The pedal sensor has a defect in it (on early RAs) that leads to this intermittent problem. You need to replace it. Part number is MR578861, it'll cost you about $200 and 10 minutes of your time to install.

As for the code reader, all those handhelds can do is pull a generic description, which is why it's important to get the actual code number and look it up yourself. Any code numbered higher than P0xxx is a manufacturer specific code and varies by vehicle. On some cars, 2121 is a TPS issue, on others, it's not.

If your other codes come back, pull them and write down the numbers so you can be sure what the problem is.

 

use dielectric grease in the connector, it works fine for about 6 months or so.

 

I know the idea behind using grease in electrical connectors is to stop corrosion, but don't do it. Dry, clean, shiny (i.e. oxidation sanded off) is the best. I've done plenty of electrical bulb and connector troubleshooting where someone has used that grease and all it's done is inhibit conduction and made the part stop working or work intermittently. If grease is used and the connection seems to work it's in spite of the grease as metal-to-metal contact has cut through the slime, and this doesn't last long.

If there is a particular connection that seems to corrode often, well, add cleaning it to your maintenance list of things to do more often.

 

Ok this problem has reared its ugly head once again. Im pretty sure that otter was right about the problem. Simply because my car was in the shop for a month, ended up getting the whole engine replace TB and all. But the sensor Otter told me about was the same one I had before.

Im just not understanding why this only happens when it rains cats and dogs. Ive checked the sensor and its not wet. But I guess I'll order a new one, swap them and hope it doesnt happen again.

Thanks for the advice Otter. I just happened to remember this because its tossed the code again.

 

Well I have ordered the part from MitsubishiParts.net but it may be 4-10 days before they can ship it and then 3-5 for actual delivery. In the mean time I cant get the check engine light to go away. Before when it would do this the code would reset the next day like all it needed was to dry out or something (even tho it was never wet to begin with) but now the code is sticking and wont go away. My car is still in limp mode and is a pain to drive. Ive tried unhooking the sensor, then unhooking the battery for a while so that the computer will reset, and that worked one day, but the next morning the code came back. Does this just mean that sensor it totally shot? Or is there something else I can do to possibly get it running normal till the part comes in?

 

what code are you getting? My car was going into limp mode regularly, and it was a loose battery terminal.

 

The code is P2121 which I previously thought had to do with the TB but I have a new one now and thanks to Otter I know its the accelerator sensor. I was just hoping for a fix to hold me over until the new one comes in. After reviewing the thread again it may still be failing because of how freakin' humid its been. But its really getting annoying after doing this for 6 days...

 

Best you can do is buy a cheap $30 code reader and reset the code every time it comes up until the new part shows up.

 

Alright thanks Ott. I'll give that a shot today and see if it clears it up so I can drive it without wrestling it down the highway.

 

Ok. Bad news. I went to Auto Zone on my lunch break to see if I could get one of those code readers. Well my instincts told me to have the guy try to reset the code from one of their machines before I spend my money on one. Well the lil guy hooked it up and tried to erase the code like 7 times. It kept popping up saying that it sent the command to reset the error but it never did. So I didnt end up getting a code reader because apparently the car wont allow the code to be reset. :-/ sucks...

 

When this happens to me, I just unplug the accelerator sensor and plug it back in. It seems to run fine for another 6 months. I live in Phoenix, AZ so the humidity is not a factor here.

Every time the CEL comes on from this, it goes away after about 4-5 car starts. And I only drive about twice per day so I don't know if it is an amount of time that passes or if has to do with the number of times it is started.

The Accelerator Position sensor is located right behind the passenger headlight. It is connected to where the accelerator cable connects to a big spring thing.

 

Problem Solved!

I tried everything I could to get that CEL to go away. Unhooked and Rehooked the sensor. Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. Tried to reset the code with a code reader. Nothing worked. It ran in limp mode for a week and a day, and it drove me batty.

I assumed the reader was just shot so I went to www.mitsubishiparts.net and ordered the part Otter told me about. The website displayed that they would need to order it from one of their ware houses and that could take anywhere from 4-10 days, then they would get it in the mail and I only got it on standard shipping so that was another 3-5 days there. Total cost for the part was $210 and I was fully ready to wait anywhere from a week to 2 weeks.

However as luck would have it I ordered it on Wednesday last week and I recieved it on Friday! WOOT!!! For once the freakin mail came WAY sooner than I had planned. The whole process of installing it took no longer than 15 minutes and my RA was back to life!

Thanks for the help everyone!!!

 

good to hear

oh, and
forgot to reply to this when i first saw it, a dielectric is somewhat of an insulator. RalliartN is correct.

 

Ok hoping I can get some input on this issue I'm having with my 04 here since I've had similar issues as of late and I've already replaced the sensor a few months back. All in all I've had the issue for a year or so but like most everyone here it was spotty, act up for a few minutes then be fine for a few months..etc. recently however, i'll be cruising along and lose power.. and once it does that that rpms will not go above 3k. ive had the codes ran several times and I've had anywhere from the app sensor to o2 sensors to fuel and misfire issues. anyone have some thoughts on where I should start? I was thinking of just going through the fuel system first since I've already replaced the app sensor.. it's getting annoying so I just want to get it done. thanks

 

check that your battery terminals are not corroded/dirty or loose...