Stock speakers - infos
1. you've got the component/coaxial thing right on.
2. you're going to want to replace both the midrange and highs (front subs and tweets), but the pioneer's don't come in 6.75 with an adapter ring by scosche, should be an easy install (for the 6.5 to 6.75), or go with different speakers alogether (like kenwood's excelon, pricier, but easier install, though i don't know if its a perfect fit)
let me see what i can find (and pics too)
2. you're going to want to replace both the midrange and highs (front subs and tweets), but the pioneer's don't come in 6.75 with an adapter ring by scosche, should be an easy install (for the 6.5 to 6.75), or go with different speakers alogether (like kenwood's excelon, pricier, but easier install, though i don't know if its a perfect fit)
let me see what i can find (and pics too)
could do these components us front
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...704566476&rd=1
and these speakers in the back
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...704471008&rd=1
and those prices are killer, they're normally like 250 a pair. they should also all be a direct drop in AND save you a little weight (dual mag series silly light, still powerful)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...704566476&rd=1
and these speakers in the back
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...704471008&rd=1
and those prices are killer, they're normally like 250 a pair. they should also all be a direct drop in AND save you a little weight (dual mag series silly light, still powerful)
but you're sure you have tweeters up front in the pillars? i thought that was only with the infinity package.

Workz, you don't want to be running highs down in the doors. It creates weird sound patterns in the car...plus your legs (and the legs of your passenger) will block them from getting to your ears properly. (Yeah, I am an audiophile, so what?!
)BTW..those speakers look good. Great price, too! Something like that should do the trick.
you know, this thread is actually very very good for people who are in the same position as WoRkZ. i actually took time to read all the posts..i had to say something about the very informative posts everyone has made..minus this post
keep it up
keep it up
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Okay, so those Kenwoods should sound better but can still be had for roughly the same price as the Pioneers, right? That's an easy choice... but it could all come down to availabilty though. Since I have to find those on the local/national market (so I don't pay extra shipping and/or customs fees), I might not be able to find the two brands up here. Usually, what is sold in the States is sold here, but these are kind of specialty models (being 6.75" and components).
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Now, one other thing: I do not want to go through the hassle of re-wiring the whole car. It's just too big a job for the perceived sound quality I might get out of it. If you consider the fact that I would have to find a way to route the new wires through the existing conduits just to be satisfied of the aesthetics result, I know I won't go to this extreme... (I know Delta: the sound will be of lesser clarity and could lead to lower-volume distortion and son on, but it will have to suffice).
Since I'll get amplified by the HU anyway (to aswer Delta's question), I think I'll stick with the stock harness. I just have to hope that Mitsu's engineers know each cable is supposed to have the same lenght... It may sound funny, but I'm quite sure that in the Prelude, my speakers were out of phase a bit. This sucks...
One last question guys: aren't those speakers (that coda kindly suggested) a bit of an overkill when matched to your regular, run-of-the-mill head unit??? I mean, if I hook up a 200$ HU to these speakers, wouldn't the unit be the weakest link??? Those integrated amps surely don't come close to the sound quality of any good standalone amp, right? Or has it progessed that far in the last 10 years???
I mean, after all I was considering the Pioneer DEH-4600MP has a head unit replacement... it's not a Blaupunk and it surely doesn't come with an A-class amp built in! Then again, I know that speakers are the most important part of any sound setup...
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Since I'll get amplified by the HU anyway (to aswer Delta's question), I think I'll stick with the stock harness. I just have to hope that Mitsu's engineers know each cable is supposed to have the same lenght... It may sound funny, but I'm quite sure that in the Prelude, my speakers were out of phase a bit. This sucks...
One last question guys: aren't those speakers (that coda kindly suggested) a bit of an overkill when matched to your regular, run-of-the-mill head unit??? I mean, if I hook up a 200$ HU to these speakers, wouldn't the unit be the weakest link??? Those integrated amps surely don't come close to the sound quality of any good standalone amp, right? Or has it progessed that far in the last 10 years???
I mean, after all I was considering the Pioneer DEH-4600MP has a head unit replacement... it's not a Blaupunk and it surely doesn't come with an A-class amp built in! Then again, I know that speakers are the most important part of any sound setup...
