What type of oil do you guys use?
When my car was totaled, they inspected the engine in order to give it an overall score. The representative told me that it was one of the cleanest engines, inside and out, that he had ever seen. The majority of the time, it was run with Amsoil. It may not be the best (and I am not sure how you would even measure such a thing), but it is the product which I endorse. I have had nothing but a positive experience with that particular oil. Even under extremely stressful conditions (my FPR vacuum hose blew out, there were a load of issues with turbo-surge and the new BPV, etc.), the motor was cleaner than clean when push came to shove (for what it is worth).
I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 or 0W40 in my RA and now in my X. Amsoil isn't the easiest to come across around where I live, and if Mobil 1 is good enough to be the OEM oil, it's good enough for me.
I used Amsoil for a while in my car. For the price, I was impressed. It's easy to find, comes in a variety of weights and I didn't notice any burning issues that are common with Subarus and certain oils (like Mobil 1).
Stay away from Royal Purple. It doesn't actually do what it claims and it isn't certified.
http://www.imakenews.com/eletra/mod_...PM&uid=bdgDHkp
Stay away from Royal Purple. It doesn't actually do what it claims and it isn't certified.
http://www.imakenews.com/eletra/mod_...PM&uid=bdgDHkp
I tend not to use Mobil 1. I have no reason for that other than hear-say.
What cat? I live in Michigan I have no emmissions here. Yes I know it contain both high contents of zinc and phosperious. What you forget is zinc is also good for bearings. It acts like a pertective covering for bearings and helps keep unwanted heat off them. So no I do not race my car every day, I do not run it hard everyday, I drive it daily with normal driving conditions and never have a problem.
Like I said I lost two cats with my current Ralliart and i should have known it was the oil because I used it on my old EVO with a TBE. I just never thought of it for some reason
. Bradd Penn is the way to go if no cat.
Use what weights your owners manual tells you to use... if it says 5W30 or 0W30 then use 5W30 or 0W30. They give you a owners manual for a reason, its there to protect your warrenty and its full of basic information you should know about your car. It can save your ***.
I use 5W30 Mobil 1 as my car came with it from the factory. I also use a OEM Mitsubishi Filter/Mobil 1 Filter.
I use 5W30 Mobil 1 as my car came with it from the factory. I also use a OEM Mitsubishi Filter/Mobil 1 Filter.
Last edited by CanuckLancer; Dec 7, 2011 at 07:03 AM.
Yes I know it helps with bearings, I was just assuming that you had a cat AND a daily driver. Here in NY, emmissions.... yea enough said hahah. Nothing against you or the oil, I used it quite often during AutoX with the old EVO. I was just reading and just threw it out there just in case anyone decide to use it.
Like I said I lost two cats with my current Ralliart and i should have known it was the oil because I used it on my old EVO with a TBE. I just never thought of it for some reason. Bradd Penn is the way to go if no cat.
Like I said I lost two cats with my current Ralliart and i should have known it was the oil because I used it on my old EVO with a TBE. I just never thought of it for some reason
. Bradd Penn is the way to go if no cat.
Viscosity is viscosity. The difference between 0 degrees and, lets say, 5 degrees is marginal. It's not there is some magic trickery where the two different weights will have the same consistency until they hit the magic 0 degrees number used for the classification. For some applications, people want to use a 0 weight over a 5 weight. Under some, they may want a 10 weight. It is not a number that only matters to people who live in winter climates.
Last edited by RalliMark; Dec 7, 2011 at 12:47 PM.
. You say oil doesn't matter unless it's winter, yet you now say it gets thicker when it's colder but apparently I'm wrong for saying exactly that earlier. Jeez, make up your mind.
Last edited by ambystom01; Dec 7, 2011 at 01:05 PM.
OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
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OK. This wasn't a why to use which oil thread, or which oil is best, both of which typically ends in argument like this. snow is asking for suggestions, and while explaining your reasoning can be beneficial to the final decision, the arguing is not and should be left out or kept private, please.
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
The OP is obviously bringing the car into the dealership, for now anyways, and has not indicated any modification or build that would necessitate anything other than what is factory recommended for the Ralliart (snow, please correct me if I'm wrong) so with that being said, out of the 3 choices the OP listed that the dealer mentioned, you'll want to go with the 5w30 synthetic oil. Regardless of cold weather viscosity, the other 2 that your dealer mentioned have an operating temp. weight of only 20, which are used by Mitsu primarily for 4B11 and 4B12 naturally aspirated models and could potentially lead to issues with the longevity of certain internal engine components on a turbocharged 4B11T
Nope, you are quite right. I have not modified anything, and was just confused by the different answers from the dealerships. I got my oil changed and put in 5w30 Mobil 1 Synth.
All this information in the thread has been great. I was pretty sure that there would be a variety of different answers, but I didn't realize how passionate people get about their oil
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I have been using gold Castrol Edge 10w30. Since temperatures where I live never drop below freezing, the lower viscosity spread helps prevent oil shear, making it a fine choice. Also, tests involving flat OHC lifters, it works better than M1. http://www.swri.org/4org/d08/gastest...st/default.htm
Also, bobistheoilguy.com has several discussions about various oils.
Also, bobistheoilguy.com has several discussions about various oils.