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What type of oil do you guys use?

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Old Dec 6, 2011, 02:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by apagan01
get some good AMSOIL and call it a day.

many data through field testing and oil analysis to prove AMSOIL is a good syn.
I have used Amsoil for a long time, and I will use it for a long time to come.

When my car was totaled, they inspected the engine in order to give it an overall score. The representative told me that it was one of the cleanest engines, inside and out, that he had ever seen. The majority of the time, it was run with Amsoil. It may not be the best (and I am not sure how you would even measure such a thing), but it is the product which I endorse. I have had nothing but a positive experience with that particular oil. Even under extremely stressful conditions (my FPR vacuum hose blew out, there were a load of issues with turbo-surge and the new BPV, etc.), the motor was cleaner than clean when push came to shove (for what it is worth).
Old Dec 6, 2011, 02:12 PM
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Oh, and I also use(d) 5W-30 for this car. I would stick with that. I can guarantee you that that particular weight of oil works just fine for this application.
Old Dec 6, 2011, 02:50 PM
  #33  
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I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 or 0W40 in my RA and now in my X. Amsoil isn't the easiest to come across around where I live, and if Mobil 1 is good enough to be the OEM oil, it's good enough for me.
Old Dec 6, 2011, 02:56 PM
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I used Amsoil for a while in my car. For the price, I was impressed. It's easy to find, comes in a variety of weights and I didn't notice any burning issues that are common with Subarus and certain oils (like Mobil 1).

Stay away from Royal Purple. It doesn't actually do what it claims and it isn't certified.

http://www.imakenews.com/eletra/mod_...PM&uid=bdgDHkp
Old Dec 6, 2011, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SudzRA
I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 or 0W40 in my RA and now in my X. Amsoil isn't the easiest to come across around where I live, and if Mobil 1 is good enough to be the OEM oil, it's good enough for me.
I tend not to use Mobil 1. I have no reason for that other than hear-say.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 06:21 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cursedsm
What cat? I live in Michigan I have no emmissions here. Yes I know it contain both high contents of zinc and phosperious. What you forget is zinc is also good for bearings. It acts like a pertective covering for bearings and helps keep unwanted heat off them. So no I do not race my car every day, I do not run it hard everyday, I drive it daily with normal driving conditions and never have a problem.
Yes I know it helps with bearings, I was just assuming that you had a cat AND a daily driver. Here in NY, emmissions.... yea enough said hahah. Nothing against you or the oil, I used it quite often during AutoX with the old EVO. I was just reading and just threw it out there just in case anyone decide to use it.

Like I said I lost two cats with my current Ralliart and i should have known it was the oil because I used it on my old EVO with a TBE. I just never thought of it for some reason . Bradd Penn is the way to go if no cat.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 06:58 AM
  #37  
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Use what weights your owners manual tells you to use... if it says 5W30 or 0W30 then use 5W30 or 0W30. They give you a owners manual for a reason, its there to protect your warrenty and its full of basic information you should know about your car. It can save your ***.

I use 5W30 Mobil 1 as my car came with it from the factory. I also use a OEM Mitsubishi Filter/Mobil 1 Filter.

Last edited by CanuckLancer; Dec 7, 2011 at 07:03 AM.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 07:04 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by khami
Yes I know it helps with bearings, I was just assuming that you had a cat AND a daily driver. Here in NY, emmissions.... yea enough said hahah. Nothing against you or the oil, I used it quite often during AutoX with the old EVO. I was just reading and just threw it out there just in case anyone decide to use it.

Like I said I lost two cats with my current Ralliart and i should have known it was the oil because I used it on my old EVO with a TBE. I just never thought of it for some reason . Bradd Penn is the way to go if no cat.
Yeah as much as I don't like Michigan sometimes it does have its perks hahaha.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ambystom01
Viscosity is viscosity. The difference between 0 degrees and, lets say, 5 degrees is marginal. It's not there is some magic trickery where the two different weights will have the same consistency until they hit the magic 0 degrees number used for the classification. For some applications, people want to use a 0 weight over a 5 weight. Under some, they may want a 10 weight. It is not a number that only matters to people who live in winter climates.
You do realize liquid which oil is thinkens when cooled. Thats why there is different viscosity rating for winter. Thats the way it is wheiter u think thats right or not. Why dont you do some research instead of telling me Im wrong over and over again.

Last edited by RalliMark; Dec 7, 2011 at 12:47 PM.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 01:02 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RalliMark
You do realize liquid which oil is thinkens when cooled. Thats why there is different viscosity rating for winter. Thats the way it is wheiter u think thats right or not. Why dont you do some research instead of telling me Im wrong over and over again.
Why don't you write a coherent message so I can actually understand what the hell you're trying to say? You've jumped all over the ****ing place . You say oil doesn't matter unless it's winter, yet you now say it gets thicker when it's colder but apparently I'm wrong for saying exactly that earlier. Jeez, make up your mind.

Last edited by ambystom01; Dec 7, 2011 at 01:05 PM.
Old Dec 7, 2011, 02:37 PM
  #41  
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OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.

The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
Old Dec 7, 2011, 02:57 PM
  #42  
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royal purple user here thinking to switch to amsoil
Old Dec 7, 2011, 10:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.

The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
Ur 100% right sorry for getting off topic.
Old Dec 9, 2011, 09:38 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.

The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T

Nope, you are quite right. I have not modified anything, and was just confused by the different answers from the dealerships. I got my oil changed and put in 5w30 Mobil 1 Synth.

All this information in the thread has been great. I was pretty sure that there would be a variety of different answers, but I didn't realize how passionate people get about their oil .
Old Dec 16, 2011, 06:35 AM
  #45  
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I have been using gold Castrol Edge 10w30. Since temperatures where I live never drop below freezing, the lower viscosity spread helps prevent oil shear, making it a fine choice. Also, tests involving flat OHC lifters, it works better than M1. http://www.swri.org/4org/d08/gastest...st/default.htm

Also, bobistheoilguy.com has several discussions about various oils.


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