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i was reading this thread and you guys are on a whole different field of audio than me. haha kinda makes my laugh cause i have no idea what you guys just said. but i'd got with the dood that knows what they were saying.
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Originally Posted by bobaab
you know, this thread is actually very very good for people who are in the same position as WoRkZ. i actually took time to read all the posts..i had to say something about the very informative posts everyone has made..minus this post
keep it up 
keep it up Well, here I thought this thread could be considered sensory overload... glad I'm not the only benificiary of these guys well tuned, audio oriented neurones.
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From: Sherbrooke, Qc
Originally Posted by rustyj84
i was reading this thread and you guys are on a whole different field of audio than me. haha kinda makes my laugh cause i have no idea what you guys just said...
Sorry man... I have to get the info 'cause I know exactly what I don't want in a car stereo setup. Less noise, more music... less bang, more detail... Since I knew some of these guys in here knew a bit more than me, I figured it's the right place to ask for this particular car. And I don't care much about the guys at SoundDomain.com, they're a bit too much on the bang side of audio...
If I could afford it, I'd go with Harman Kardon though... that would simplify the shopping.
Then again, it's probably more expensive than the car! 
BTW: My bro got a Bose package for the Audi and I think it sucks big time! Those rich guys get robbed and they don't even realize it (I know he didn't)... The thing is tainted as hell, sounds like a boom box (even when trimmed flat)!
I've been a follower for a long time of the belief that for most normal applications, rewiring the car will not make an audible difference. For competition systems, yes. For just enjoying a nice clean listening experience? Nope. So you'll be more than fine with the stock wire already there.
Yes and no, kind of....
Ok, here goes. Since you'll be driving them with a Head Unit, pay close attention to the sensitivity rating of the speakers you're auditioning.
What's sensitivity, some might ask? It's that rating that says "90 DB" "88 DB", etc...basically, it's how loud the speaker can play with 1 watt of power measured from 1 meter away. The higher the rating, the louder (and cleaner) the speaker can play with less power. So Workz, definitely look for speakers above 90 DB. 92 or 93 would be optimal.
Most head units today, depending on the brand, offer between 18-21 watts RMS power X 4 channels. However, if you spend a little bit more, you'll be pleased to find that a lot of manufacturers have discovered how to stuff big amps into those small spaces. It's not uncommon to see 35, 40, even 50 watts RMS power per channel in a lot of mid-grade head units these days!
But again, most head units are no match for a stand-alone amp in terms of flexibility and quality.
In my opinion, a decent head unit with about 30-35 watts per channel RMS power will be able to drive most speakers on the market to decent levels, and do it cleanly. Just make sure that the less power you go, the more sensitivity you have on the speaker side to back it up.
And yes, speakers are the weakest link! You are correct, sir! Focus the brunt of your budget at the speakers!!
One last question guys: aren't those speakers (that coda kindly suggested) a bit of an overkill when matched to your regular, run-of-the-mill head unit??? I mean, if I hook up a 200$ HU to these speakers, wouldn't the unit be the weakest link??? Those integrated amps surely don't come close to the sound quality of any good standalone amp, right? Or has it progessed that far in the last 10 years???
Ok, here goes. Since you'll be driving them with a Head Unit, pay close attention to the sensitivity rating of the speakers you're auditioning.
What's sensitivity, some might ask? It's that rating that says "90 DB" "88 DB", etc...basically, it's how loud the speaker can play with 1 watt of power measured from 1 meter away. The higher the rating, the louder (and cleaner) the speaker can play with less power. So Workz, definitely look for speakers above 90 DB. 92 or 93 would be optimal.
Most head units today, depending on the brand, offer between 18-21 watts RMS power X 4 channels. However, if you spend a little bit more, you'll be pleased to find that a lot of manufacturers have discovered how to stuff big amps into those small spaces. It's not uncommon to see 35, 40, even 50 watts RMS power per channel in a lot of mid-grade head units these days!
But again, most head units are no match for a stand-alone amp in terms of flexibility and quality.
