Hi everyone,

Finally I bit the bullet and let the mod bug start properly and bought the UR upgrade kit, ams boost pill(how small is this f***** honestly, AFR and turbo-smart bov.

Anyways, I called in some mates because I'm hopeless when it comes to anything mechanical but hell the only way you learn is by ripping s*** apart right?

Keep in mind we started this at 6.30pm which was a fail in itself and we got to 12.30pm and called it a night, then i find out both blokes are away for our labour day weekend which is mega fail because i wanna do some logging with the intercooler on lol but i would get smashed by highway patrol for having the front bumper off and this weekend is the weekend I would get caught.


Anyways Here are some pictures .


Clearly the piping doesn't match up in the below photo but you get the idea


Starting the Night of well, those wheels ramps were useless/ancient


Reinforcement Bar has been removed which took alot of time


This way way tricky, we didn't remove the battery which made life difficult and a stupid torque ratchet thing broke after like a day of purchase, definately don't buy cheap s*** for this job lol


Puny size of the stock cooler, for a 40k car(aud) i expect more but oh well


This will add 200hp and if you put the sticker on, you'll gain a further 100hp to this beast :P



The intercooler is a absolute ***** to put on, perhaps its the crappy jacking attempt but also it was so hard to mate the chassis, bracket and support beam from the intercooler and screw in that literally took 2 hours and some sticky tape to keep things steady until we could screw the bastard in


Straya f*** yer :P, 12.30 and she's ready for boost test



Took her for a test drive, the first spool and i heard a large bang and i thought wow i wished that was the bov but didnt have boost at all, turns out my Egyptian friend didn't even tighten the charge pipe to the intercooler, which would explain why i had practically 0 power, felt like a yaris.



After fixing that issue up, i went for another lash around the neighbourhood and everything felt fine although a bit less powerful than i expected which may have been me ***** footing it/atmospheric release


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfm1hGiH9II

One of my concerns however is the intercooler piping is touching what appears to be the sst fluid cable, this didn't happen before however the licp is lacking the support bracket that the oem pipe did, it doesn't physically worry me because of how tight the piping is secured but i didn't want to burn a hole through that, I'll take a picture when i get home.

Can anyone comment on their install and what provisions were taken for the intercooler swap, particularly if you have a Ultimate racing setup.

The intercooler itself doesn't fit on the bracket that connects to the chassis that also supported the old intercooler from the bottom and connected to the front bar ....is it needed???

Also they talk about bending a pipe on the reinforcement bar for a sensor that I'm assuming is a horn support but the diagram is very blurry on the instruction manual and what do the two foam pieces with double sided tape do ontop of the intercooler.

I'll clean this thread up with pictures and more detail so if it doesn't make a whole lot of sense I'll endeavour to fix that.

Thanks guys

 

One of my concerns however is the intercooler piping is touching what appears to be the sst fluid cable, this didn't happen before however the licp is lacking the support bracket that the oem pipe did. It doesn't physically worry me because of how tight the piping is secured however i didn't want to burn a hole through that, I'll take a picture when i get home to explain it better.

Can anyone comment on their install and what provisions were taken for the intercooler swap, particularly if you have a Ultimate racing setup.

The intercooler itself doesn't fit on the bracket that connects to the chassis that also supported the old intercooler from the bottom and connected to the front bar ....is it needed???

Also they talk about bending a pipe on the reinforcement bar for a sensor that I'm assuming is a horn support but the diagram is very blurry on the instruction manual and what do the two foam pieces with double sided tape do ontop of the intercooler.

I'll clean this thread up with pictures and more detail so if it doesn't make a whole lot of sense I'll endeavour to fix that.

Thanks guys

 

haha! Good write up!

I did the evo X FMIC so it all bolted up...

I would worry about chaffing (rubbing through hose (or whichever component that is 'softer' )). Figure a better way to change routing or at the least put a rubber chaff pad between them and afix it clamps or zip-ties...

