View Poll Results: Does a crunch from 2nd to 3rd mean trouble?
Yes



3
75.00%
No



0
0%
Hell no, I got more crunch than a bag of doritos.



1
25.00%
Hell yea.



0
0%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
Input please: '04 Ralliart - being sold.
Input please: '04 Ralliart - being sold.
Hello people, looking for input. I have found a 2004 Ralliart for sale with 132,000 miles, single owner, clean title. Looks like its already had upgrades. exhaust, and air intake for sure. heater knob sticks (40 dollar part to replace), power to radio, but no sound, crunching from 2nd to 3rd (syncos, or a fluid change from what I read on your forums).
I am thinking about going back down there and buying this fun little vehicle. My problem is I am seeing that parts are hard to come by, is that an accurate deduction?
Also, since there is a crunch in the 2nd and 3rd only, does that mean it is a compromised transmission?
How much life does she have left in her at 132,000 miles ya think?
I am thinking about going back down there and buying this fun little vehicle. My problem is I am seeing that parts are hard to come by, is that an accurate deduction?
Also, since there is a crunch in the 2nd and 3rd only, does that mean it is a compromised transmission?
How much life does she have left in her at 132,000 miles ya think?

if the oil has been changed regularly, the engine should have lots of life left...the grinding going into 3rd is most likely a bad synchro, if it grinded in all the gears then it would probably need a fluid change. Bad synchro doesn't mean the transmission is ****ed, but it will require a rebuild, because eventually it won't be a crunch anymore, you just won't be able to get into 3rd at all. a 3rd gear synchro is like $30, but requires nopt only removal and disassembly of the transmission, but also you need to strip the input shaft which requires a fair bit of technical knowledge, as well as some specialized tools...heater knob could definitely be more than $40...it's not the knob that's sticking...could be the cable, or the gears on the blend door...which could require removing the dash...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Nov 8, 2014 at 06:50 AM.
where did you get the idea that parts are scarce? Can instantly get anything for maintenance or whatever upgrade you little heart desires. The Ralliart members here have stockers, self-turboed beasts, racetrack cars, drag cars, rally cars, even an all wheel drive project, and all these are going strong and never has there been a mention of "parts are hard to come by".
The members on this forum constantly lists sources and p/n's for everything original and aftermarket for the RA.
At 132,000 miles your car hasn't lived half its life, just make sure its not all rusted to **** from neglect. So go for it.
The members on this forum constantly lists sources and p/n's for everything original and aftermarket for the RA.
At 132,000 miles your car hasn't lived half its life, just make sure its not all rusted to **** from neglect. So go for it.
Last edited by RalliartN; Nov 8, 2014 at 09:04 AM.
when I first got my RA I thought parts were scarce too...and in comparsion to a Honda civic, I guess that's true, but in reality, it's not any different than any other car in its class.
So, Guess ill take this car to a mechanic for a check up. Im probably going to purchase this car tomorrow. Any guestimation on how long i can drive with a bad syncro? Am i better off fixing that before i lose 3rd?
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buy a synchro, and a case of beer and drive to Canada...
just kidding...have it inspected for peace of mind...around here, that's about 50 bucks, make sure it's safe for the road, then check and replace if needed, brakes, air filter spark plugs, oil and transmission fluid...bleeding brakes and clutch isn't a bad idea...you could even run some injector cleaner...you'll also want to inspect the suspension for cracked/worn bushings, as well as the condition of the sway bar end-links etc. Also make sure the tires have life left in them...

just kidding...have it inspected for peace of mind...around here, that's about 50 bucks, make sure it's safe for the road, then check and replace if needed, brakes, air filter spark plugs, oil and transmission fluid...bleeding brakes and clutch isn't a bad idea...you could even run some injector cleaner...you'll also want to inspect the suspension for cracked/worn bushings, as well as the condition of the sway bar end-links etc. Also make sure the tires have life left in them...
Had it inspected before i bought it. Covered top to bottom said shes an 8 out of 10. No leaks, everything is tight. No codes. Didnt mention the transmission. I have noticed if i easy it into 3rd it engages fine. Im going to drive it for a while and see how it goes. Blown subwoofer. Ill add that to the priority list.
don't just drive it...change the fluid now, like tomorrow if you can...if you can EVER get it into the gear without grinding, it may still have some life.
You don't have to grandma drive, but don't shift too aggressively, and it just might last you a while...
if the mechanic didn't do any of the things I mentioned, you might want to do a little tune up, and have a look at the timing belt...
You don't have to grandma drive, but don't shift too aggressively, and it just might last you a while...
if the mechanic didn't do any of the things I mentioned, you might want to do a little tune up, and have a look at the timing belt...
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