idk it was from napa

 

You'll need a head job and gasket kit and have the head rebuilt.

I would first do a leakdown test to test for bent valves before taking it off.

 

Leakdown? Like a comprssion test?

 

weird, yeah, it could have been improper tension...the auto tensioner isn't your savior, the pullies need to be positioned correctly for the auto tensioner to work properly...and silvershadow is right, with the new valves you would need them lapped and seated, and the head decked. you will also need a gasket kit. comes with all new valve stem seals, camshaft seal, head gasket etc.

a leak down test is similar to a compression test, but instead of measuring compression, you introduce compressed air into the combustion chamber at TDC and you measure pressure loss...a compression test is easier and requires less equipment. but a leak down test will tell you exactly what is leaking among other things, but if ANY of the valves are leaking (intake or exhaust) the head needs to come off, and since it ran fine before the failure we can assume the pistons are not leaking, so a compression test should be fine...

oh and how long has that NAPA belt been on the car? who installed it?

 

Napa belt has been on for 2 years I bought it the same time I did the serpentine belt and I took that off yesterday and it still looked close to new I havent taken off the udp yet as the bolts are on their good but to me it looked like the balance shaft belt was tangled up with the timimg belt.

As for the head I dont really have a budget or the time to take it to get machined.

 

was the balance shaft belt the same age? it may have failed and destroyed the timing belt...

 

Yea I decided to change both at the time but unwisely I didnt change the water pump or any of the other barrings.

 

hmm...my suggestion would be water pump, belts and bearings(pulleys) and check compression...shouldn't take more than a day or two once you have the parts...

 

could've just been a defective belt...good enough to pass quality check(if they did any), but not good enough for the expected lifetime of the belt...
theoretically, in a interference engine, as soon as the belt goes there go your valves...and possibly pistons too...but in reality it's possible you can get away w/ just slapping a new belt on...

good luck on hopefully saving your engine economically...(just the belt/belt set, and pulleys, and water pump)...
while u have the coolant drained..depending if/when u had it done last, u may wanna do a thermostat also...and upper/lower radiator hoses(depending on mileage)...probably takes all of half an hour...probably wont need all that but it's just preventive maintenance

 

Just wondering I thought our water pumps in the RA's was an electronic water pump or was I mistaking?

 

i've never heard of or seen an electric water pump...every vehicle i've ever worked on, which is quite a few always has a mechanically driven water pump, some run on the accessory belt, and some run of the timing belt itself...but i've never seen an electric pump.

not necessarily, i think i stated this in my timing belt failure thread, but without compression there won't be combustion, and without a timing belt, the camshaft is just rotating freely, so as the piston impacts the valve, there's nothing stopping the valve from simply being pushed against the spring/rocker and just allowing the cam lobe to rotate out of the way, unless the cam was in a position where when one set of valves is impacted by the piston, pushing them back into the head, causeing the cam to lock another set in the open position in another cylinder while they are impacted by their piston, the cam lobe would have to be perfectly centered with the largest part on the rocker to not allow the valve to retract against the valve spring. not sure at what cam angle this is possible, but if you get lucky you could potentially have the piston make contact with the valves across all 4 cylinders without bending any of them...my case as an example.

piston destruction is possible, but i think less likely than not.

 

@ 3k rpm's I dont think much damage happendas far as valve bending. As the car died instantly im planing on doing thermostat as the car doesnt heat as good anymore takes time also going to do my brake upgrade wile were down their. Back on the subject the mechanic wants to put the timing back and put the belt on and give her a go unfortunantly he cant work on it till this weekend so im gathering parts and removing parts from the car so its faster when we go to work on it.

 

certain jaguars(and i believe some bmws an some benzs do also) have an AUXILIARY water pump wich is electric..but ive never heard of a only electric wp setup...

ps: thats y i wrote the theoretically and realistically in there...(CYA ya know?)...could happen...but could not as well...
i was gonna write a similar explanation of the cam spinning freely and basically being spun around like u said, but i just didn't...

 

that makes sense, never worked on jags or beamers so that's probably why i've never seen one

you came off a little pessimistic, i'm just trying to be positive. hopefully that didn't happen, it would actually be interesting to know if there is a cam angle that would actually cause that, there are a few different angles where it will just come to rest, hopefully none of those spots will force two sets of valves open at once. i think the most important thing is to get the transmission in neutral, and let the crank come to rest as quickly as possible.

 

yes lets be positive here lol. so "if" that did happen im screwed huh?