Removing Rear Disc Rotor
Removing Rear Disc Rotor
I am trying to change the rear rotors on my 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer, is there a secret to getting these off, is the parking brake holding it up from popping it off. I have screwed a bolt into the holes but the bolt wasnt long enough to pop it off. I do have the ebrake off also
do you believe the wheel is just stuck on there cause of dirt? try using PB Blaster and see if it helps.
also try a longer 12mm bolt and it should do the trick cause thats all i needed to do to get my rear disc off. keep the ebrake off i would say
also try a longer 12mm bolt and it should do the trick cause thats all i needed to do to get my rear disc off. keep the ebrake off i would say
Yes the ebrake must be off. If you cant get it off, on my car i needed a m8x1.25 bolt to put into the little holes to push the rotor off the hub-only do it if it cant come off with a malet/your hands
No mallet! Take the bolt(10mm) that holds your radiator support (see picture below) . Thread it through the hole on the disc, it will pop right off.
Last edited by Resurrected RA; Feb 11, 2012 at 04:22 PM.
Trending Topics
Potential is there for damage to the stud threads, etc, when throwing the "persuader" around. Regardless, it was very easy to use that bolt (pictured above) to remove the rotors.
like i said...PROVIDED U DONT MISS....ull be fine....(if u miss then u hit studs, shocks, brake lines etc...)
aim for the rotor...not the hub....the leverage helps loosen it...(provided u dont plan keeping the rotors...kuz it'll mess the rotor up beyond repair most times...(specially if u use my 4lb sledge...lol)
aim for the rotor...not the hub....the leverage helps loosen it...(provided u dont plan keeping the rotors...kuz it'll mess the rotor up beyond repair most times...(specially if u use my 4lb sledge...lol)
only reason you should be removing the rotor back there is if you're replacing it anyway... unless you have an issue with your e-brake? but unlikely... and use the mallet in combination with pb-blaster and should have no issues
i removed mine the replace the shoes and all the springs and pins...you don't hit the disc, and you don't take full swings either...more of a firm tapping you break the rust...
I'm not sure if there is an argument afoot, resistance to excellent advice? (I have no idea why it would be mallet vs. radiator support bolt). A mallet can be used, however it is not the best solution. I am a proponent of providing advice that caters to the lowest common denominator, using the radiator support bolt is idiot proof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5BMQ-xpTog
Reasons why the radiator support bolt is the best solution. It is on the car (you won't have to source a mallet, oddly I don't own one), it works the best (tried and true, almost ingeniously engineered into the design of the car), and the use of the bolt in no way compromises the integrity of rotor or surrounding components (one wrong hit and a stud could be damaged or a brake line, etc).
I am considering a less than mechanically inclined person reading this and picturing them swinging a mallet like a madman because the rotor is seized on the hub. There is no need to get the mallet out of the tool drawer. Trust me, next time you have to take the rotors off the car use that bolt, you will never use the mallet again.
/Thread
Potential takes into account the possibility of missing, someone who is less than mechanically inclined the risk of damaging other parts is greatly increased. Using the radiator support bolt avoids all POTENTIAL risks that are inherent to use of a mallet. If someone uses the wrong tool and technique, and it works, is it the best solution? My advice is catering to someone who reads this thread and decides that the 4lbs mallet is the way to go, as their rotors are very difficult to remove. The bolt will remove the rotor all the time every time.
There are many reasons to remove the rear rotor, not all of them require replacement of the part. (wheel bearings, suspension work, etc.) IMO, it is best to remove the part without damaging it, and have it inspected if it is suspect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5BMQ-xpTog
Reasons why the radiator support bolt is the best solution. It is on the car (you won't have to source a mallet, oddly I don't own one), it works the best (tried and true, almost ingeniously engineered into the design of the car), and the use of the bolt in no way compromises the integrity of rotor or surrounding components (one wrong hit and a stud could be damaged or a brake line, etc).
I am considering a less than mechanically inclined person reading this and picturing them swinging a mallet like a madman because the rotor is seized on the hub. There is no need to get the mallet out of the tool drawer. Trust me, next time you have to take the rotors off the car use that bolt, you will never use the mallet again.
/Thread
like i said...PROVIDED U DONT MISS....ull be fine....(if u miss then u hit studs, shocks, brake lines etc...)
aim for the rotor...not the hub....the leverage helps loosen it...(provided u dont plan keeping the rotors...kuz it'll mess the rotor up beyond repair most times...(specially if u use my 4lb sledge...lol)
aim for the rotor...not the hub....the leverage helps loosen it...(provided u dont plan keeping the rotors...kuz it'll mess the rotor up beyond repair most times...(specially if u use my 4lb sledge...lol)
There are many reasons to remove the rear rotor, not all of them require replacement of the part. (wheel bearings, suspension work, etc.) IMO, it is best to remove the part without damaging it, and have it inspected if it is suspect.
Last edited by Resurrected RA; Feb 13, 2012 at 01:08 PM.
Thanks, I don't want to sound like an ahole. My post may have sounded sounded ahole-ish.
Not my intention...
This is what can happen when your friend is swinging a mallet and the jack stand comes out from under the car...
Not my intention...
This is what can happen when your friend is swinging a mallet and the jack stand comes out from under the car...
Last edited by Resurrected RA; Feb 13, 2012 at 01:57 PM.


