quickflips

iTrader: (1)

Few weeks back when it first snowed, i drove my car to work just fine with no issues whatsoever. Parked my car at work and when leaving it wouldn't start without jumping it. Went home and just figured, with the battery being old and it being cold out, it might be time to replace it at 60k. New battery went in fine. Few days later it snowed again and I went out hooning a little with friends before work. Alas I make it to work and pulling into the spot, the car basically died completely and all the warning lights came on. I did a battery reset, and tried to reset using the tactrix , but seemed that my ecu was bricked being that the fans were on. I took it home and benched the ecu and all was good for a day, till it died again. This time, it would start up with lots of difficulty and a little gas, but the car wouldn't engage in any gear. I benched the ecu again but got nowhere. Consulted a few shops and everyone gave me an indefinite answer, but mostly saying the sst is done at this point, or i need to change the fluid etc. I didn't want to risk paying a high diagnostic fee at certain shops so I opted to go with the dealer since I do still have my extended warranty and I was able to revert most of my car back to stock, other than cosmetics and suspension (people thought i was crazy working on a car in the verizon parking lot lmao)

Got my car to the dealership and had an emergency leave overseas so I told them to communicate via email. I left around Christmas so I figured my car wouldn't get touched till the new year anyway. Their first guess was also the sst being blown but they said they will look into it. This was also when that ecu recall came out to reprogram it for lower tq and nonsense so they thought trying that may solve the issue. I called and left many messages, and sent a few emails but the only time I was able to get the service rep, he said it turned out to be the fuses and relays causing the car to not start in the cold, and when they performed the ecu reprogram, the car was still the same but the only code it showed was p1590, which is ecu to tcu communication and they would check during the day what is causing the code. When they finally got back to me later in the day via email he said,
"Kamal, the technician traced the wiring as per Mitsubishi & found that the pipe coming from the intercooler to the turbo is crushed against the connector causing the wires to break. We need to try to repair the wires, reprogram transmission ecu & engine pcm. If that works we can save from replacing the complete harness< the cost would be about $810.00 + tax. I contacted your service contract company & they said the policy was canceled. After repairing & reprogramming everything, we will try to reposition the intercooler pipe so this doesn't happen again. Please let me know if you would like us to proceed so we can get this repaired & off the lift as soon as possible.
Thanks,
Rob"

Now this email was both good and bad. Good because it means there's a chance that my trans is still okay. Bad because that cost is absolutely ridiculous and how in the world does my service contract get canceled that I paid so much money for. I called him instantly and asked for a breakdown of this pricing and he said between diagnostic, the repairing of wiring, and reprogramming, each thing costs about $200. Besides that fact, I demanded to know why my contract was canceled and he said oh when he called them, that's just what they said. This is my first ever trip to any dealer with this car and its all stock minus coils, wheels, and carbon trunk. I understand its their discretion but wtf I should at least be told a reason why or how, or at the very least WHEN it gets canceled. I paid $2700 for it and I'm def not letting them pocket that and it be thrown in the trash when I actually need it.

I'm puzzled whether to actually let the dealership proceed with the work and charge so much or tow it to a different shop and have them do it. I assume between the tow, and the repair it may round about be the same amount, but any saving from that amount would still be savings, esp since I had a last minute trip overseas, right after buying some blizzaks on top. Any input or thoughts?

Slee256

To me, the next step is a no-brainer, call your extended warranty provider and find out why the hell they would say that your policy is cancelled. Get that straightened out first, and then go from there.....

parralegend

After reading that and being a amateur myself when it comes to installing anything what wire could it possible touch? My upper piping is at least 7-8 inches away from anything that would come close to a wire so thats pretty weird
not the clearest pic but certainly I cant see anything.