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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #16  
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From: Garden City, KS
Okay so they still covered you so far? Well thats good news then. I hope you get things worked out. I would contact the seller and ask him what he can do to help you out and why he was not honest in the presentation of the car.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jonhix09RA
well there was a crack in the exhaust manifold that the dealer found,,,and repaired. Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the hose that contains the boost pill and the boost pill itself..I want to revert back to stock ASAP and the parts people didnt know wtf i was talking about. im weary of getting a tune...because if i get it then something bad happens my warranty is shot again. Ill check over all the IC piping more tonite...it looks like it might be slipping on the one that goes to the IC. Also if this means anything...the car pulls a little bit harder in automatic mode in normal...wierd...but not hard at all...it doesnt even pull in manual mode...just spools up and blows off when i left off gas...no boost is felt.
The Mitsubishi part number for the harness(or hose as you call it) that holds the boost pill is # 1632A300. I'm not sure if the stock boost pill comes with it, because I haven't had the need to install it and flash back to the factory tune since I bought the thing. As a result, I haven't checked the rubber hose on the new harness to see if the boost pill is in there or not. If it's not, I still have my OEM boost pill that I removed when I installed the GST upgraded boost pill, so I can always shove it into the new harness I bought if I need to flash back to stock for some reason.

Last edited by Slee256; Sep 16, 2010 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:17 PM
  #18  
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From: Garden City, KS
Originally Posted by Slee256
The Mitsubishi part number for the harness(or hose as you call it) that holds the boost pill is # 1632A300. I'm not sure if the stock boost pill comes with it, because I haven't had the need to install it and flash back to stock since I bought the thing. As a result, I haven't checked the rubber hose on the new harness to see if the boost pill is in there or not. If it's not, I still have my OEM boost pill that I removed when I installed the GST upgraded boost pill, so I can always shove it into the new harness I bought if I need to flash back to stock for some reason.

Thanks for posting this I actually want to do this if I have to switch back for winter. How much was the hose?
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by S2K2EVO
Thanks for posting this I actually want to do this if I have to switch back for winter. How much was the hose?
My receipt is out in the car and it's raining here right now, but I know not more than $20.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:03 PM
  #20  
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it feels like the turbo/exhaust is getting WAY too hot too..it starts to spool up at about 2800...is this normal? Im installing a boost gauge and EGT gauge sometime this weekend so i can monitor it better as well...any ideas as to why it might be getting too hott? again im not for sure...but thats just what it seems like...i can feel hot air coming into the car down on the right side of the accelerator pedal.....
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jonhix09RA
it feels like the turbo/exhaust is getting WAY too hot too..it starts to spool up at about 2800...is this normal? Im installing a boost gauge and EGT gauge sometime this weekend so i can monitor it better as well...any ideas as to why it might be getting too hott? again im not for sure...but thats just what it seems like...i can feel hot air coming into the car down on the right side of the accelerator pedal.....
How can you say it's too hot? Did you log something?
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by zx-319
How can you say it's too hot? Did you log something?
I think he's basing that on the fact that he feels the heat from the turbo coming into the car's cabin down near his feet. Maybe the previous owner removed some of the vehicle's heat shielding???
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:36 PM
  #23  
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I havent logged anything yet...im just basing it from what im feeling. Little background info...the old turbo i had in it was giving some boost...but not much...until all of the sudden it stopped...and started doing what it is now...mitsu replaced the turbo and same thing is happening...im going to try to find a local shop to run a boost test over the weekend and I will install my gauges and try to narrow down the problem...anymore ideas? I want to do all that I can over the weekend to get the car at least running correctly.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:31 PM
  #24  
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Take it back to the dealer and say something is still not right. Go for a drive with them and show them what you mean. Maybe they forgot to connect a hose or something when they fitted the new turbo.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jonhix09RA
it feels like the turbo/exhaust is getting WAY too hot too..it starts to spool up at about 2800...is this normal? Im installing a boost gauge and EGT gauge sometime this weekend so i can monitor it better as well...any ideas as to why it might be getting too hott? again im not for sure...but thats just what it seems like...i can feel hot air coming into the car down on the right side of the accelerator pedal.....
on my 2010 RA sportback the boost ~starts~ coming on closer to 2500RPM
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 12:18 PM
  #26  
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if the cat converter is plugged (internal failure of the substrate) - it would do what you describe - very hot at your feet (above the cat) and little to no performance (turbo can't spool)...

With the car idling - plug the exhaust pipe with your foot (as best you can) and see if the engine quickly dies. It should sputter maybe a little if the cat and exhaust system is free from obstruction.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 12:36 PM
  #27  
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okay...so there was some IC piping i couldnt see very well with the bumper on so i pulled it off....lone behold there was a clamp off...tightened the clamp back on and voila...wierd the dealership didnt even check that...reason i knwo is because there was a stray headlight bulb down in there...worthless dealership. I bet that was the problem in the first place. At least I got a new turbo out of the deal
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 01:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jonhix09RA
okay...so there was some IC piping i couldnt see very well with the bumper on so i pulled it off....lone behold there was a clamp off...tightened the clamp back on and voila...wierd the dealership didnt even check that...reason i knwo is because there was a stray headlight bulb down in there...worthless dealership. I bet that was the problem in the first place. At least I got a new turbo out of the deal

perhaps, but your car did have the evo x setup on it, and now it doesnt.. so you did win/lose in the situation i guess.

Clearly the previous owner took as good care of it as he did when he was modding it, which wasnt done very well.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #29  
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Quick question regarding over boost, which i was reading earlier. What exactly "limp mode". How would one know if they are in "limp mode"? Does a warning light appear on the dash?

I have WOT and not shifted in time. My car basically stopped accelerating until i switched gears. I think i hit the rev limiter. Sometimes in sport AUTO mode ill floor it WOT and it hits the rev limiter. Shouldnt the computer shift for me??? Remember im in S-AUTO mode.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ArtofRalli
Quick question regarding over boost, which i was reading earlier. What exactly "limp mode". How would one know if they are in "limp mode"? Does a warning light appear on the dash?

I have WOT and not shifted in time. My car basically stopped accelerating until i switched gears. I think i hit the rev limiter. Sometimes in sport AUTO mode ill floor it WOT and it hits the rev limiter. Shouldnt the computer shift for me??? Remember im in S-AUTO mode.
You will know instantly when you go into limp mode. You will get a big triangle on the dash screen. You will lose all power and be limited to something crazy like 5% throttle, 20mph and only 1,3,5 gears. I have had it happen to me 4 times and can say that you did not have it. I had to turn off the car for about 10-15 seconds for the limp mode to clear itself so the car could be driven normally again.

I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong please) that you hit the rev limiter (it's around 6,800rpm). Not the greatest thing for the longevity of your car but not the worst thing you can do either. I haven't had an issue with my car shifting in time at WOT but you would think the ECU/TCU combo is smart enough to figure it out.
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