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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:04 PM
  #16  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by razorlab
Like I said, a pipe must be off since you are getting 4psi and hearing a sound. Check all the connections.
Before the hiss I was only getting 9ibs
Would that have been a different issue the hiss just started today
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:07 PM
  #17  
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Could have been a connection working itself loose.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:08 PM
  #18  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by Lanart2011
Before the hiss I was only getting 9ibs
Would that have been a different issue the hiss just started today
Also how do I adjust the boost is it done with a tune?
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:16 PM
  #19  
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From: Charlotte
Originally Posted by Lanart2011
Also how do I adjust the boost is it done with a tune?
You dont. You will blow the engine. Take it to a professional or you will wish you did.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 3gturbo
You dont. You will blow the engine. Take it to a professional or you will wish you did.
So adjusting the boost is don't with a tune then not with a pill and waste gate or a boos controller
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 04:30 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lanart2011
So adjusting the boost is don't with a tune then not with a pill and waste gate or a boos controller

Your end goals and competency working on cars decides that.
If you want a 28 psi evo x turbo monster than you would replaces a plethora of parts.
If you wants a 20 psi mild tune you can do that with an EBCS.

You should not be worrying about "adjusting" boost but rather figuring out where the boost you are making is going. As stated before 9/10 its going to be a loose hose on the UICP, or LICP. It sounds like your car was modded pretty good then they traded it in, took off a bunch of stuff and did a **** job reinstalling their stock parts.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:11 AM
  #22  
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From: Charlotte
Originally Posted by DWILSON357
Your end goals and competency working on cars decides that.
If you want a 28 psi evo x turbo monster than you would replaces a plethora of parts.
If you wants a 20 psi mild tune you can do that with an EBCS.

You should not be worrying about "adjusting" boost but rather figuring out where the boost you are making is going. As stated before 9/10 its going to be a loose hose on the UICP, or LICP. It sounds like your car was modded pretty good then they traded it in, took off a bunch of stuff and did a **** job reinstalling their stock parts.
He just doesnt sound like he has a handle on this at all. Its good to learn new stuff its also expensive on an evo. If you turn up the boost without the proper tune it will blow the engine fyi.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 08:40 AM
  #23  
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From: Troy, NY
Originally Posted by 3gturbo
He just doesnt sound like he has a handle on this at all. Its good to learn new stuff its also expensive on an evo. If you turn up the boost without the proper tune it will blow the engine fyi.

I agree,
That's why I'm saying he need to not worry about more and start worrying where the leak is...they are mutually exclusive concepts as one pertains to performance and his problem is a maintenance thing.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:55 AM
  #24  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by DWILSON357
I agree,
That's why I'm saying he need to not worry about more and start worrying where the leak is...they are mutually exclusive concepts as one pertains to performance and his problem is a maintenance thing.
so I had a smoke test done and all the lines for the turbo are connected and good can someone explain the wastegate the auto shop said they think the boost is coming from the wastegate
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #25  
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From: Troy, NY
Do some googling on parts of a turbo system that will help you figure it out.
FWIW I just had to replace my wastegate actuator, ask the shop to tighten down the Wastegate actuator(WGA) arm as much as they can and see if your boost gets a little better.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 02:01 PM
  #26  
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From: Charlotte
Originally Posted by DWILSON357
I agree,
That's why I'm saying he need to not worry about more and start worrying where the leak is...they are mutually exclusive concepts as one pertains to performance and his problem is a maintenance thing.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 07:16 PM
  #27  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by 3gturbo
So the leak is in the boost gauge that is installed but still doesn't explain why I'm only getting 9ibs of boost when everyone here is saying 13 to 18 psi so now that I've fixed that can someone tell me what a stock 2011 ralliart should peak at
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:52 AM
  #28  
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From: Troy, NY
Originally Posted by Lanart2011
So the leak is in the boost gauge that is installed but still doesn't explain why I'm only getting 9ibs of boost when everyone here is saying 13 to 18 psi so now that I've fixed that can someone tell me what a stock 2011 ralliart should peak at
Its on cobbs website, I believe 16 peak is in my brain.
I would lean toward another leak being there.
go over every boost and boost signal line there is and see what you find I'm certain you will find a plethora of little leaks biting you in the *** right now.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 05:44 PM
  #29  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Originally Posted by Lanart2011
So the leak is in the boost gauge that is installed but still doesn't explain why I'm only getting 9ibs of boost when everyone here is saying 13 to 18 psi so now that I've fixed that can someone tell me what a stock 2011 ralliart should peak at
It's 18-19 peak psi on a stock Ralliart. Look at post #13 in this thread and Razorlab posted a graph that shows you the numbers right there in black & white.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 08:45 AM
  #30  
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One more - find the leak(s).


Take the gauge out of the system and see if the car pulls harder. If so - it too is leaking.


Replace the BOV and then (only then) try another waste gate actuator. WGA doesn't really fail (none I am aware of).
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