I'm looking for a "how to" for a clutch replacement. I've searched but can't find. Thanks.

 

it's a two man job, and not for the faint of heart. you need to jack up the front end on axle stands, drain the transmission, remove wheels, unbolt the struts from the knuckles, remove both axles, the driver side has a c-clip so will require some prying. for each side, turn the steering wheel all the way to the direction of the side you're removing, and you should be able to force the outer spline from the hub. if it's seized, leave the nut on, but almost off, and give it a smack with a big hammer...worst case, you'll need to remove the brakes, abs sensor and the entire knuckle and hub.

next you need to take all your intake parts off..two hose clamps, two clips on the snorkel, and two bolts on the breather box. now you have a clear view of the transmission...unbolt the control harness and clutch slave line from the transmission, disconnect shifter cables, disconnect reverse light switch and speed sensor. take the starter heat shield and starter out. now get a jack and a piece of wood and support the oil pan. then unbolt the front engine mount and transmission cross member and remove them together. unbolt the rear mount from the transmission, and also remove the side mount from the transmission itself as well as the chassis. next you want to remove the transmission side splash guard in the wheel well. then unbolt the transmission from the block. now lower the jack to tilt the whole motor and transmission toward the driver side, and with some cursing and swearing you should be able to pull it out, be careful it's heavy as ****. now you'll see the clutch and flywheel, unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, and remove it, the clutch will come out with it...now you need a flywheel holder or rig something up and remove the flywheel...take it to the nearest automotive machine shop for resurfacing and wait...installation is the reverse, be sure to align the clutch disc, and also be sure the throw out bearing and clip is installed correctly...

that's pretty much it...

minus machine time, took me about 6 hours the first time I did it...machine time was 2 days

 

Thanks. I was thinking about replacing the flywheel with the rrm aluminum flywheel at the same time. Any advice about the stage one vs the stage three clutch?

 

Depends what your goals are... The oem excedy performs really well if you plan to stay stock... Stage three I hear is a pain for daily driving and I've also heard that's only if your a little girl about it..

 

My real goal is to drive a slk 32 amg. It just isn't a daily driver and it's an expensive car. That means keeping my RA on the road as long as possible and doing as much work as I can on my own. I guessI will go with a stage one and a lightweight flywheel. Thanks.

 

I would go with the Clutchmaster Stage 2 Clutch. It's just as soft as the stage 1 clutch but comes with Kevlar pads that can be swapped out once they are worn out. I paid $1300 for parts and install on the Stage 2 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel. There is no warranty on the clutch or flywheel if you install it yourself:/