I see your point but if you read it it says nothing about fast shifting everything is done in one gear depending on if your on the dyno or the street.
It also points out NOT TO USE YOUR BRAKES he specifically states to let the engine slow it self down.
this procedure he has posted does not say anything about straight doggin the car completely out of the box. in fact you dont even get to redline till the 7th and I'm sure the half and 3/4 would help break in the turbo too being your not opening your throttle plate all the way
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Im pretty sure if you figure out the mile that he actually went without redlining he went a decent distance esp without using brakes to stop.

I'm no mechanic nor do I claim to be but when I see people argue a point and some of that things that they say is wrong were not even said just irritates me.
esp when this site preaches nothing but search search search and you obviously didnt read this article or you would have at least worded things different.

:rant over:

back to the topic I don't know who to believe hard to tell. The stealerships are a bunch of crooks they will tell what ever they want just to get your money. and then again I don't know this guy from Adam!? Maybe the best way is a lil of both

unfortunately I got my car used so I have no Idea lol

which ever anyone chooses I wish the best of luck and to be safe out there
cheers
Butter

 

beat me too it lol I can't type very fast

Or good for that matter

 

Ferrari isn't the only one that uses this method. Race car/bike teams around the world do this. There are even videos floating around of the jap bike makers revving the bikes to redline through all gears as part of final inspection.

Also, I didn't just say similar power. I said similar power out of similarly displaced engines. I wouldn't be so silly to think the stresses out of a 250hp 5.7l engine is the same as those placed on a 250hp 2.0l turbo engine. This is common sense. Why does it seem like you read all of my posts with a blindfold on?

FYI, just about every modern engine doesn't only use piston to suck in air. Intake runners/manifolds are specially designed to take advantage of helmholtz resonances in order to fill the cylinder with minimal assistance from the piston.

Ever notice how n/a car run like crap without exhaust manifolds? That's because they're designed with a measurable amount of restriction at the collector end. While this creates undesirable backpressure for a small part of the exhaust stroke, once the pressure builds up in front of the collector, the difference in pressure behind it ends up sucking the air out from the cylinder - again, with minimal assistance from the piston.

These are facts - please don't bother trying to dispute them.

 

I still think it's not a wise choice. No matter what, the stress on the parts will be higher using this method. You're going full RPM essentially right away (ie. with very little miles on the car) which isn't good. I'd be lying if I said I absolutely babied my car when I was breaking it in but I sure as hell didn't go full throttle until I had over 500 kms on the clock and even then, I wouldn't go any near redline (I'd shift at 5000 RPM and instantly back off). My motor is completely fine so by some of the logic presented in this thread, my method must be the best correct?

 

Amen, brother!

 

Can you give a good example of why, or even *gulp* proof that using this method is not a good idea?

 

I never took side as to which of these are the best I'm saying that both have very good points

If that's how you broke in your car awesome as I said my car was used so I have no idea what the other person did to it.

I did break in my bike like you did your car I followed the manufactures instructions to a T minus (litterally once) I went to 8K when I wasn't supposed to go over 4K and I was at like half throttle.

 

Race cars are not relevant, you might as well argue that since they can live at redline for an entire race (or slam into fuel cut over and over again) that it's good for a street car. Race cars also go through parts like Paris Hilton goes through men. You can't seriously think that's an appropriate comparison. You are aware that race cars also replace motors every few races?
Now you're changing the argument. How can a 2.0 L NA car approach the output of a 2.0 L turbo motor? Do you think a Civic SI motor goes through the same stress as an Evo motor? If you do, you clearly don't know much about motors.
If a car is NA, there is no active system to force (hence the term, forced induction) air into the motor. The only source pulling air into the motor is the vacuum force produced by the pistons moving up and down. It's like the human body, the only force pulling air into your lungs is the force caused by the expansion of the pleural cavity (due to the diaphragm contracting). Nothing is forcing air into your lungs, it's simply due to physics.
These are facts- please don't bother trying to dispute them.

 

lol
Your understanding of what is truly happening inside a modern engine is elementary. I didn't say the piston plays no part in the induction of air on a n/a engine. It's just that it doesn't do all the work on it's own. Go ahead, do a google search of the use of helmholtz resonances in intake manifolds to force air into the cylinder. You may learn something, instead of sounding silly.

Uhhhh, many race teams don't have the funds to replace their engine every so many races. Many of them race entire seasons without changing anything! There are plenty of pics of pistons on motoman's site that were used for entire seasons, and still look like new. A properly broke-in engine not only will make more power, but it will have better reliability. That's the whole point.

 

I find this absolutely stunning. You make numerous errors all over the damn place yet you accuse me of not knowing a damn thing. I am well aware of resonance issues and scavenging and all that jazz but the major source of vacuum is the engine. This is not a hard subject. There is a reason why we have the naturally aspirated classification and the forced induction classification. You cannot seriously think that an NA motor is equivalent to a turboed motor.
Wow, you can site a single race team. How many race teams also blow their motors? We've all seen F1 races, WRC races, SCCA races, NASCAR races, etc. where someone blows up. Of course these aren't relevant.
Feel free to bag the **** out of your car, I don't care but don't come crying onto Evom when you find out that your compression is low and Mitsubishi tells you you're SOL.

 

Errors all over the place? Please cite them. Thx.

OMG! Race engines explode!? How could this be?! Oh right, they typically put out huge loads of power. I'm really astonished at how much you misread my posts. For now on, I think I'll completely avoid trying to explain anything to you.

My point that completely went over your head (again) was that a 250hp 2L n/a engine will see similar stresses that a 250hp 2L turbo engine will see, unless their operating parameters are significantly different.

That's it.. You totally bore me.

 

amby you really are amazing...please stop posting, your really not helping your already weak credibility. I suppose your procedure for brake pad break in is go easy and light on it too?
you have apparently little or NO experience of this break-in procedure for a new engine other than what the book 'suggests' while others including myself do with results to back. The procedure in question is done in one gear, and the brakes are not part of the procedure. Please go and actually read the method before decide to post again on this subject. your a one man( or boy, cause I don't acutally know how old you might be) show on this thread. Don't get me wrong this is a free speech country but, again, please stop Cramming your damn opinions down everyones throats. aaaaaaaaaah

 

Originally Posted by ambystom01
I still think it's not a wise choice. No matter what, the stress on the parts will be higher using this method. You're going full RPM essentially right away (ie. with very little miles on the car) which isn't good. I'd be lying if I said I absolutely babied my car when I was breaking it in but I sure as hell didn't go full throttle until I had over 500 kms on the clock and even then, I wouldn't go any near redline (I'd shift at 5000 RPM and instantly back off). My motor is completely fine so by some of the logic presented in this thread, my method must be the best correct?


By the way the World actually doesn't revolve around you only, there might be one other person too. Maybe you should post your own breakin procedure for others to follow on your own website too?

 

the great part about this, those who actually ruin they car because the magic break in, they never come back and admit it. But sometimes i find them at the dealer ship ,when i go to oil change...
And yes it happened , not once.
This topic is old story.
For the race eng high rev engine works. But the "slow" rev engine which is boosted, ...
Also you got the breaks , clutches etc on the car. SO i dont know how you feel about it. Specially with the SST.
But go and do it, at least we will know more about the RA on this one too.

 

So, are you trying to make the argument that people who break their car in according to the recommendations in the manual never have a problem? If a new engine fails, it's typically because there was a defect to begin with, or the person was beating on it like an idiot. Your argument is thus invalid. Thank you, come again.


edit:
And how many times are you going to talk about clutch, brakes, etc. break-ins? Please read the article if you're going to comment on it.