mod advice... where to go next? (on a budget)
so if i get it, its not very likely that the car will go rich or lean? its a pretty safe bet for the most part.
ill get the hfc and a wideband obviously, and thats a decently safe way to go?
also, i can get a downpipe for a reasonably cheap price, and the turbo swap is down the road a ways, should i go for that also? is that dangerous towards the possibility of going lean/ rich?
thanks guys
ill get the hfc and a wideband obviously, and thats a decently safe way to go?
also, i can get a downpipe for a reasonably cheap price, and the turbo swap is down the road a ways, should i go for that also? is that dangerous towards the possibility of going lean/ rich?
thanks guys
you already have every other bolt-on. it's time for the HFC and tune - there's nothing else you could buy for more power that would be worth the money and/or be safe enough
gauges, seats(recaros maybe), headlights(projectors), swift springs, wheels. Don't frivolously spend your money like you have it and need to spend it. You need to slow down, and understand how expensive modding truly is(i would know considering i have spent nearly 8k total, oh and yes i plan to do more lol). I would just patiently wait and buy parts needed for the swap. Do it right the first time, not right the 4th time. dont take any of this the wrong way, just making sure you dont lose money and make mistakes, we have all done it once the mod bug hits.
also to answer the flash question, they cannot see what you have done, only how many times the ecu has been flashed, its only a counter, not some airplane blackbox loggin your every move.
also to answer the flash question, they cannot see what you have done, only how many times the ecu has been flashed, its only a counter, not some airplane blackbox loggin your every move.
Last edited by AntiBlitz; Dec 17, 2011 at 05:28 AM.
First, you mention picking up a hfc and a wideband in your last post. At that point, there would be no more need to ask us if it were safely rich or lean. You could watch the gauge yourself and determine if it was safe enough for you, at which point you could decide to leave the car as-is or go in for a tune or just take it back off for the time-being.
Also, I think that you are already underestimating the dramatic increase that a good tune can make to the car. So many people want to jump into the turbo-swap because they want to say they have more power, but they don't really have much idea what the car is capable of otherwise. I will tell you that about 50% of the people I talk to who daily drive their RA have decided against the turbo swap idea after having the car bolted and properly tuned on the stock RA turbo.
The tune will absolutely make the difference on this car and I'd honestly recommend buying the HFC and wideband and then taking that money for the turbo swap and having the car tuned by a respectable tuner who has EXPERIENCE with the SS-T. Once the car is running right, you may be surprised at just how much it changes once all of your new parts are accounted and compensated for. Then start saving for the turbo swap, if you still think you need it.
You can throw part-after-part onto the car, but the changes will all be minimal without proper tuning. Most of the time when adding bolt-ons you will use your "butt dyno" to try and convince yourself that the car made power and it was worth the money, when the biggest change was that the car got louder. I'm not trying to misjudge you or anyone else's perception of what their car can do, but at this point, you still have the #1 power RESTRICTION on your car, the stock catalyst. Switching from the stock cat to a test-pipe was probably the only blatantly obvious bolt-on upgrade I've ever felt in the car. The biggest most beneficial upgrade that anyone ever does to the car is the tune, I promise you. I suggest you look into tuning the car sooner, rather than later, otherwise you're driving around in a car, hoping that it's safe for now, until you have more money to change it further and then hopefully make it safe after that.
okay. im going to contact my dealership in a few days and ask them how strict they are with modding and warranty restrictions, etc. and try to get whatever they say in writing.
as for getting a proper tune, i really want to figure out how bad it is for my warranty if i do get one.
for now ill think i will get the hfc and wideband, then if i feel tuning is ok ill spend the rest of the money on that. and this isnt me not listening lol, i do want a tune, believe me i know you guys know what you are talking about. im just trying to watch where i step.
as for running rich/lean, if i do end up running rich or lean is a tune the only way to fix that?
as for getting a proper tune, i really want to figure out how bad it is for my warranty if i do get one.
for now ill think i will get the hfc and wideband, then if i feel tuning is ok ill spend the rest of the money on that. and this isnt me not listening lol, i do want a tune, believe me i know you guys know what you are talking about. im just trying to watch where i step.
as for running rich/lean, if i do end up running rich or lean is a tune the only way to fix that?
I have to agree. It sounds like you just keep trying to nickel-and-dime your way into more power while spending as little as possible. I can totally understand that, but I don't think you fully realize the situation you're in.
First, you mention picking up a hfc and a wideband in your last post. At that point, there would be no more need to ask us if it were safely rich or lean. You could watch the gauge yourself and determine if it was safe enough for you, at which point you could decide to leave the car as-is or go in for a tune or just take it back off for the time-being.
Also, I think that you are already underestimating the dramatic increase that a good tune can make to the car. So many people want to jump into the turbo-swap because they want to say they have more power, but they don't really have much idea what the car is capable of otherwise. I will tell you that about 50% of the people I talk to who daily drive their RA have decided against the turbo swap idea after having the car bolted and properly tuned on the stock RA turbo.
