Front Camber Bolt and Alignment Question
Front Camber Bolt and Alignment Question
Will turning just the camber bolt to the more camber negative setting affect the other alignment settings like toe? I'm thinking of just putting the bolt setting to add more camber when running autoX and putting it back after the event to keep min the wear on DD tires. Current alignment specs shows only -1.8 front camber and 0 toe with the bolt set at the low camber setting.
Thanks
Thanks
yes changing camber will change toe. pretty sure the "low" camber setting i neg 1 degree and flipped opposite way is neg 2 degree. max camber on stock suspension isnt going to kill your tires as long as you get the toe on point. im at neg 3.6 upfront with no extreme signs of tire wear
As mentioned above, changing camber affects toe. When I get to the track I also need to adjust my tie-rod ends when I set my camber. I had the shop that did my alignment do the alignment for both my street and track camber settings, and tell me how many turns of the tie-rod ends I need to do.
I'm guessing you aren't on stock suspension? On stock suspension, -1.8 should only be possible with the camber bolt in it's high camber setting, not the low.
I'm guessing you aren't on stock suspension? On stock suspension, -1.8 should only be possible with the camber bolt in it's high camber setting, not the low.
Only suspension mod is Swift Sports springs which dropped the car and put camber to -1.8 at the -1 bolt setting. If I put it to the -2 setting I would probably get close to -3. Is this really going to mess the current 0 toe that much to negate the positive affect of more camber at the AX runs? How many turns do you have to make on the tie rod?
I don't know if it would be enough to negate the advantage of added camber, but the added toe-in will definitely not be a good thing.
My track camber is -3 and IIRC my street camber is -1.2 or so. I need 2 turns of each tie-rod end to bring back the toe to 0. So if you're adding 1 degree, 1 turn should be roughly what you need. You could give it 1.5 turns to be sure, and would get a little toe-out which would get you sharper turn-in for AX.
My track camber is -3 and IIRC my street camber is -1.2 or so. I need 2 turns of each tie-rod end to bring back the toe to 0. So if you're adding 1 degree, 1 turn should be roughly what you need. You could give it 1.5 turns to be sure, and would get a little toe-out which would get you sharper turn-in for AX.
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