I would not expect ***-ometer results from the FMIC and BOV but 'consistantly good performance' on hot days or on those back-to-back runs when that bitty FMIC was heat-soaked

 

The reinforcement bar didnt fit over the ic with the ic spacer bracket to the chassis so ive removed the right hand side bracket to make room. now when i match it up their is a gap of no more than 30mm either side of the car so can i bolt it up and torque the bolts to fit?

Im going to work on the car in the net littlw while i need some help lol

i should also state its to my understanding the reinforcement bar is bigget for our complied cars compared to usdm.

 

so you are saying there is now a 30mm gap between the components? Should be good. Standard aircraft maintenance calls for a credit card width minimum...

 

Alright the reinforcement bar was all sorted and everything was good bar a leak caused by my installation .

I do have one question though, the silicon coupler that connects from my throttle body to the licp pipe is slightly bent in order for it to mate up, will it matter at all or should i correct it asap? I just don't want to wreck the coupler because of my laziness.

Based on evoscan I'm hitting very close if not just over 19.5 PSI when full boosting.


Thankyou

 

nice work mate. Going by ur Alias it sounds like ur a parramatta eels fan?
If i was u i would make sure everything is fitted properly, u wouldn't want to be going WOT at full boost and one of the pipes fly off
19.5 PSI.. i assume ur still on stock pill?

 

Yep eels fan lol. I got the boost pill but I wanna install a wideband before putting it in to know where I'm at .

It's not that it would come off now it's more along the lines of will the compression of the hose cause problems with boost flow and put pressure on something expensive that I don't want to break

 

hey parralegend

I noticed on pictures of the UR Intercooler it doesn't come with the mounting pins for the stock IC hangers. I guess this wasn't a problem for you, but how does the UR IC stay in place?

 

If I understand correctly, you're still on the stock Ralliart turbo correct? This is a 4" core FMIC and way to large for the RA turbo. It's going to reduce your boost pressure. You need at least to go with a CBRD Rad Lite to make this work. You would have made more power with a EvoX FMIC.

 

Held in with two bolts on either side down the bottom of the intercooler and hasn't moved, the think ways a tonne plus the reinforcement bar i suppose keeps it stable as it's flush with a foam spacer in the between it and the intercooler.

In regards to your question jasoob, I've felt it react way better when boosting.

I'm going to do the ams boost pill but I'll be doing a turbo upgrade at some stage so it doesn't really worry me for the fact it still hits peak boost at the same time the basemap says it does but I'll see if I can grab a graph to represent what's happening with the car I just don't' have enough experience with evoscan to make it nice and pretty but I'll try .

 

How'd you get the black-topped turbosmart? Mine came with the red and I hate it..

 

I ordered it from lancershop.com and it gave me the choice in colour.

The stickers on the intercooler were my mates handy-work not mine, however I tried to go as stock looking as possible so I don't have people dragging me at every set of lights as much as I like it lol/ police watching everything I do.

Still need to do the boost pill and wideband so I'm thinking it would be easier to fit a turboxs stealth exhaust and continue from there .

Have a drag strip race lined up with my friend in his new SS commodore, I have to win at all costs he sold out from a GTS lancer to it rather than a evo or ralliart.

 

If the LICP silicon connector is bent to fit - it is internally crimped... This really reduces flow.

Get a 45 deg angle one when you get a chance.

It won't 'hurt' anything - just an impediment to flow. (same as why 'mandel bent' exhaust pipes are an imperative...)

 

Will do I just haven't had a chance to give it some TLC.

I've got my 45,000km service coming up and just wanted to check what else is required/if I'm missing anything necessary as I'm taking it to a non-mitsu mechanic who will do anything I ask / recommended on the log book but I would also like to do anything else at the same time

*Normal 45,000km service as standard

Extra to be performed by me:
*SST fluid/filter flush and change
(For this I'm not sure if I want to get diaqueen or Pentosin FFL-2 and if i chose FFL-2 does it last as long as diaqueen or will more maintenance be required and does anyone know any good Australian suppliers or shops the offer international shipping I'm not paying a dealer $400 a can x2.)

* Diff and Trans case oil change
*Brakes
*Spark Plugs

Anything else to be considered that I'm missing out on?