The tune will absolutely make the difference on this car and I'd honestly recommend buying the HFC and wideband and then taking that money for the turbo swap and having the car tuned by a respectable tuner who has EXPERIENCE with the SS-T. Once the car is running right, you may be surprised at just how much it changes once all of your new parts are accounted and compensated for. Then start saving for the turbo swap, if you still think you need it.
You can throw part-after-part onto the car, but the changes will all be minimal without proper tuning. Most of the time when adding bolt-ons you will use your "butt dyno" to try and convince yourself that the car made power and it was worth the money, when the biggest change was that the car got louder. I'm not trying to misjudge you or anyone else's perception of what their car can do, but at this point, you still have the #1 power RESTRICTION on your car, the stock catalyst. Switching from the stock cat to a test-pipe was probably the only blatantly obvious bolt-on upgrade I've ever felt in the car. The biggest most beneficial upgrade that anyone ever does to the car is the tune, I promise you. I suggest you look into tuning the car sooner, rather than later, otherwise you're driving around in a car, hoping that it's safe for now, until you have more money to change it further and then hopefully make it safe after that.
First, you mention picking up a hfc and a wideband in your last post. At that point, there would be no more need to ask us if it were safely rich or lean. You could watch the gauge yourself and determine if it was safe enough for you, at which point you could decide to leave the car as-is or go in for a tune or just take it back off for the time-being.
Also, I think that you are already underestimating the dramatic increase that a good tune can make to the car. So many people want to jump into the turbo-swap because they want to say they have more power, but they don't really have much idea what the car is capable of otherwise. I will tell you that about 50% of the people I talk to who daily drive their RA have decided against the turbo swap idea after having the car bolted and properly tuned on the stock RA turbo.
The tune will absolutely make the difference on this car and I'd honestly recommend buying the HFC and wideband and then taking that money for the turbo swap and having the car tuned by a respectable tuner who has EXPERIENCE with the SS-T. Once the car is running right, you may be surprised at just how much it changes once all of your new parts are accounted and compensated for. Then start saving for the turbo swap, if you still think you need it.
You can throw part-after-part onto the car, but the changes will all be minimal without proper tuning. Most of the time when adding bolt-ons you will use your "butt dyno" to try and convince yourself that the car made power and it was worth the money, when the biggest change was that the car got louder. I'm not trying to misjudge you or anyone else's perception of what their car can do, but at this point, you still have the #1 power RESTRICTION on your car, the stock catalyst. Switching from the stock cat to a test-pipe was probably the only blatantly obvious bolt-on upgrade I've ever felt in the car. The biggest most beneficial upgrade that anyone ever does to the car is the tune, I promise you. I suggest you look into tuning the car sooner, rather than later, otherwise you're driving around in a car, hoping that it's safe for now, until you have more money to change it further and then hopefully make it safe after that.
You can't have everything in life. You want instant bolt-on BIG power, while still being under warranty. Sorry, but not going to happen. Take the weekend and do some soul searching, figure out what you really want. It's quite apparent you are confused/tormented/misguided.
Don't waste your time asking the dealership for something in writing regarding modding the car. I have a friend like you who comes to me every week with plans to super/turbo/whatever charge his car; but then he asks me if the dealership will still warranty if something goes wrong
Despite what you may think, slapping on bolt-ons is not safe in the long run. Back in the day the ECU only had 'moderate' control, and you 'could' trick it with bolt-ons. They are far too advanced for this now, and self-correct;but this 'self-correction' WILL cause problems in other non-related parts of the car (I go through it on a weekly basis). For instance, that test pipe you want will cause you to hit a higher load cell, causing you to run rich. This will change your STFT & LTFT; might not seem like a big deal driving around, but wait until you are sitting at a long red-light and your idle starts stumbling (your mod is affecting an unrealted aspect of the car). Now conversely, you get the car properly tuned, and the ECU starts working with your mod instead of against it.
If you truly want a safe, BIG power car, you need to get the ECU to work WITH the mods, not in-spite of them.
Don't waste your time asking the dealership for something in writing regarding modding the car. I have a friend like you who comes to me every week with plans to super/turbo/whatever charge his car; but then he asks me if the dealership will still warranty if something goes wrong
Despite what you may think, slapping on bolt-ons is not safe in the long run. Back in the day the ECU only had 'moderate' control, and you 'could' trick it with bolt-ons. They are far too advanced for this now, and self-correct;but this 'self-correction' WILL cause problems in other non-related parts of the car (I go through it on a weekly basis). For instance, that test pipe you want will cause you to hit a higher load cell, causing you to run rich. This will change your STFT & LTFT; might not seem like a big deal driving around, but wait until you are sitting at a long red-light and your idle starts stumbling (your mod is affecting an unrealted aspect of the car). Now conversely, you get the car properly tuned, and the ECU starts working with your mod instead of against it.
If you truly want a safe, BIG power car, you need to get the ECU to work WITH the mods, not in-spite of them.
i thank you for the last paragraph lol
You can't have everything in life. You want instant bolt-on BIG power, while still being under warranty. Sorry, but not going to happen. Take the weekend and do some soul searching, figure out what you really want. It's quite apparent you are confused/tormented/misguided.
