning problem that is most likely mechanical. he knows his stuff and is the ralliart expert. So he's probly right. I just dont know if turbo trix might have fiddled with the stock ecu while "tuning" the piggy. Or maybe its just spark plugs. or my exhaust is leaking... i dont know . Guess time will tell.

 

lol i always have a check engine light. I don't have a cat.

 

First of all... anti-foulers are your friend and will get rid of your rear O2 code. Then see what other codes, if any, you are getting. What is your injector scaling like on the stock ecu? What are your fuel trims like? I take it you are still using the stock MAF. Did you do a boost leak test? How about a compression test?

 

Well, I started suspecting the O2 because of the sound of unbolted exhaust makes a little whistle, second, my CEL went away all of a sudden. I was like WTF, then came back on and off, as the exhaust keeps moving with the engine.

Also about the plugs, you should check them out. My problem started around 70k miles, with the OEM sparks the car brought, I've never changed them. I know they lasts a whole lot, but with the abuse I used to give the car and then some, looks like they are not holding as they used to...that and the combined fact that I use 93 octane in a N/A car, but I woulndt run it otherwise

 

Buy yourself a code reader and check your codes regularly. You can't assume that the 0420 (cat inefficiency) code is the only one causing the light to stay on.

 

About that idle I had that problem to . I adjusted my throted cable. keep adjusting it till I got 750 rpm or 800rpm it used to be at 500rpm

 

is that safe? or just a half-assed way of doing it? I dont want my throttle always being open like that. Just want a higher idle. Is that the only way to do it?