Well, recently, about earlier this week actually, I noticed my brakes needed a change. My front rotors were grinding. I hear Metal on metal while driving, and especially while braking. And yesterday, I realized before pulling on to a road that my brakes weren't working.... The pedal went to the floor, then after me messing with it (pumping etc.) it started working, also the "Brake" light came on. But went away after the "fix". Now today, they're gone, like I put that (explicit word) to the floor and it BARELY slows down, and please feel free to exxaggerate on how drastic it doesn't slow down... Because it is that bad. Also I noticed there's no grinding noise or anything coming from my front rotors, no grinding or anything. So please, help me out here, lol I'm going to but on pads hoping it will solve the problem, but let's face it. There's ALWAYS Some thing else. I might add I need this as a DD for work. Since work pays for the car and insurance thank you guys so much!

 

Get new rotors as well as pads. If the pedal went to the floor check and see of your brake lines are leaking as well.

 

^this. i was going to suggest checking your brake fluid as well as checking the lines.

 

^yes full brake job is in order man

rotors, pads and might as well bleed the brakes with some new fluid...its not too hard and its well worth after all you need to stop

 

if none of the above work might be your brake booster and/or master cylinder has gone bad?

 

The brake light goes on if the master cylinder fluid level is too low, which can happen when the pads (and rotors) get ground down to nothing. So: new pads, new rotors, watch the new level of the master cylinder fluid rise as you push the brake pistons back into their bores to fit the new thick pads and then fill with more brake fluid if you have to, then you're probably good to go.

 

scheduled maintenance got to keep up with it or the car will fall apart

 

Do I definitely need new rotors? I mean if I get pads now, and rotors next week when I get paid is that ok?

 

I would only install them together as bedding the new pads with the old rotors will cause issues when you swap the new rotors later.

 

if you didn't royally **** the rotors by grinding them down with the metal portion of the brake pad, you can have them turned for 10-20 bucks a pop, by an automotive machinist, but some parts stores sell brand new "OE replacements" for about double that cost...

 

Well my rotors looked good so I put the pads in, the left side wheel but the Inside pad was literally on existant. It looked like shrapnel. But anyway can I call someone to get a run through of what I an do

 

I would even advise against the regrind of the rotor. You're giving yourself even less material to stop with. The brake system on a car is not something i'd cut corners with.

 

The idea of a brake pad is that it will wear, not the rotor...there are limits to having your rotors machined, so as long as they are not ridiculously warped, or a significant amount of rotor material removed by not replacing the pads, you can have them turned, as all you're doing is resurfacing, allowing bedding of the news pads, they would only remove a few thousandths from either side...negligible compared to the thickness of the rotor. if you ran the pad backing into the rotor, you need new rotors...period.

I've seen cars that ran the piston into the rotor...

 

Lol well ALL is well fellas, did everything, bled the breaks ( forgot to do that at first and my pedal still went to the floor). Everything is back to normal! Thanks for everything guys, damn I love you all lmao great help and advice!

 

Just to get the stupid question out of the way... You added more brake fluid when bleeding the brakes right? Or at least made sure it was within proper levels.

Did you get new rotors?