Don't waste your time asking the dealership for something in writing regarding modding the car. I have a friend like you who comes to me every week with plans to super/turbo/whatever charge his car; but then he asks me if the dealership will still warranty if something goes wrong
Despite what you may think, slapping on bolt-ons is not safe in the long run. Back in the day the ECU only had 'moderate' control, and you 'could' trick it with bolt-ons. They are far too advanced for this now, and self-correct;but this 'self-correction' WILL cause problems in other non-related parts of the car (I go through it on a weekly basis). For instance, that test pipe you want will cause you to hit a higher load cell, causing you to run rich. This will change your STFT & LTFT; might not seem like a big deal driving around, but wait until you are sitting at a long red-light and your idle starts stumbling (your mod is affecting an unrealted aspect of the car). Now conversely, you get the car properly tuned, and the ECU starts working with your mod instead of against it.
If you truly want a safe, BIG power car, you need to get the ECU to work WITH the mods, not in-spite of them.
Don't waste your time asking the dealership for something in writing regarding modding the car. I have a friend like you who comes to me every week with plans to super/turbo/whatever charge his car; but then he asks me if the dealership will still warranty if something goes wrong
Despite what you may think, slapping on bolt-ons is not safe in the long run. Back in the day the ECU only had 'moderate' control, and you 'could' trick it with bolt-ons. They are far too advanced for this now, and self-correct;but this 'self-correction' WILL cause problems in other non-related parts of the car (I go through it on a weekly basis). For instance, that test pipe you want will cause you to hit a higher load cell, causing you to run rich. This will change your STFT & LTFT; might not seem like a big deal driving around, but wait until you are sitting at a long red-light and your idle starts stumbling (your mod is affecting an unrealted aspect of the car). Now conversely, you get the car properly tuned, and the ECU starts working with your mod instead of against it.
If you truly want a safe, BIG power car, you need to get the ECU to work WITH the mods, not in-spite of them.
2. They have a strict process to go through with Mitsubishi. Mitsubishi ultimately makes the decision. There are things the dealer is REQUIRED to do before Mitsu will pay them out for a claim. Including taking picture f the cars engine bay, and checking the ECU.
3. They sure as hell wont put a damn thing in writing. If they did and Mitsubishi found out they did, they could be fined, or even be at risk of voiding their dealership agreement with Mitsubishi.
2. If you take the car in with the mods you have on it your asking for trouble. 3. And taking it in with the HFC is a sure-fire way to have issues as it is technically illegal.
4. If you need warranty work, you should remove all mods, and re-flash the car to stock.
5. If you break the car with mods, don't expect to be able to use the warranty to fix it. I see this way too much. "Oh, I blew up my motor because i over-boosted on a bad tune, I'll put it back to stock and make the dealer fix it." That's bull****. Pay to play. You **** it up, your responsible. Now if your radio messes up, then sure, take it in, cause your power mods didn't cause it. But as always, remove the mods first.
As of right now, if you brought that car to me with a blown motor and all that **** on it with no tune, I'd laugh in your face and deny a warranty claim too. Your less in warranty with what your doing and want to do than with JUST a tune.
Based on what I've read here, you need to remove all the crap from your car and do a lot more research before deciding what to do next. Your wasting money and being very unsafe with your car. And to top it off, with all the crap you've got on it you'd get walked by a guy with a JUST A FREE basemap. If your worried about the warranty stop modding. Or move to suspension mods and leave the damn motor alone. Its a lot cheaper to fix out-of-warranty suspension problems than out-of-warranty motor or trans problems.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 3
From: Baltimore, MD
The thing that's kept me from doing this on my car is that from everything I've heard on these forums, switching from the stock cat to a HFC always makes the car somewhat louder, and I really don't want any more noise. Does anyone know of a HFC that's just as quiet as the stock cat? If so, I've got my credit card out now!
beautifully said guys, well done i absolutely applaud the last few posts! sstevojr and chi-town well done!
@Slee with the HFC when the car is in the revving down state your going to get alot of popping, and sputtering, the car will sound much louder, as it is quite unrestricted in comparison to the oem cat, which is like driving around with a rag in your exhaust.
really need to make that choice, warranty or powah!!!! hell with the warranty i want POWAH!!!! SAY IT WITH ME POOOOWWAHHHH!!!
@Slee with the HFC when the car is in the revving down state your going to get alot of popping, and sputtering, the car will sound much louder, as it is quite unrestricted in comparison to the oem cat, which is like driving around with a rag in your exhaust.
really need to make that choice, warranty or powah!!!! hell with the warranty i want POWAH!!!! SAY IT WITH ME POOOOWWAHHHH!!!
so if i wanted to complete my turboback exhaust, would a UR downpipe and hfc be all the parts necessary? i keep seeing the evo x o2 downpipes but they dont make any for the ralliarts i believe 
Correct. The only options we have are the short downpipes that work for the Ralliart and EvoX, or there is the divorced-o2 style long downpipe from UR, that's about it.
Someone should experiment and send the RA o2 housing out for a complete port job. Then pair it with the short dp of choice and check the results. I'd bet for the low, low cost the results might be interesting.