Spark plug part # variation by model year
Spark plug part # variation by model year
Hi all,
Does anyone have context as to why NGK spark plug part # differs between the Ralliart model years?
2009 NGK ILKR7E6 / ILKR8E6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1443553
2010 NGK ILKR7E6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1445164
2011 NGK DILKR7B6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1501556
Just wondering what has changed over the years in the engine, aside from:
. oil jet delete
. plastic valve cover
. revised timing chain
Have there been any other changes?
Thanks.
Does anyone have context as to why NGK spark plug part # differs between the Ralliart model years?
2009 NGK ILKR7E6 / ILKR8E6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1443553
2010 NGK ILKR7E6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1445164
2011 NGK DILKR7B6
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/results-...R&aaia=1501556
Just wondering what has changed over the years in the engine, aside from:
. oil jet delete
. plastic valve cover
. revised timing chain
Have there been any other changes?
Thanks.
I just changed mine at 32k (
recommends 60k) to ILKR8E6 in my 2011.
They were cheaper (rock auto w/coupon), run one step colder (some say my help prevent detonation when tuning).
The DILKR7B6 that were in there from the factory are a little longer in total length because the tip also had an electrode pointing downward (not just upward like the ILKR8E6), but where the spark actually happens its the same spot if that makes sense.
I have noticed no change.. but my engine is completely stock.
recommends 60k) to ILKR8E6 in my 2011.They were cheaper (rock auto w/coupon), run one step colder (some say my help prevent detonation when tuning).
The DILKR7B6 that were in there from the factory are a little longer in total length because the tip also had an electrode pointing downward (not just upward like the ILKR8E6), but where the spark actually happens its the same spot if that makes sense.
I have noticed no change.. but my engine is completely stock.
I just changed mine at 32k (
recommends 60k) to ILKR8E6 in my 2011.
They were cheaper (rock auto w/coupon), run one step colder (some say my help prevent detonation when tuning).
The DILKR7B6 that were in there from the factory are a little longer in total length because the tip also had an electrode pointing downward (not just upward like the ILKR8E6), but where the spark actually happens its the same spot if that makes sense.
I have noticed no change.. but my engine is completely stock.
recommends 60k) to ILKR8E6 in my 2011.They were cheaper (rock auto w/coupon), run one step colder (some say my help prevent detonation when tuning).
The DILKR7B6 that were in there from the factory are a little longer in total length because the tip also had an electrode pointing downward (not just upward like the ILKR8E6), but where the spark actually happens its the same spot if that makes sense.
I have noticed no change.. but my engine is completely stock.
I wonder why the factory switched to this type of plug. Longer life?
interesting, according to this NGK chart just about everyone on this site should be running a colder plug...hmm
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/document...ge%20Chart.pdf
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/document...ge%20Chart.pdf
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from what i remember from my parts tech days years ago i believe the number directly after the R is the heat range... i think
ILKR7E-6 ...
i think instead of going witht he chart i may just ask my tuner what range they reccomend
ILKR7E-6 ...
i think instead of going witht he chart i may just ask my tuner what range they reccomend
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