Throttle Issues After Rain
Apr 4, 2015, 01:47 PM
#32
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sherbrooke, QC
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dielectric is the property of electrical insulation, or of very high resistance. Bulbs and connectors rely on metal to metal contact, adding dielectric grease shouldn't affect connection at all as it wont stay between connector terminals and insulate unless that connector is defective or really loose. It will only surround it, offering protection against elements.
If your problem is related to humidity, dielectric should solve it.
Intermittently defective electrical components are usually caused by the connector terminals unsoldering from heat/internal resistance/breakage inside the component.
If someone has a wiring diagram for the APPS, you could diagnose it yourself using a multimeter and/or a test light, to avoid replacing a working component for a simple wiring problem. But it has been known to be defective on several vehicules so it's probably just that. Even mine acted up in the past but a simple connector cleaning fixed it to this day.
Generally speaking, it should have a 5V feed, a ground (some components ground themselves through the body), and some kind of pulse width output to the ECU (a 0-5V square wave signal). If you can have access to a scope, you could look at the output signal to see if it's right related to pedal position. Some automotive multimeters have a duty cycle function which could work also. A simple voltage reading on that wire won't help at all.
If your problem is related to humidity, dielectric should solve it.
Intermittently defective electrical components are usually caused by the connector terminals unsoldering from heat/internal resistance/breakage inside the component.
If someone has a wiring diagram for the APPS, you could diagnose it yourself using a multimeter and/or a test light, to avoid replacing a working component for a simple wiring problem. But it has been known to be defective on several vehicules so it's probably just that. Even mine acted up in the past but a simple connector cleaning fixed it to this day.
Generally speaking, it should have a 5V feed, a ground (some components ground themselves through the body), and some kind of pulse width output to the ECU (a 0-5V square wave signal). If you can have access to a scope, you could look at the output signal to see if it's right related to pedal position. Some automotive multimeters have a duty cycle function which could work also. A simple voltage reading on that wire won't help at all.
Last edited by xmaster19; Apr 6, 2015 at 04:07 AM.
Apr 5, 2015, 09:42 AM
#33
FYI, with all due respect to your post, in a shop I have solved several customer electrical "problems" with bulb sockets, terminal connections, etc. by cleaning out all the dielectric grease then simply re-connecting dry and clean.
There are specialty products, like Deoxit, that de-oxidize, clean, then evaporate yet still leave a protection that does not inhibit conduction. Relatively expensive stuff, yes.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
There are specialty products, like Deoxit, that de-oxidize, clean, then evaporate yet still leave a protection that does not inhibit conduction. Relatively expensive stuff, yes.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Apr 6, 2015, 04:06 AM
#34
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sherbrooke, QC
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI, with all due respect to your post, in a shop I have solved several customer electrical "problems" with bulb sockets, terminal connections, etc. by cleaning out all the dielectric grease then simply re-connecting dry and clean.
There are specialty products, like Deoxit, that de-oxidize, clean, then evaporate yet still leave a protection that does not inhibit conduction. Relatively expensive stuff, yes.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
There are specialty products, like Deoxit, that de-oxidize, clean, then evaporate yet still leave a protection that does not inhibit conduction. Relatively expensive stuff, yes.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
In itself, dielectric grease is an electrical insulator. The only way it could cause problems is if it becomes contaminated and starts conducting current creating a short or if the grease itself is enough the spread the terminals apart and stop current flow from lack of metal to metal contact. Quantity is also a factor here. A light coat shouldn't impede current flow. If the connector if crammed full of it, or if regular grease is used, then it will mostly cause problems instead of preventing them.
In all cases, it still helps preventing corrosion inside electrical connectors that are exposed to elements. As in anything else automobile, it still requires maintenance intervals, mainly to prevent contamination.
Apr 12, 2015, 04:41 PM
#35
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok update is i had checked my battery connection and the negative side was loose.. i pulled both off anyway and gave them a cleaning before reconnecting and making sure they were secure. drove great for a couple days and then it happened again..(not alowing throttle over 3k rpms and the whole car shaking if the throttle was applied at that rpm.. today i got back to it and discovered my cold air intake has a hole in it right where the battery tray is.. just rubbed it but anyway i dont know that the hole (about the size of a BB) is the issue so i'm going to check the grounds like advised and see about the electrical connectors..
Apr 24, 2015, 05:11 PM
#38
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so I said F*&% it and bought myself a new intake and put it on today but now my idle is way low to the point it wants to die after applying some power.. I'm going to cruise around tonight and see if the old issue comes back and see what's what after that. thanks for all the input
Jun 2, 2015, 03:23 PM
#40
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah been driving it a couple weeks now but seems to be running rough, more so at idle I think I may be having fuel delivery issues (still occasionally get a misfire code) I got some researching to do. thanks for the help homies
Jun 16, 2017, 10:51 AM
#42
The pedal sensor has a defect in it (on early RAs) that leads to this intermittent problem. You need to replace it. Part number is MR578861, it'll cost you about $200 and 10 minutes of your time to install.
As for the code reader, all those handhelds can do is pull a generic description, which is why it's important to get the actual code number and look it up yourself. Any code numbered higher than P0xxx is a manufacturer specific code and varies by vehicle. On some cars, 2121 is a TPS issue, on others, it's not.
If your other codes come back, pull them and write down the numbers so you can be sure what the problem is.
As for the code reader, all those handhelds can do is pull a generic description, which is why it's important to get the actual code number and look it up yourself. Any code numbered higher than P0xxx is a manufacturer specific code and varies by vehicle. On some cars, 2121 is a TPS issue, on others, it's not.
If your other codes come back, pull them and write down the numbers so you can be sure what the problem is.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Erik@MIL.SPEC
Evo 'For Sale' External Engine / Power
365
Aug 29, 2017 12:59 PM
Raceghost
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
25
Jan 27, 2017 03:20 PM
kamote2000
General Engine Management / Tuning Forum
0
Sep 30, 2016 10:50 PM
