Well I have a undiagnosable sputter/misfire issue with my engine. I have seen 3 different mitsubishi dealers. I am hoping someone else has had this and was able to be fixed.

symptoms.

1. rough idle clutch in or when the clutch is out.
2. low RPM at idle 500 rpm. Then the idle creeps up to about 800 to 900 rpm but has a misfire.
3. Driving in any gear depress the clutch and the rpms drop to 500, until you come to a stop then the rpms creep up to 800-900 (this usually takes about 10 seconds)
4. Surging around 2500 rpms
5. NO CELS or Codes when diagnostic computer has been hooked up. All 3 dealers reported the same thing.

update.
6. I have to run the car with the HVAC bower motor at a min. of level 1 if not the engine sputters and stalls.

What has been tried to fix this.
1. ecu reboot and reflash. unplugged the battery for 1 hour. Reconnected the battery and let the engine idle for 15 minutes.
2. replaced sparkplugs
3. checked coilpacks
4. replaced APP sensor (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)
5. checked for vacuum leaks
6. cleaned MAF
7. checked timing belt - nice and tight no cracks.

Here are some of the dealer diagnoses.
"Oh your clutch is going" 76,000 kms~ 50,000 mi. When I first reported the issue.
same dealer 150,000 kms your car is getting old... "these types of issues happen with a car of this age and kilometers." 3 years old car.

The other dealers were stumped. could be this could be that.


My next thing to replace will probably the MAF and then the 2 O2 sensors.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. If there is someone in the Vancouver, BC area with a spare MAF I could try before I spend the money it would be appreciated.

Tracy

 

Well, this is what the service manual has to say...

 

I had a problem not to long that was close to yours. My car would not rev up above 900 and it ran really rough. I was running super Rich too. I found that the MAP senser was at fault so if that helps any. I would try and find a MAP senser.

P.S Outlander MAP senser work in our cars.

 

Find someone with a tactrix cable and log all sensors on the car.

 

I'd say check fuel pressure/flow. Maybe try to replace your fuel filter. Also, if you installed anything lately, check your grounds from the engine to chassis etc. Hook up a dvom between the engine block and the battery negative. You should have less than 500m ohms or .5 ohms. I'd also do a voltage drop from the battery positive to the alternator output and see what the drop is. Pm me if you find anything out of the ordinary.

 

This

 

if i recall correctly, our cars dont have a fuel filter except for a mesh type filter on the fuel pump.

 

Check fuse #22 in the relay box under the hood, on the left side, between the battery and the strut tower.

That's the only fuse that is common for all three systems you're having problems with.