volksjager

that's a little think...especially for cold climates. first number is when the engine cold. unless you live in an arctic tundra i don't see the need for 0w anything. now the 20 is stretching it even in winter time. i'd figure being it's turbo'd you'd want at least a 30w. now if you lived in alaska maybe you'd want that low 0 weight so the oil flow better when cold. but for the most park 5w30 will cover most temp ranges.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Mitsu's official purpose for switching their new n/a models to 0w oils is for fuel economy, period. Now people are going to say, well, once the car warms up you're still on 20 weight oil so it negates the effects. Think of this, though: when do most people allow their car to idle and waste gas, giving them the impression that the car is not very fuel efficient? You got it, winter. Plus, as most know, during warm-up cycle while the car is still running in open loop it's just dumping fuel into the engine, so if they can get the parts to move just a slight bit easier with a thinner oil then less fuel will be needed to maintain engine warm-up characteristics. It's marginal, but it's part of the grand scheme.

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

I do live in Michigan and yes it does get pretty cold. I perfer the thicker oil being I do have a stock block etc. There are plenty of days my car starts up in below 0 weather, and I have no issues so far. Yes I do drive my evo in the winter without any issues what so ever. Being it is a semi synthetic it really isn't that bad of oil to run even in the cold

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

In the end it doesn't matter that much anyways. It's way more important to change your oil regularly than what oil you actually use.

shrtstuff89

iTrader: (3)

Amsoil 20w50 Zrod Synthetic Oil

Have to in order to keep the warranty on my fp turbo

wemay

Mitsubishi North America and JDM, require conventional 5w30 for stock, non-tracked Lancer RA/Gallant Fortis RA. They advise you will be fine with a quality (API SN ILSAC GF-5 as part of the SN designation denotes for improved turbo protection) conventional oil at 3750 mile OCI. Anything more, use synthetic blend or full synthetic.

NOTE: almost all of today's top conventional oils have API SN designation, just make sure to read the label so you don't buy an old batch.

From oilspecifications.org concerning API SN

Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control systemcompatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.

captobvious75

5w30 should be minimum on turbo cars. Your turbo seals might get mad at you when running a 20 weight for too long. Thats thin, and I would say not thick enough for turbo motors.

If you run 5w30 during the summer, or if thats what it calls for, then running 0w30 in the winter is no problem if your climate gets cold enough (Canada and northern states) to justify it.

From a cold pouring perspective, synthetic always pours far better than conventional when below freezing. Youtube has some good video demonstrations

TrailBrake

For warmer weather: Lubro Moly 5W40
For colder weather: Lubro Moly 0W40

wemay

Agreed. Regular oil changes at short intervals, with at least the required oil is most paramount.

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

With proper testing however, you can extent that to much longer intervals.

wemay

Doing this very thing now... Castrol 0W30 German - the car loves it! I can honestly say i have never felt a difference when using oils - thinking it was all in the mind, but this Castrol actually has me running quieter and smoother.

WickedWhiteRA12

My RA came with Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30. Since the first oil change I have been using Castrol Edge 5w30.. just because its cheap at Costco. Havn't had any problems and I dont feel any difference between the first time I drove it (Mobil 1) and now (Castrol).

gimpydingo

German Castrol is great. Running that in winter, will switch to Rotella T6 Synth for summer.

Not sure what crap they put in the car when I bought it a few months back, but I change after 2 weeks and it came out black and thin, I assume Mobil 1 5w30 :/

Napius

Did you buy your car new or used? If new, how do you know what oil it came with? That's something I've seen debated around the forums, and a lot of people are under the impression that these cars come from the factory with conventional (not fully synthetic) oil, which is stupid of Mitsubishi.

Edit: Unless people know that they started putting full synthetic in after a certain year.

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

The only oil you should be using is Official Ralliart Racing oil in your RA!