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Cheapest way to get 300+ tq from RA

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Old May 17, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #16  
03chi-town0Z's Avatar
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I made 299 on Boomba's mustang with diy intake, evo x fmic, nisei uicp, ur licp, and 3" turbo-back exhaust with a custom tune

372 on my moon dyno sounds so much super duper awesomer though...

Last edited by 03chi-town0Z; May 17, 2011 at 05:35 PM.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #17  
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I forgot to mention I made the 275wtq in 3rd gear, in 4th it would have probably been 15- 20wtq higher or so on the stock turbo.

Example of difference between 3rd and 4th gear with my BBX Lite (because of spool up differences)

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Old May 17, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mad_SB
C16, wire the wastegate shut, remove the boost limit from the factory rom and disable the dtc's.

Now if you want a more sensible answer you should ask a more sensible question

rofl's
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Old May 17, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #19  
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It definitely is just bragging numbers. I've been delaying/self debating whether or not to post my latest 4th gear pull crunched by Virtual Dyno. On Mustang mode it says about 295tq, and on DynaJet mode it says about 330tq. There are way too many variables that can influence the numbers that are graphed by VD. Seemingly "harmless" dips in the road can cause what appears to be crazy torque spikes... on the flip side seemingly harmless humps in the road can create crazy dips in the plots as well... It took me a while to figure that the bits of road I was using, while "smooth", were far from "flat". Even slight inclines and wind conditions can change the outcome of VD plots...

I had one time where a stretch of road that I found would produce identical numbers (w/ matching boost curves) in both directions (flat and level ... yay!) had odd spikes in my plots. I would get spikes in one direction and valleys in the other. I even saw 20hp/tq difference because of 15mph tail wind in 1 direction became a 15mph head wind going the other... w/ a stronger wind the differences are even bigger...

Any way, they are just numbers, but the stretch of road I used for this plot, allowed me to generate consistent numbers that were all within 2% of each other. The hump towards the end of the curve is because of a joint in the road where asphalt meets cement of a bridge


I'm not really ~too~ concerned about how big the numbers that are generated are, as long as they can be made consistently, w/o knock, and w/o causing too much heat...

Mods on my car are:
UR UICP
EvoX BPV (crushed)
EvoX FMIC
K&N drop in
Magnaflow cat back
GST Boost Pill

personally modified 91Oct GST boost pill base map v2.5

everything else is stock
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Old May 18, 2011 | 05:31 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by spider21
Correction Cobb Protune with supporting mods can get you close to there. You can take a look at my dyno graph and select between my dyno runs stage 2 at 22psi is a good example.. Also realize I am still running stock CBE..


Thanks
Check out their dyno database. Daniel with the rotorglow ralliart did 260whp/310wtq on the stage 2 93 octane map
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Old May 18, 2011 | 06:04 AM
  #21  
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if i had to start over i would buy a CBRD turbo, ETS or UR UICP, LICP and FMIC with a custom tune. i wouldn't even bother buying all the parts necessary for swapping an EVO X turbo in. the CBRD setup is bolt on. you might be able to snag an a used X turbo and fmic for much cheaper, but there's still all those other little parts and judging by the sticky it adds up in cost quickly.
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Old May 18, 2011 | 06:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mikesim
if i had to start over i would buy a CBRD turbo, ETS or UR UICP, LICP and FMIC with a custom tune. i wouldn't even bother buying all the parts necessary for swapping an EVO X turbo in. the CBRD setup is bolt on. you might be able to snag an a used X turbo and fmic for much cheaper, but there's still all those other little parts and judging by the sticky it adds up in cost quickly.
Very true and if you gonna be happy with tuned x turbo power level for an extended period this is a great option but i have not seen the RAD outperform the X turbo yet (not saying it hasn't or can't)... but once you do the x swap... you have a LOT more options for turbo upgrades... BBXL FPGreen, FPred, etc
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Old May 18, 2011 | 08:20 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mad_SB
Very true and if you gonna be happy with tuned x turbo power level for an extended period this is a great option but i have not seen the RAD outperform the X turbo yet (not saying it hasn't or can't)... but once you do the x swap... you have a LOT more options for turbo upgrades... BBXL FPGreen, FPred, etc
Mad SB, I agree with you completely, I have not yet seen a CBRD RAD turbo outperfrom a stock X turbo upgrade either although I (probably like many others) had been patiently waiting and watching. I will say that according to CBRD the RAD turbo was designed to outperform a STOCK X turbo, but it is obviously not even close to the same league as any of the modified X turbos you mention in your post.

I think most guys do expect the RAD turbo should provide a reliable 300AW TQ, and hopefully we should start seeing more results pretty soon. I'm taking my time and getting my other mods finalized before I bolt on the RAD turbo, but I will certainly be very disapointed if I don't see 300 AW TQ on a mustang dyno .
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Old May 18, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mad_SB
C16, wire the wastegate shut, remove the boost limit from the factory rom and disable the dtc's.

Now if you want a more sensible answer you should ask a more sensible question
LOOOOL best answer so far!
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RideSober
Mad SB, I agree with you completely, I have not yet seen a CBRD RAD turbo outperfrom a stock X turbo upgrade either although I (probably like many others) had been patiently waiting and watching. I will say that according to CBRD the RAD turbo was designed to outperform a STOCK X turbo, but it is obviously not even close to the same league as any of the modified X turbos you mention in your post.

I think most guys do expect the RAD turbo should provide a reliable 300AW TQ, and hopefully we should start seeing more results pretty soon. I'm taking my time and getting my other mods finalized before I bolt on the RAD turbo, but I will certainly be very disapointed if I don't see 300 AW TQ on a mustang dyno .
I think if done wisely you can do the rad and minimize the parts that need to be swapped if you latter decide to go bigger...

Cat section and back are the same, short downpipes are the same, injectors, cams..etc etc... So you could do a full RAD build and then latter only need to change the intake, 02 housing, exhaust manifold, and turbo.

Last edited by Mad_SB; May 18, 2011 at 11:18 AM.
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