Mitsu_1984

Just wondering what is everyone's favorite parts or product to fix camber front and back. I been searching all over but can't decide. I ordered a set of the RRM Grip springs (States 1.5 front and 1.4 rear lower) and I need to know which if any camber parts I need. Or recommendations. Thanks

Jay10Ralliart

iTrader: (4)

Depends on your wheel and tire size. More than likely with that tiny bit of a drop you wont need anything. Get an alignment though.

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

Front:

• With springs only your only two options are SPC or Eibach front camber bolts.
• With coilovers the top plate has built in camber adjustments.

Rear:

• Upper adjustable control arms (megan, hard race, whoosh/real tune, Rahtid)
• Lower Control arms by Hard race
• Rear offset bushings by whiteline

ApeIron2012

iTrader: (1)

I have follow-up questions:

I have the Eibach Pro kit and the general consensus around the forum is that you don’t need any aftermarket parts to correct the camber/toe. Correct?

What is it about the Ralliart’s OEM suspension that would allow for the slight adjustability without aftermarket parts?

For example, with the OEM set up, what would the technician be manually adjusting when correcting the camber/toe?

Is it a good idea to get aftermarket parts regardless or no?

With aftermarket parts, are we looking at increased reliability? Decreased weight? Better material than OEM?

There are several options for the back. How do these three solutions differ from each other?

Like, why did three independent solutions appear simultaneously for a seemingly similar problem? Price? Technical feasibility?

For example, I noticed that you got the upper adjustable control arms on your Ralliart. Why did you pick that solution over lower control arms or the rear offset bushings? Any trade-offs?

I honestly been researching this topic all weekend, got like three pages of notes and bamph… Neo just came out of the blue and summed it up for me.

This thread is super useful. It should be stickied. Thank you Neo for summing it up for us noobs.

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

The strut lower body where it bolts to the knuckle hasand oval shape hole so the strut body can be moved a little then tighten'ed up to correct camber specs.

The aftermarket bolts allow you to get a little more movement from those same holes.

Only buy it if you can not get your camber into factory specs ( or just buy tires more often)

The front aftermarket camber bolts are thinner then the stock bolts to allow more movement. I don't use them as i have front camber plates on my coilovers but I have not heard of anyone having issues with them breaking.

As far as the rear is concerned:
There was only 1 option in 2009 and that was the bushing replacement by whiteline. It requires a shop to press in the bushings to move the lower arm inward to correct neg camber.
Around 2010/2011 a female member (nicole i think was her name) in another forum which was made for the GTS/Ralliart in Colorado an offered as a group buy limited production part. She was not very easy to get a hold of ( i had tried over 5 times).A little later a company called realtune was making Dodge caliber srt-4 parts which is built on a similar chassis as the 08 lancer so it shares some components ..one being the rear upper control arm. Some members bought them and installed them as guinea pigs( me being one of them) and they worked perfect.
Then Hardrace and Megan upper arm models came out later. and just recently the lower arm from Hardrace.




Rathid (member who can get the Colorado made arms) and the realtune/whooshmotorsports arms are beefier round steel arms. the only drawback would be that the alignment shop guy will need to unbolt one side to turn the arm to adjust. both are almost identical but the rahtid have zerk fittings to re grease the poly pushing. the real tune has to be unbolted and regreased through slots in the bushings.

HardRace and Megan are almost he same except color and Hardrace offers there arms in rubber or polyurethane bushings. aluminum body, and the bolt setup allows camber adjustment while on the car.


If I was you I would get the Megan or Hardrace upper control arms. The adjustment bolts they use make adjusts easier.
If you want to be different , you can be the first one to install and post up pics of the Hardrace lower control arms installed.

ApeIron2012

iTrader: (1)

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar.

Give me more time to actually drive the car instead of doing homework.

My plan is to take the car into the suspension shop and see if they can correct the camber/toe on its own. If it can't be corrected for some reason, I think I would take up your advice and pick up the Hardrace part.

Thank you once again.