In my opinion, a decent head unit with about 30-35 watts per channel RMS power will be able to drive most speakers on the market to decent levels, and do it cleanly. Just make sure that the less power you go, the more sensitivity you have on the speaker side to back it up.
And yes, speakers are the weakest link! You are correct, sir! Focus the brunt of your budget at the speakers!!
BTW: My bro got a Bose package for the Audi and I think it sucks big time! Those rich guys get robbed and they don't even realize it (I know he didn't)... The thing is tainted as hell, sounds like a boom box (even when trimmed flat)!

Very true though....my perception of car audio is a nice clean, balanced system. Coming from 2 high-powered subwoofer systems in my previous cars, I can honestly say that I enjoy my Infinity package much more for 90% of my listening. Would a huge sub be nice for some of those deep bass passages? Of course...but balance is the key for me.
But hey, to each his own. I respect a clean balanced setup as much as I respect the massive subwoofer-equipped competition systems.
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... you'll be more than fine with the stock wire already there.
That's reassuring to know...
Most head units today, depending on the brand, offer between 18-21 watts RMS power X 4 channels. However, if you spend a little bit more, you'll be pleased to find that a lot of manufacturers have discovered how to stuff big amps into those small spaces. It's not uncommon to see 35, 40, even 50 watts RMS power per channel in a lot of mid-grade head units these days!
In my opinion, a decent head unit with about 30-35 watts per channel RMS power will be able to drive most speakers on the market to decent levels, and do it cleanly. Just make sure that the less power you go, the more sensitivity you have on the speaker side to back it up.
I know the 4600 puts out 50W peak, but I wonder what the RMS rating is...
And yes, speakers are the weakest link! You are correct, sir! Focus the brunt of your budget at the speakers!!
At least I had that part already figured out!
Thanks once again!
_
That's reassuring to know...
Most head units today, depending on the brand, offer between 18-21 watts RMS power X 4 channels. However, if you spend a little bit more, you'll be pleased to find that a lot of manufacturers have discovered how to stuff big amps into those small spaces. It's not uncommon to see 35, 40, even 50 watts RMS power per channel in a lot of mid-grade head units these days!
In my opinion, a decent head unit with about 30-35 watts per channel RMS power will be able to drive most speakers on the market to decent levels, and do it cleanly. Just make sure that the less power you go, the more sensitivity you have on the speaker side to back it up.
I know the 4600 puts out 50W peak, but I wonder what the RMS rating is...
And yes, speakers are the weakest link! You are correct, sir! Focus the brunt of your budget at the speakers!!
At least I had that part already figured out!

Thanks once again!
_
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Originally Posted by Deltarider99
Yes!! Bose is NOT for audiophiles. It's for people who THINK they're audiophiles... 
Very true though....my perception of car audio is a nice clean, balanced system. Coming from 2 high-powered subwoofer systems in my previous cars, I can honestly say that I enjoy my Infinity package much more for 90% of my listening. Would a huge sub be nice for some of those deep bass passages? Of course...but balance is the key for me.
But hey, to each his own. I respect a clean balanced setup as much as I respect the massive subwoofer-equipped competition systems.

Very true though....my perception of car audio is a nice clean, balanced system. Coming from 2 high-powered subwoofer systems in my previous cars, I can honestly say that I enjoy my Infinity package much more for 90% of my listening. Would a huge sub be nice for some of those deep bass passages? Of course...but balance is the key for me.
But hey, to each his own. I respect a clean balanced setup as much as I respect the massive subwoofer-equipped competition systems.
Well, his Audi's setup is neither clean nor competition like. It's just loud and... blurry (it's always hard to describe sound). Anyway, it's not my kind of sound... and I cost more dough than I make in a month. But it sounds good in a conversation though... just like the fact of owning a A4 Quattro. My car still handles better (IMO), but who cares?
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The 4600MP will put out about 22x4 watts RMS...according to the owner's manual on Pioneer's website. It's a decent amount, but you may want to look into getting more efficient speakers, or maybe getting a decent 2 channel amp for the fronts, and just bridging the head unit amp into the rear speakers.


