Windshield wiper problem
Mar 26, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Windshield wiper problem
My wipers don't work in slow position they only work on medium and high but they both run at a medium speed. The wiper spray doesn't work either. If you press up it should run the wipers till you let go but doesn't work. I don't know if the problem is connected but my dash lights don't come on unless the headlights are on. Randomly my left turn signal will blink fast saying its burnt out but it's brand new. I've seen other posts on here with the same problem but no one gives any solutions. If anyone knows of another forum that has a solution or has there own let me know. Thanks.
Mar 31, 2013, 09:47 PM
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Feels like the clock spring to me. Both arms (wiper and flashers) are connected to it. Check this video out, maybe it will help you make sense of what the clock spring is and how it works.
Apr 1, 2013, 09:02 PM
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Well I took it in to a place and they said there not getting readings from the turn signal switch. so I ordered a new one. hope it works. I just want my wiper spray back. Might just rig a switch to the spray motor.
Feb 18, 2014, 12:25 PM
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No I haven't figured it out yet. I had more test done and they say the wipers are in fail safe mode so it could be etacs or something I need more money then going to dealership to test the electrical system. Let me know of anything you try.
Feb 18, 2014, 03:53 PM
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Test the electrical system by sections.
Check all fuses in both fuse boxes with an Ohmmeter. This will make sure all fuses are correctly working.
Relays can go bad, test them.
Get the car wiring diagram.
Go under the dash at the base of the steering column.
Cut the wiring 2 wires at a time, one leading to an accessory and one to the appropriate switch in the steering column.
Try hardwiring said accessory to see if it and its relays work correctly when the switch is bypassed.
Hook a multimeter in Ohmmeter (resistance check) mode and test switch conductivity (basically, hit the switch and look for activity : if display reads infinite or error, no current can move through,if you get a reading, anything under 100 ohm means current can somewhat pass but you would be aiming for zero, and should be close to it if current goes through easily).
You should get spikes when you hit the associated switch.
Rehook wiring by welding each wire and using heat shrink over your weldings. If you don't and try using butt connectors and tape, you will cause electrical failures given enough time and vibration. You don't want that.
If switch fails, test switch and the sections of wiring individually.
If the accessory hardwiring does not work, check relays, grounds, sections of wiring and the accessory itself individually. It is a long progress but you'll eventually find the answer to your problems.
Note that wiring can be chafed at support points or when it goes through a body panel.
Grounds can be torn off or rusted out.
Check all fuses in both fuse boxes with an Ohmmeter. This will make sure all fuses are correctly working.
Relays can go bad, test them.
Get the car wiring diagram.
Go under the dash at the base of the steering column.
Cut the wiring 2 wires at a time, one leading to an accessory and one to the appropriate switch in the steering column.
Try hardwiring said accessory to see if it and its relays work correctly when the switch is bypassed.
Hook a multimeter in Ohmmeter (resistance check) mode and test switch conductivity (basically, hit the switch and look for activity : if display reads infinite or error, no current can move through,if you get a reading, anything under 100 ohm means current can somewhat pass but you would be aiming for zero, and should be close to it if current goes through easily).
You should get spikes when you hit the associated switch.
Rehook wiring by welding each wire and using heat shrink over your weldings. If you don't and try using butt connectors and tape, you will cause electrical failures given enough time and vibration. You don't want that.
If switch fails, test switch and the sections of wiring individually.
If the accessory hardwiring does not work, check relays, grounds, sections of wiring and the accessory itself individually. It is a long progress but you'll eventually find the answer to your problems.
Note that wiring can be chafed at support points or when it goes through a body panel.
Grounds can be torn off or rusted out.
Aug 22, 2015, 11:09 AM
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same problem
Hello, anybody ever figure out something about this problem? I have the same happening, already got a new (second-hand) indicator/wiper switch unit but that didn't solve the problem. It seems to be fairly common - somebody's gotta know something! please!!!!
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Aug 23, 2015, 01:45 PM
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problem solved
alright I found and fixed the problem! broken wire in the harness coming from the front ECU/under-hood-fuse-box. orange/blk wire which goes from the steering column to both the ETACS and front ECU...
Feb 27, 2021, 11:47 AM
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did you take it in to replace the wire or did you do that yourself and if you did do that yourself was there any solder required or did you have to unplug a bunch of stuff to get to the wire, how labor heavy was that fix?
Feb 27, 2021, 11:48 AM
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How extensive was that fix?
Feb 27, 2021, 12:29 PM
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Hi, its quite a while ago and I don´t have that car anymore lol but I did it at home: traced down all wires coming from the unit to where they are going, checked them for continuity, found the faulty wire, narrowed down the broken spot by pinching into the wire at different spots and then replaced the broken section. (it was in the harness over the left front wheel in the wheel well/fender if I remember correctly). I should have soldered but didnt have any equipment at hand, so I just tied´em up and heat shrunk. Never had a problem again .....