So, guys what is the cheapest / fastest way to get 300+ lb torque at the wheels from the RA?

 

turbo swap + tune

 

C16, wire the wastegate shut, remove the boost limit from the factory rom and disable the dtc's.

Now if you want a more sensible answer you should ask a more sensible question

 

Turbo swap? Nah. Get a cobb accessport, 3 inch downpipe, high flow cat, midpipe and catback exhaust and run it stage 2. If you get the parts used it'll be insanely cheaper.

Cobb stage 2 runs you at 265whp/315wtq

 

Correction Cobb Protune with supporting mods can get you close to there. You can take a look at my dyno graph and select between my dyno runs stage 2 at 22psi is a good example.. Also realize I am still running stock CBE..


Thanks

 

or you can just get a boostpill, a tune and tell yourself you don't really need 300+ tq.

 

Depends on the dyno.

You could always set the Dynojet to a correction factor of 1.5 if you really want piece of paper to show 300+ wtq.

Rather than focusing on numbers, focus on performance. Numbers are only worth looking at when comparing a baseline to a retune w/ supporting mods.

Get a boost pill, tactrix OP 2.0, and EcuFlash. Load up one of the GST basemaps and you'll get the best bang for your buck ($200ish) but it won't be 300+ wtq. Or you can go the Cobb AP route which can be more portable but also more expensive. Mods will get expensive depending on the brand.

Realistically, go with an Evo X turbo swap and build from there if you want to live in the 300+ whp/wtq world. It'll cost you anywhere between $1-2k for parts depending on where you get them from, preferably used is cheaper. Factor in labor costs unless you do the research and swap yourself.

 

I should have been as helpful as you instead of being useless. Good advice.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong but I think you could do it with a Blaqops kit, injectors, test pipe and I/C. I figure about $1,400 plus tune?

Oh ya, and E85

 

He said cheapest way so that's what i gave him. I said nothing about it being safe or reliable or practical

Personally, 300wtq on the stock RA turbo and pump gas just isn't very plausible on a dyno that is even close to accurately measuring true whp. I'm sure there a plenty of plots that show 300wtq but.. those are moon dyno numbers.. plain and simple.

Best bet as others have said is a turbo swap. If you want to minimize the parts swapping go with he CBRD RAD, injectors, turboback, X FMIC. If you don't mind swapping a few more parts go with a X turbo...

 

Pffft.....I like my moon dyno 316 wtq

 

It's gonna be more like 350+ torques once you get the swap done... if you go with the X turbo anyway .. and the same dyno

 

You could make 300wtq on the stock turbo on a normal reading Mustang dyno if you where strategic about your modifications.

Back when I had the stock turbo I made 275wtq on the GST Mustang dyno with just this:

1. CBRD FMIC
2. Boost pill with stock solenoid
3. Custom tune
4. Evo 9 Bov
5. Test pipe (stock DP and catback)
6. 91 oct
7. "only" 23 psi

Everything else stock

With better fuel, exhuast (maybe) and some more boost you would get 300 wtq no doubt.

Problem is, with the stock turbo, that torque peak number happens for about 300 rpm only. So it becomes a bragging number only.

 

Ha Ha,

I looked at your results before I made my post knowing that if it was possible to hold any reasonable amount of torque on the stock turbo you would have done it

For the record I consider most dynojets to be moon dyno's

 

In that case, 276 wtq on a VD Mustang ain't bad and is pretty close to that 300 mark. Hey OP, look at my sig and go get the same parts. Or the same thing Bryan got.

Really, the cat should be one of the first things you replace since it's so restrictive. Makes for easy torque with a test pipe.