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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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RPM Shift timing

Sup everyone.. I just picked up an 05 ralli on friday! I've never driven stick before up until the past couple days and i only have about 2 hours of drive time on it so i'm still learning what's up with it. I had a few questions though on what RPMS everyone is shifting at for each gear? Like going from 4th to 5th on the freeway. And does it have to be at a certain RPM to shift to 5th.

Like i said i have only been driving stick for two days and don't know much of the basics so i'm looking for any basic knowledge / help / tips ..

And when in 5th on the highway what RPMS are you usually at ? Today when I did my first freeway run i was going about 80 at 4 - 4.5 + is that normal?

Feel free to flame for I know i deserve -_- cuz i didn't even bother searching, just bring the knowledge

Last edited by JoshMFSanchez; Jul 29, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshMFSanchez
Sup everyone.. I just picked up an 05 ralli on friday! I've never driven stick before up until the past couple days and i only have about 2 hours of drive time on it some i'm still learning what's up with it. I had a few questions though on what RPMS everyone is shifting at for each gear? Like going from 4th to 5th on the freeway. And does it have to be at a certain RPM to shift to 5th.

Like i said i have only been driving stick for two days and don't know much of the basics so i'm looking for any basic knowledge / help / tips ..

And when in 5th on the highway what RPMS are you usually at ? Today when I did my first freeway run i was going about 80 at 4 - 4.5 + is that normal?

Feel free to flame for I know i deserve -_- cuz i didn't even bother searching, just bring the knowledge
that RPM is normal...the car is geared more toward fun than fuel economy...

you can shift into any gear at any rpm...it will only change how the engine reacts to that gear...you can try to start off in 5th, but you'd likely have to ride the clutch quite a bit to avoid stalling...once you have an understanding of how it works, and why it behaves the way it does in certain situatins you'll have an easier time learning the clutch, and you can focus on the throttle/clutch balance.

I'm feeling nice today so i'll break it down a little, if i missed anything i'm sure the guys will chime in...

the basics:

#1 power is distributed in this order:

engine crankshaft>flywheel>clutch/pressure plate>input shaft>selected gear/output shaft>differential>CV axles>hubs/wheels

#2 engine rpm at idle, in neutral ~700rpm without throttle, any gear will stall the engine, with the exception of 1st if you let the clutch out really slow on level surfaces...if the car is moving slower than the engine power necessary for that gear, the car will buck or stall, this is controlled by throttle and proper gear selection.

#3 the clutch/pressure plate is the mechanical connection between the engine and transmission, thus the wheels...by pressing the clutch pedal you are disengaging the clutch, disconnecting the clutch from the flywheel, allowing engine rpm to be independant of wheel speed/rpm, similar to being in neutral (which is when the clutch/flywheel is still clamped to the flywheel, but the input shaft is not turning the output shaft) the engine rpm to wheel speed is dependent on the gear you're in.

#4 for example you can do 20mph in 5th, but it will be very sluggish...so basically it doesn't matter what gear you're in, but if you want good response, you'll want to be around 3000-3500 rpm in whatever gear you're in dpending on the speed. shifting again can be done at almost any rpm, but generally 2500 to 3000 is normal...but obviously if you want to accelerate fast, you would shift at a higher rpm, like 5500 or something, but remember from full clutch disengagement to synchronizing the next gear, there is a delay, so push each gear in gently at a moderate speed, and you won't grind gears.

#5 don't slam the gears in like you see pro race car drivers do, you will eat gears, this transmission is not designed to shift overly fast. make sure the clutch is fully disengaged before pulling out of, and putting into different gears. Don't downshift hard unless necessary, as long as you stay in motion, you can brake without applying the clutch pedal. so if you want to slow down, and you wish to downshift, brake first to a reduced speed, then clutch in, downshift, and clutch out...this avoids prolonged use of the clutch release bearing which will wear out quickly if you're riding the clutch all the time. too often i see people holding the clutch pedal to the floor the whole time they're braking...likewise when coming to a complete stop, you can either ride a lower gear while braking, then when you're almost to a stop then clutch in, and pull into neautral, or you can clutch in, pull to neutral, clutch out and roll to a stop in neutral using only the brake. Don't sit at a red light with the clutch pedal to the floor, this is unecessarily putting wear on the clutch release bearing (throw out bearing, or TOB)...if you come to a stop, you only need the clutch if you're still in gear, for reasons mentioned in paragraph 2.

