triguy

iTrader: (1)

What alignment settings are EVO X owners running for the track and canyon runs? Not many posts on this topic so far. One X owner went to Cobb and got -2.5 camber front and back. Another suggested -2 in front and -1.5 in front.

I'm thinking about flipping the front camber bolt to see if I can hit -2.5 with 0 toe, and shoot for a tad more neg camber in the rear, say -1.8 to 2.0 and keep a smidge of toe-in.

I've got the Fastrax alignment tool and measured the stock camber settings at:
driver front -1.5, pass front -1.4, driver rear -1.4, pass rear -1.35.

I've had my X for less than 2 months and have been focusing on engine mods and will shift to suspension mods. I might do an occasional track weekend, not nearly as much as I did in my WRX. I'll probably stick to lowering springs, stiffer sway bars, and a performance alignment.

HB Speed

iTrader: (1)

Hey gary you are going to want as much camber in the front as you can get....

I have seen many schools of thought on the rear, some run -2 some run 0
I have a guy you can talk to about it he has aligned more race winning evos that just about anyone

i

triguy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Jon. Looking forward to a dynotune after New Year's.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

I run -3* up front and -2* rear. 0 toe up front -.04* rear. I've got camber plates though.

triguy

iTrader: (1)

Nice set up. How's the rear end feel at -2? More planted in sweepers?

The most negative camber I've read someone getting without camber plates up front is 2.5. Came across another person with -2.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

Depending on many things, Car weight -tire- suspension set up.
I suggest, go some reputable and race proven shop, and ask them about your specific car. And your needs.

A way you doing it here, will not give you a best solution for your problem.
The alignment should be a car specific, not an overall numbers since you have upgraded suspension components, so as different car weight from the factory etc.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

+1. I'm on VERY stiff coilovers (14kg/14kg), so -2 works for me, but it might not work for you. I have no issues rotating the car, it's basically point and shoot unless I am doing something dumb.

I was able to get -2.7 in the rear on stock components for anyone trying to max things out.

triguy

iTrader: (1)

That's the nice aspect of the Fastrax device. I can do alignments myself and experiment with settings and dial them in for how I like to drive and my car's set up. As a starting point, however, it's helpful know other people's alignments and suspension set ups since I'm new to Evos having driven a heavily modified WRX on the track periodically for the last six years.

I bought the Fasttrax device because shelling out money every time I wanted to make alignment adjustments got too costly. Been using it for last three years. The Subie auto-x drivers in San Diego use it and similar devices. It is a nice tool to have if you use an aggressive set up for the track and switch back to a milder set up for the street to minimize tire wear.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

The big issue between Evos and STi's is that when you increase the negative camber on the STi you put toe out (good for autox), but on the Evo, when you increase negative camber, you increase the toe in (bad!).

So... track day changes are a pain in the ***.

So I leave it alone all the time

STi2EvoX

Why would the toe change when changing camber?

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

the best idea to do at least 100 miles on track, and learn the car before you even think about change anything. How do you know where you want to go? What is your driving style, how the car will change and from where?
You might need a little bit more under steer then others, because your style, otr the opposite. You might need a neutral car . You might find yourself run faster then other with a "wrong" set up vs they they awesome one.
The handling is a slippery part of the race car. You need to know your car first ,and your needs to run faster.

You will be surprised how much you can drive out from the stock set up. Just with a little track time.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

You need to read up a bit if you feel the need to ask this question.

STi2EvoX

I am no noob and know a decent bit about suspension. My question was based on the fact that camber and toe are two independant adjustments. I'm guessing that because of the geometry of the suspension, when camber is increased that static toe is increased, but I was trying to get an in depth explanation as to why. Why on a subaru does toe out occur when increasing camber? Why on an evo is it the opposite? Even if that's the case, once the camber is set, toe can be moved back to where it needs to be so I don't see the problem. In any case, perhaps I could've illustrated better what I was asking, but that response was a little demeaning and very unhelpful.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

Camber adjustments ALWAYS change the toe on just about every vehicle.

Again you need to read more if this wasn't at the top of your mind when you think "toe changes with camber? Surely not!" (not being an ***, but just saying).

On the STI the end links/tie rods are on the other side of the strut (towards the front of the car), so when increasing camber, the toe goes out. Since the end links/tie rods are on the back side of the strut, when you increase camber the toe goes more inward.

Sometimes the toe can be put back into adjustment after the camber is set, but doing this at the track, without a measuring device is a pain in the butt -- although a LOT of people do it. Personally I just set the camber and adjust toe out for autocross (1 rev per side of to out, which honestly isn't much).

STi2EvoX

^I hear what you are saying, and I did know that static settings will change when the car is lowered, camber is increased, etc, I was just looking for a more in depth explanation of why and didn't phrase my question the way I should've. I meant to ask why the toe goes inward on the evo and outward on the sti, but the question came out too vague. In any case, thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize that the tie rods and end links were on opposite sides of the strut on these two cars (and I've owned both, so that's kinda sad ) You learn something new every day...