Controversial engine break-in procedures...
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
I don't remember reading anything in the article that suggest incorrect break-in procedures of the clutch, brakes, and other frictional items. You made that part up in your head. Your detriment is that you stick by your guns no matter how many times your shown that you're going on about a subject matter that was never even brought up.
You are apparently incapable of of understanding the difference between beating on a car, and simply revving an engine up while it's in a particular gear. I'd hate to see how you drive - because it's either like a brainless maniac, or an old person.
You are apparently incapable of of understanding the difference between beating on a car, and simply revving an engine up while it's in a particular gear. I'd hate to see how you drive - because it's either like a brainless maniac, or an old person.
I would personally be more concerned with what the manual says then with some sketchy theory on a website.
Shiv@ vishnu
"Having dyno tested a lot of customer cars over the course of their operation, it seems like the EVOs which have had their engines broken in gently (following the manual) and on non-synethetic oil (for the first 2000 miles or so) make the most power. Don't tell your dealership about the oil, of course"
Cheers,
shiv
AMS:
"I've been driving my EVO with a heavy foot and varying the engine speed but avoided higher rpm's.A fresh engine wears in the mating running surfaces (rings, bearings, ect) during this break-in period. I would think it more important to change the oil after the first 1000 miles than to worry about keeping it below a certain RPM or giving it only 1/3 throttle. A fresh oil change will remove any debris or particles from engine machining/assembly/wear-in process. So don't worry too much about it, just enjoy it (but don't beat the living crap out of it either)."
MalibuJack
"Truth is, the breakin recommendation appears to be more targetted to correctly breaking in the Tranny, rear gears, brakes, tires, suspension components and, not so much the engine."
Guru Del/road/race/
"nah you should be good just keep breaking it in slowly. and glad you are ok, where in socal was this?"
Revolutionary
"DO NOT run normal oil... there is no reason to, and you will kill your warranty. You can break it in fine with synthetic."
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...a-merge-4.html
Last edited by Robevo RS; Dec 12, 2008 at 12:37 PM.
Amby - You must be bored stiff to allow this fail-fest to drone on and on while playing with these guys. 
Just put this thread out of its misery, lock it, and point these guys to the other 20+ threads on EvoM that have rehashed all these arguments endlessly with no resolution whatsoever.
Just put this thread out of its misery, lock it, and point these guys to the other 20+ threads on EvoM that have rehashed all these arguments endlessly with no resolution whatsoever.
Amby - You must be bored stiff to allow this fail-fest to drone on and on while playing with these guys.
Just put this thread out of its misery, lock it, and point these guys to the other 20+ threads on EvoM that have rehashed all these arguments endlessly with no resolution whatsoever.
Just put this thread out of its misery, lock it, and point these guys to the other 20+ threads on EvoM that have rehashed all these arguments endlessly with no resolution whatsoever.
No Robevo RS, not those. This one;
I beat the living crap out of every new 4g63 I have owned from the day I drove it off the lot. Two brand new Talons never had an ounce of trouble from either of them related to what I would consider break in.
The two EVO's I have bought new were broke in the same way. They were driven hard home from the dealerships and then converted to FWD and put on our dyno.
I believe in hard break in. Look at the hundreds of race engines we have built. We don't drive those for a mile to break them in let alone 500 miles. They are built, started, checked for leaks and either put on the dyno or taken to the track.
The wear on the engines when torn down are virtually nothing.
Just my opinion.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The two EVO's I have bought new were broke in the same way. They were driven hard home from the dealerships and then converted to FWD and put on our dyno.
I believe in hard break in. Look at the hundreds of race engines we have built. We don't drive those for a mile to break them in let alone 500 miles. They are built, started, checked for leaks and either put on the dyno or taken to the track.
The wear on the engines when torn down are virtually nothing.
Just my opinion.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Here's the problem, we have some tuners saying do it hard while others say do it soft. Who do you trust? Both methods have their merits but for me personally, I follow what the manufacturer says. Why? Because if something does go wrong, I can genuinely said I did exactly as I was told thus it's not due to user abuse.
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
Here's the problem, we have some tuners saying do it hard while others say do it soft. Who do you trust? Both methods have their merits but for me personally, I follow what the manufacturer says. Why? Because if something does go wrong, I can genuinely said I did exactly as I was told thus it's not due to user abuse.
so that is why you know. No clear stand point here from any of them, If you go through the whole mess there what is the conclusion?
Better if you do a factory method and you will be just fine.
But the fact is , the engineers who made and designed the car , they know what its need to be done. Not to mention the factory break in is not pita to do at all.
You pick what you want. But in my take on this one what Malibu jack said back then.
" Truth is, the breakin recommendation appears to be more targetted to correctly breaking in the Tranny, rear gears, brakes, tires, suspension components and, not so much the engine."
Better if you do a factory method and you will be just fine.
But the fact is , the engineers who made and designed the car , they know what its need to be done. Not to mention the factory break in is not pita to do at all.
You pick what you want. But in my take on this one what Malibu jack said back then.
" Truth is, the breakin recommendation appears to be more targetted to correctly breaking in the Tranny, rear gears, brakes, tires, suspension components and, not so much the engine."
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Fact is crank, and rod bearing do not break-in. To do so would imply that they meet metal to metal with other parts (the crank)... They don't... They're separated by a film of oil.. The only time you see metal to metal friction on the main, and rod bearings (which is VERY bad) is when the car is started after it's been sitting a long time, and there is no longer oil on the parts, or there is not enough oil pressure. It doesn't matter if you think otherwise - this is a fact.
There is friction on other parts, though - seals, cams against lifters/rockers, piston rings (the MOST important)... I would go on, but I have to board a plane now...
There is friction on other parts, though - seals, cams against lifters/rockers, piston rings (the MOST important)... I would go on, but I have to board a plane now...
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: michigan
so that is why you know. No clear stand point here from any of them, If you go through the whole mess there what is the conclusion?
Better if you do a factory method and you will be just fine.
But the fact is , the engineers who made and designed the car , they know what its need to be done. Not to mention the factory break in is not pita to do at all.
You pick what you want. But in my take on this one what Malibu jack said back then.
" Truth is, the breakin recommendation appears to be more targetted to correctly breaking in the Tranny, rear gears, brakes, tires, suspension components and, not so much the engine."
Better if you do a factory method and you will be just fine.
But the fact is , the engineers who made and designed the car , they know what its need to be done. Not to mention the factory break in is not pita to do at all.
You pick what you want. But in my take on this one what Malibu jack said back then.
" Truth is, the breakin recommendation appears to be more targetted to correctly breaking in the Tranny, rear gears, brakes, tires, suspension components and, not so much the engine."
So i wouldn't really worry about the engine. But you have an SSt tranny, suspension, breaks , diff's etc.
Also i dont know about fuel economy in the RA, but the EVo never really was a fuel efficient car
So who cares 1-2 mpg + or - ?
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
as far as i know the EVo engine history and my own experience, you need to do something big to ruin them.
So i wouldn't really worry about the engine. But you have an SSt tranny, suspension, breaks , diff's etc.
Also i dont know about fuel economy in the RA, but the EVo never really was a fuel efficient car
So who cares 1-2 mpg + or - ?
So i wouldn't really worry about the engine. But you have an SSt tranny, suspension, breaks , diff's etc.
Also i dont know about fuel economy in the RA, but the EVo never really was a fuel efficient car
So who cares 1-2 mpg + or - ?