#6 don't ride the clutch...sometimes it's necessary, but keep it to an absolute ****ing minimum....this is when either you drive with your left fott on the pedal all the time, or when the clutch is only half engaged/disengaged, and there is still a fair bit of friction between the clutch and flywheel, but you're giving it thottle allowing the engine to turn faster than the input shaft/clutch, so it's just heating up and wearing the clutch out faster...you'll feel when the engine rpm is higher than it should be for that speed, in that gear. especially when starting off from a stop, you're better off giving a bit too much throttle and engaging the clutch quickly and spinning the tires a bit than riding it too much, or stalling...stalling holds up traffic, and people get mad at you, and worn tires can be changed without removing the transmission

welcome to the club

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jul 29, 2012 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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I love the way Crans says to the guy, " you can try to start in 5th" then follows it up with "I'm feeling nice today"

LOLLOLLOLOLOLOL
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 11:28 AM
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thanks for breaking what you know down I've been shifting gears Fast and the Furious style but I'll make sure to cool down on that since I didn't really know that's bad. And I was doing things like cruising with the clutch down in lower gears "for a smoother ride it felt like and makes my car more quite" I've learned oh to well about spinning tires as of right now. You should see me taking off from a hill. I start rolling a bit and I'm like VREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE... hahaha ****'s fun, but I really don't want to eat up these tires quick
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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again, better to eat the tires than the clutch....and about smooth, cluth in pull to neutral clutch out, and it will be the same, only you're riding wheel bearings, not the throw out bearing

once you get real good, you can even rev match the gears when downshifting, for silky smooth down shifts...double clutching is pointless on a synchronized transmission...just a clutch in, rev match and downshift will do...

and for the love of god, these aren't dog box transmissions, fast and furious shifting will only shorten the time before your first transmission overhaul, which is quite expensive...if you pay for the labour it can easily cost 1/4 of the value of the car, depending on the year could almost be half...so go easy on the gear box...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jul 29, 2012 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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if your looking for the cars power band its from 3400k-5400k i believe. to save gas try to keep it below 3400k.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
once you get real good, you can even rev match the gears when downshifting, for silky smooth down shifts...double clutching is pointless on a synchronized transmission...just a clutch in, rev match and downshift will do...
I don't want to bother you for the proper rpms to rev match but if you could give me any info on that that would be killer.


And death yes that's exactly what I was looking for.. If i run my car at around 5. - 5.3 on the highway for a decent amount of time for fun of course .. will that be bad on my engine at all?
Real sorry about what happened in your city btw... I bet things are crazy over there right now -_-
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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Search the internet on heel & toe technique. The rpm's will depend on the wheel speed relative to the gear being selected.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
The rpm's will depend on the wheel speed relative to the gear being selected.
this.

you have to learn the car...
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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I wouldn't drive in any gear expect first lower than 1500rpm because you lug the engine which is bad for it because you put a strain on it.. I go first to 2nd take 2nd to 3k rpm and throw it in 5th to save gas Doing this will put you at 1500 rpm in 5th
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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1500 in second is ok, but starting from a stop in second is not only difficult, but requires you to rev quite high and ride the clutch...

i never downshift to first if i'm moving, as long as i'm moving i stay in 2nd, cause first gear is too short and torquey, if you're creeping around a parking lot or something in first, and you hit a bump or something and accidentally tap the throttle slightly the car the car jolts causing you to do it again, and the car will buck like it's about to stall, i'm sure this has happened to at least half of us...it hasen't happened to me in a while, but then i always use second to creep, but the odd time if i'm leaving said parking lot, i'll creep out in first rather than shifting at 1500 rpm...it happens all the time when i let other people (not ralliart owners) drive it...
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Yea that is true but when you get used to it it doesn't happen adjust adjust adjust
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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just take some time and get used to the car...take it easy and have fun....ull be fine
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