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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by nystc23
If you have been driving with "No Pad", then the rotor is probably already screwed (and I'm surprised you haven't noticed something wrong when you are stopping. If you have an extremely WORN pad, then you're going to warp the rotor (potentially more than it is already messed up).

Don't drive with bad brakes, they're kind of an important part of any car!
Yeah it just started all of a sudden last night. The grinding isn't contant. it actually only comes up rarely but it does happen. Anyway, I need to drive home from work tonight then drive to midas in the morning. I have my daughters this weekend so I won't have time to do it myself. I'll let you guys know how it went
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #17  
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From: where ever the airforce takes me
^ you should just jack up the car, pull the tire, take off the bottom caliper bolt. lift caliper upwards, pop out the brake pad, replace with new one. use c-clamp to push caliper piston back in(slowly), place caliper back to original spot, replace bottom bolt, replace wheel, lower car, go have a beer.

seriously, takes like 5 mins. well for your normal guy anyways. once you have done it once, your a freaking brake pads changing beast. saves time and money that way.

and this is just saying you need a new set of pads. i would look at the rotors too and see if theres and deep lines running thru it. hope not.

-Flip
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #18  
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wow that is really weird....in this case, from what i understand, you have your rear passenger caliper's piston grinding up against your rotor. To remedy this, i would get a new caliper, the rear set of rotors and and brake pads of course.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #19  
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From: where ever the airforce takes me
Originally Posted by norcalrep707
wow that is really weird....in this case, from what i understand, you have your rear passenger caliper's piston grinding up against your rotor. To remedy this, i would get a new caliper, the rear set of rotors and and brake pads of course.
well thats a little overkill, i would inspect everything first, then make your shopping list. hopefully just the pads. i would also get your rotors turned too just in case of them being warped. worst case scenario.....your caliper piston seized up. then the above statement would be appropriate
-Flip
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:56 AM
  #20  
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One of the slider pins on my LR caliper on my car seized about two months ago. Had a grinding noise most of the time I was driving, unless I was on the brakes. The pad still had material on it, but it was worn unevenly. Rotor was fine. Bought new pads, did the quick-change on them as outlined a few posts above, and also cleaned/greased all the slider pins before reassembly.

No more noise.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #21  
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looks like the caliper seized and wore out the pad prematuerly. The other side is really rusty so I'm gonna get new pads/rotors/calipers for both sides. I'm expecting it to cost abot 1200 or so after it's all done.....ugh. Just finished signing up for a bunch of overtime at work lol.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #22  
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From: fallbrook
Look into rebuildin them
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #23  
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From: where ever the airforce takes me
Originally Posted by Antonovich
looks like the caliper seized and wore out the pad prematuerly. The other side is really rusty so I'm gonna get new pads/rotors/calipers for both sides. I'm expecting it to cost abot 1200 or so after it's all done.....ugh. Just finished signing up for a bunch of overtime at work lol.
seriously bro, dont go spending 1200 on some ish you can do right in your drive way. dosnt take long at all, and you would save pretty much like 1k in money.
just do like i said a couple posts before this, and since your going to have to change out the calipers, go ahead and bleed your brakes too. if you go and get a "loaded caliper" rebuild kit from the part store, it come with EVERYTHNG you need. you may want to get different pads thought then the ones they come with. its all stupid simple. stop wasting your money. but hey if you want to spend all that on useless fee's and unnecessary labor go right on ahead.
-Flip
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #24  
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From: Somewhere with TIF
Originally Posted by Antonovich
looks like the caliper seized and wore out the pad prematuerly. The other side is really rusty so I'm gonna get new pads/rotors/calipers for both sides. I'm expecting it to cost abot 1200 or so after it's all done.....ugh. Just finished signing up for a bunch of overtime at work lol.
1200! You should see if you can just get the calipers rebuilt, it will save you a lot of money. I got two rotors, pads, and rebuilt calipers done on my rears not to long ago, it was only $500. After watching them do it, I will attempt to do it on myself next time.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #25  
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In NS i have somewhat negative results with rebuilding callipers... the salt on the roads and the salt laden air really seems to eat away on callipers that are rebuilt... still tho, you should be able to save yourself some money by buying the rotors, callipers, and pads and putting them on yourself.
The old callipers bring em back to the parts place for a refund.. they'll usually rebuild and sell em as used, giving you a discount buying the new ones (ask for that).

Its easy replacing the rotors, pads and callipers... just have a friend sit in the car and help u bleed the lines as per the service manual. If you need the instructions per service manual let me know, I can provide the whole procedure.

Edit: Anyway, here's a link to the download, PDF file. Should you choose to rebuild it yourself, its the perfect guide.

Last edited by Thomar; Jan 29, 2011 at 10:09 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #26  
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Yeah it's ****ty but I only have a public parking lot behind my building to do work in and it's supposed to get down to -16 degrees this week. With work, I just don't have the time. I don't have an exact price yet but I'm thinking about 200 per caliper, 100 per rotor and about 80 to 100 for pads. So I'm thinking after taxes and labour it'll be around 1200. But I'll have to wait. If I had time during the day I would try it myself. At least I have my overtime lol.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #27  
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Here the procedure to properly bleed the brake system.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #28  
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Man, this really blows. Sorry for your hardship.
Im broke as a joke these days and 1200 would crush me. Id be eating ramen for a month at least.
Saving 1000$ to brave -16 weather would totally be worth it in my eyes.

Are there any members of the forum that live near you?
I know that otter offered to do my timing belt for me for like a case of beer and 50$ or something amazing like that. (Otter is the man, fyi though)

I have been doing my own brakes for a few years now. I cannot stress how doable this is my friend. First time I did it yeah I was nervous to do it on my own but learning to do simple car repairs on your own is going to save you a buttload over the life of a car.

Im sure I speak for all of us in evom when I say this, please reconsider going to midas to do this and save your wallet from a rape.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #29  
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From: where ever the airforce takes me
Originally Posted by Joho22
Im sure I speak for all of us in evom when I say this, please reconsider going to midas to do this and save your wallet from a rape.
yea and learn a little something about your car....
-Flip

Last edited by Flip; Jan 29, 2011 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #30  
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im sure you can find the setup / getting them installed for cheaper then 1200 tahts redic.
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