petro

So here's the thing: I currently have a full 3" turboback and am running Cobb Stage 2 93.

1) I just bought a UR FMIC and UICP/LICP. People from Cobb told me that I shouldn't run that tune with that mod. Do you have any thoughts on that?

2) I want to upgrade my BOV and perhaps a boost pill as well, but there aren't many options with respect to tuners here. So if I want to E-tune as an option, do I install these parts, log my car and send the data to a tuner? Is that how it works? A tuner at AMS told me that I don't need a wideband for an E-tune, which just makes me think he will just be cautious when he tunes it. I wish I had access to a solid tuner and am getting a little frustrated, as I want to get the most out of my mods. Regardless, I just want to thank you for the thread, as I refer to it often.

Jasoob

You can always get a boost gauge/wideband installed and see how the car is doing. Your proposed mods and that stage 2 may cause the car to run way too lean/rich.

There's always the e-tune option with AMS (very easy with the AccessPort).

Exyia

iTrader: (6)

1) correct me if I'm wrong, but stage 2 is pretty much full bolt-ons (including exhaust) right?

if so, turbo's are powered by exhaust gases - you would be running a tune expecting different turbo response/output, which can lead to problems. I do not recommend it

2) E-tunes are getting more popular as people don't want to "settle" on what their local shop's capabilities (or lack of)

the only real difference with e-tunes is you do the pulls/logging and flashing yourself. after the data is logged to a spreadsheet, you simply email it. tuner makes changes and emails you a new map to flash. you flash yourself in person

remember it's all software. My tuner (Eric@SSP) is usually doing 2-3 e-tunes every week along with his normal routine. He tunes the exact same as if in person, but in the comfort of his office rather than in the car. No different really

If you want the most from your mods though, I can't imagine doing that without a wideband with output to datalog. I recommend AEM for it's simplicity, but there are other options out there

petro

Thanks for taking the time. I definately would like to log without guages, so I'm exploring my options with respect to that. I was looking into the Innovative OT-2 wideband, as it allows for logging various things (a/f, boost etc.) on your iPhone. However, I have read that wi-fi can be problematic. For accurate etuning would you recommend I get a boost guage as well, or would a wideband and my Cobb AP be sufficient?

Exyia

iTrader: (6)

you NEED a wideband that has a serial output that Evoscan will support. it doesn't matter what "logging" features the gauge claims to come with - the only log you (or your tuner) care about is the one output by Evoscan

Evoscan can log practically everything but AFR - the car didn't come with one. So all that's missing from having a complete datalog is AFR input coming from your AFR gauge.

so rest of the gauges (like boost) are mostly for looks. I prefer the AEM UEGO (digital) wideband because it's pretty simple to setup and use

madrimer

Alright so i'm still fairly new to doing modifications on my Ralliart, I've done and probably only going to do simple bolt-ons because the car only has 14k miles on it and I only want to do certain things to cut down on the risk of losing my warranty, obviously. I've only done the following mods myself: Evo BOV to replace the plastic one, gutted my air box and put a k&n filter in, changed the upper I/C pipe, and today I upgraded my intercooler. Like I said, very simple mods, no tuning or anything, maybe after the warranty runs out. Everything was running smoothly until today when I put the different intercooler on. Installation went great, everything fitted fine, and I did everything right. Only now when I start my car, there's a very brief, low noise coming from somewhere, that was there before. I can also feel it a little in the cabin when my foot is on the brake pedal when I start the car. I thought it might have been the upper IC pipe rattling since it's not bolted on to the body like the stock one, but when I opened my hood and had someone else start it, the pipe didn't rattle and I couldn't hear the noise or anything out of the ordinary, only in the cabin. It seems to be coming from way under the dash.
It's not like I had been driving the car for a long time after installing the IC and then the noise came, it happened the very first time I started my car after installing it today. Not sure what it could be since I just changed an intercooler... If anyone could tell me what this might be or knows someone who can that'd be great. I guess I just want to make sure it's not affecting the transmission or any other serious component that it could hurt. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
madrimer

AvenGerMK

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I had the same thing madrimer. I replaced my uicp (upper inter cooler piping) with the ultimate racing set. It fit so snug and close that the first time I ran it my boost blew the hose off lol. Basically it could be a few different reasons why it rattles. The metal piping is touching something when the engine starts. Obviously. However when adding new parts there's going to be new noises. Either get used to them or put the old parts on. Nothing serious is going to happen. Like I said I have it too. My noise comes from it bumping my new strut bar and my bov

ORNGPEEL2.0

iTrader: (2)

Ok so iv read through all the pages and have done some basic research on my 11 ra and mod swaps including talking to the dealership and as I was top " if it's a Mitsubishi part " the warranty is always good! So I simply plan to do an oem Evo swap on my fmic licp uicp all at one time I'm ready to buy , but here is the question , like I said I Hve the 2011 ra does that mean I need to do a swap out w a 2011 Evo or does it matter if it's an 09 or 10 model?

Struc

iTrader: (11)

There is no 09 Evo, but 08, 10, 11, 12 - you're all good there.

ORNGPEEL2.0

iTrader: (2)

Awesomeness thx for the clairification on the year

petro

This thread has been so super helpful, so I thought I'd ask this question here. As mentioned, I have full TBE and am running Cobb stage 2. This weekend I installed an AMS BOV and an UR intercooler w/upper & lower piping. Post install, the car feels a tad less responsive and the shifts are not nearly as smooth. Is this in my head..especially with respect to the shifting? I'm scheduled for my wideband tomorrow and a tune on Sunday.

Thanks.

Scottishsamurai

First of all nice write up, but I want to get something straight (Mostly because I keep hearing it one way or another). Ok by what your saying if I upgrade any part of the intercooler piping, no tune is needed; because it is just making what the car does already just better at it?

mattnshell

well you always here of people adding on a bov but is there any real benefit since it might cause the ecu to think there is a problem?

mattnshell

look up Magnusn Moss Act. a manufacture cant void your warranty for adding on after market parts or accessories. they have to prove that the after market part caused the problem before they can say your warranty is voided.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

Sarcido

This post is probably by for the most information I have ever read in one area.
This forum is awesome.
I now know exactly what path I'm going to take when starting my mods.
I will now start shopping for a complete cooling system.
Thank you everyone for all the information provided.