Fuego

iTrader: (9)

They are actually easy to adjust
Here are to pictures on how they look, how long they go, and comparing them to the stock ones.

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

Here are the pictures of them on my car. Again they are easy to install.
1. remove tires
2. Use a 17mm socket and take the one closest to you off first.
3. Then remove the ones in the in the back. Your going to need a 17mm wratchet and a 17mm socket to remove it. I used a screw driver and hammer to tap out it out.
4. Install the one further from you. I used a screw driver to help align the holes. (use a little blue loctite)
5. Install the one closest to you. (use a little blue loctite)
6. Make sure everything is tight.
7. Install tires and take a short drive and recheck everything.

Took about 20mins each side with my son helping me(which means it takes longer, lol)

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i'm not terribly heart broken over the way they must be adjusted. It would just be that little bit more awesome if they adjusted as easily as tie rod ends is all

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Fuego for taking one for the team
I was pretty confident they would work. What's your opinion on the quality? (The welds look pretty decent from your pictures.)
After aligning the rear did you have a decent amount of thread left inside the arm?

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

Well today is the first day I got to drive around. They feel great. i noticed a difference during my drive this morning. Everything felt more stable and it's not pulling to the right, which i was happy about. Plenty of thread left. I aligned it as with the stock ones and will get an allignment later this week when I get the other parts and will update as each of them come in.

robyn402

iTrader: (3)

so how do you go about lubricating the bushings?

Now we just need a link to the products

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

1. Mobil 1 Synth Grease is used on the bushings and the threads.
2. You don't having to take out the bushings to grease it.
3. You can use a spray lubricant or you can load up the little space on the sides with grease.
4. Hundreds of SRT4's use them and no grease issues so far.
5. Mobil grease is very hard to wash away where it's at.
6. I don't every remember greasing the OEM ones.
7. Please PM for more product information. They are getting information on becoming a vendor here. So just pm me for info . I actually might be working with Ron on this.
8. If a grease nipple is something you really want, I'm sure he can add it.

Front End Links have arrived!!!

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

1. Remove the tire.
2. Jack up the suspension a litte as shown in the picture. This will help remove and add the end links easier.
3. You need a hammer, 14mm wrench, socket, and a allen key(not sure what size).
4. Remove end link. I used the 14mm socket first to loosen the nut then I used a 14mm wrench and allen key to remove nut. now use the jack to raise the suspension if the end link don't come out easily with a hammer.
5. Install new endlink. Use a 1/2" wrench and a 9/16 socket. Again use jack to make install easier. Make sure both end links are the same length for install.
6. Put everything back on and enjoy!

I went for a small road trip and it felt really good. The response from the front on turns was better. I'm enjoying them.

They are 1/2" longer than OEM at it's shortest. I found this not to be a problem. Now the sway bar seems a little tighter which is why I'm getting a better response. Overall, I love it.

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

Once he gets the rear brace kit he will take measurements for me. He said he should get them this week. Also the toe links should arrive this week. I will continue to update eveyone as things come in. I will be getting alligned this week and going to the track on friday.

robyn402

iTrader: (3)

looking good, can't believe its taken this long to finally get these products

i was just curious about the lubrication personally i tend to over look it completely unless i have a grease nipple to pump it into lol

curious, i assume the tab on the front strut will be strong enuf to handle the stiffness

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

Hope I was able to answer your concerns about the lubrication.

As long as the tab integrity is still there, i don't think there should be an issue. If it's been damaged or bent some how then I would say you might have an issue.

Now i'm on Coilovers so i really don't see an issue. They get used with BC Coilovers all the time. i'll ask Ron how they do on a stock strut tomorrow. I sold mine and I think I deleted my pictures but If I remember right. I think they would work fine. I'm an aggressive driver so I will continue to update here. I hope the last part arrives tomorrow, so I can get the car to the shop for alignment which will go in the next day. Man I really want to hit the tracks friday.

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

No grease nipple like the Nicole/ Rahtid ones. These have to be unbolted and greased from the side, in Fuego's first picture you can see the slots to apply the grease.

Fuego

iTrader: (9)

True, you can always add a grease nipple if you decide you really want it also.
Remove the bushings, drill hole, and add nipple.

I might add grease to my 30K mile service. I don't track it much and it don't seem hard to do. Though I will keep an eye on it and if something comes up I will let you guys know first thing. It's mainly my DD and I do drive it hard.

Ron told me that he sold a few hundreds of these to SRT's and so far no issue. i signed up on the Caliber forum he sells them on and it gets really good reviews. Each camber arm weighs about 3.2lbs. The stock ones are about 4.4 lbs.

Rahtid

The car will feel more stable on street and a road course with the camber arms and coilovers

robyn402

iTrader: (3)

so now we've got an answer to front endlinks, rear endlinks were previously figured out, adjustable camber arms i guess all we need know is a roll center kit and we're all set?

i assume with these arms the whiteline camber bushings are now obsolete correct