RRM Springs.
Aug 8, 2009, 08:05 AM
#197
Dropping form 1 inch to 1.8 inch on a car will not throw off the alignment unless the guy doesnt know what he is doing a takes off the control arms bolts or something.... lol....
your RA will just lower its center of gravity... and camber just a bit...
reason why i can say this is because when it time to do a suspension replacement you just replace all the stunts and in my years of working a doing suspension tuning i have yet to see a alignment thats is required by its service book for any cars...
unless you drive a lambo or some super high end car... lol
i hope that helps
your RA will just lower its center of gravity... and camber just a bit...
reason why i can say this is because when it time to do a suspension replacement you just replace all the stunts and in my years of working a doing suspension tuning i have yet to see a alignment thats is required by its service book for any cars...
unless you drive a lambo or some super high end car... lol
i hope that helps
This is TOTALLY wrong.
You must re-align the car after changing the ride height. Anytime you lower the car the camber and toe will be changed.
< years of suspension tuning (for racing), sponsored by suspension company and shop.
With struts (spring goes over the strut), you technically have a "coil-over", just not adjustable settings or height.
And coil-overs are not the immediate go do. The market is flooded with cheap coil-overs that have crappy valving, crappy construction, and crappy handling. But if you are swayed by how "cool" coil-over are to have...then have at them.
A proper coil-over will be more expensive, and really need a good setup for racing or AX (corner balance, spring rates, valving adjustments).
Here are a bunch of great threads to learn about suspensions:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-links.html
Last edited by Smike; Aug 8, 2009 at 08:22 AM.
Aug 8, 2009, 11:49 AM
#199
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who said that someone who knows what they are talking about could post here? GET OUT! 
Seriously, though. I am curious about the spring rates as well, and anyone who says that they aren't... well, I know a group of 16-18 year old "tuners" that you might want to hang out with.
For me, the spring rate has less to do with bottoming out, and more to do with ride harshness. The stock springs are pretty soft, but I don't want to upgrade to springs that would jar a person's fillings out. Unlike some people on these boards, I have no delusions: My car is a daily driver first. If I wanted to play boy racer, I would have kept my WRX and used the $5k extra I spent on the Ralliart for mods. That being said, I wouldn't mind having a car that handles extremely well.
For me, in terms of handling, I'll be getting sway bars long before I get springs. And as SmikeEvo said (implied), a good set of struts + springs are good enough. Coilovers are more than most people need or are going to take advantage of anyway.
Seriously, though. I am curious about the spring rates as well, and anyone who says that they aren't... well, I know a group of 16-18 year old "tuners" that you might want to hang out with.
For me, the spring rate has less to do with bottoming out, and more to do with ride harshness. The stock springs are pretty soft, but I don't want to upgrade to springs that would jar a person's fillings out. Unlike some people on these boards, I have no delusions: My car is a daily driver first. If I wanted to play boy racer, I would have kept my WRX and used the $5k extra I spent on the Ralliart for mods. That being said, I wouldn't mind having a car that handles extremely well.
For me, in terms of handling, I'll be getting sway bars long before I get springs. And as SmikeEvo said (implied), a good set of struts + springs are good enough. Coilovers are more than most people need or are going to take advantage of anyway.
I do what I can.
Aug 8, 2009, 03:59 PM
#201
This is TOTALLY wrong.
You must re-align the car after changing the ride height. Anytime you lower the car the camber and toe will be changed.
< years of suspension tuning (for racing), sponsored by suspension company and shop.
I would like to see the spring rates. But a proper spring, with the proper rates with work with your struts. RRM does put in a lot of research into their products. So I lean towards proper springs here.
With struts (spring goes over the strut), you technically have a "coil-over", just not adjustable settings or height.
And coil-overs are not the immediate go do. The market is flooded with cheap coil-overs that have crappy valving, crappy construction, and crappy handling. But if you are swayed by how "cool" coil-over are to have...then have at them.
A proper coil-over will be more expensive, and really need a good setup for racing or AX (corner balance, spring rates, valving adjustments).
Here are a bunch of great threads to learn about suspensions:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-links.html
thanks for the info
Aug 10, 2009, 09:58 PM
#206
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ramstein Ab
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is TOTALLY wrong.
You must re-align the car after changing the ride height. Anytime you lower the car the camber and toe will be changed.
< years of suspension tuning (for racing), sponsored by suspension company and shop.
I would like to see the spring rates. But a proper spring, with the proper rates with work with your struts. RRM does put in a lot of research into their products. So I lean towards proper springs here.
With struts (spring goes over the strut), you technically have a "coil-over", just not adjustable settings or height.
And coil-overs are not the immediate go do. The market is flooded with cheap coil-overs that have crappy valving, crappy construction, and crappy handling. But if you are swayed by how "cool" coil-over are to have...then have at them.
A proper coil-over will be more expensive, and really need a good setup for racing or AX (corner balance, spring rates, valving adjustments).
Here are a bunch of great threads to learn about suspensions:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-links.html
Or do they have to have the specs. on an 09RA alignment?
thanks
Aug 11, 2009, 07:12 AM
#208
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ramstein Ab
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont wanna track the car, lol it's just my DD and When I put the springs on I just wanna do it the right way..
so what do you suggest?
Aug 11, 2009, 08:19 AM
#209
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: So.Cal.
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you do need some negative camber.
i would think there is no reason for any toe-in.
when i have mine done , i am going to request 1/2 degree negative camber..
.........with zero toe.
then , start "reading" the tires to see how they wear.
i would think there is no reason for any toe-in.
when i have mine done , i am going to request 1/2 degree negative camber..
.........with zero toe.
then , start "reading" the tires to see how they wear.
Aug 11, 2009, 08:23 AM
#210
I believe, without my 09 GTS Service Manual in front of me, you have camber bolts just like the CT9A.
So, I would run the -1 front camber bolt selection. Once lowered the true camber will be slightly more than that. In example, -1 bolt selected = -1.5 true camber (what the machine reads).
In the rear, again, without my book - I believe its a elliptical camber bolt (more room for adjustments), I would run -0.5 to -1 camber.
Zero the toe out (f and r) and zero thrust angle.
So, I would run the -1 front camber bolt selection. Once lowered the true camber will be slightly more than that. In example, -1 bolt selected = -1.5 true camber (what the machine reads).
In the rear, again, without my book - I believe its a elliptical camber bolt (more room for adjustments), I would run -0.5 to -1 camber.
Zero the toe out (f and r) and zero thrust angle.