*Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change*
Dec 26, 2012, 06:11 AM
#1
*Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change*
Hey guys, girls
So over the Christmas break I decided to change my rear diff and transfer case fluid was pretty easy thanks to the help of (Kyle 03chi) for the pointers I took a few pics of the process to make it even easier for people since there are threads but hardly any pics of the process. Once again thanks to Fredbeansparts I got a good deal on a gallon of the fluid which is more than enough to do the job times two. And I picked up a basic pump to pump the fluid in the diff and transfer case from work (autozone) on to the pics.
Fresh fluid and hand pump ready to go
REAR DIFF
Rear diff was very easy it's all right there in plain sight. I jacked up the car level on 4 jack stands so I could crawl under the entire car. Drain bolt for the rear diff is a 10mm Allen. The fill hole is a 15/16th I didn't have a open end 15/16th so I used an adjustable wrench. Open the full hole first to get air in so the fluid will drain better then open up the 10mm drain hole. Let it pour out for awhile. Then reinsert the drain bolt it's magnetic so that's cool make sure you clean it up good as you see mine was pretty dirty for 86,000 miles lol. Then pump in fluid until it comes out the fill hole it's as easy as that for the rear diff. Onto the transfer case!
TRANSFERCASE
Transfer case was a little harder but not really just took more time. To make it easy I removed the plastic undertray from the car. Most of the time went there since mine is help together with a few factory clips and the rest zip ties haha. When it's off if you look on the passenger side front of the car and fallow the cv axel it will run into the transfer case. The fill hole is a 17mm and it's uptop facing up by the passenger side cv axle I tied to get the best pic I could of it. There's plenty of room to get even a braker bar in there to loosen the bolt. The drain plug is again a 15/16th magnetic plug. I'm glad Mitsubishi did this with the magnetic plugs as you can see they really help catch extra metal shavings. Drain until all is out then replace the drain plug 15/16th and pump in fluid until it comes up the fill hole 17mm replace the full bolt and put back your undertray wala all done. It's as simple as that. Hope this helps you all!
So over the Christmas break I decided to change my rear diff and transfer case fluid was pretty easy thanks to the help of (Kyle 03chi) for the pointers I took a few pics of the process to make it even easier for people since there are threads but hardly any pics of the process. Once again thanks to Fredbeansparts I got a good deal on a gallon of the fluid which is more than enough to do the job times two. And I picked up a basic pump to pump the fluid in the diff and transfer case from work (autozone) on to the pics.
Fresh fluid and hand pump ready to go
REAR DIFF
Rear diff was very easy it's all right there in plain sight. I jacked up the car level on 4 jack stands so I could crawl under the entire car. Drain bolt for the rear diff is a 10mm Allen. The fill hole is a 15/16th I didn't have a open end 15/16th so I used an adjustable wrench. Open the full hole first to get air in so the fluid will drain better then open up the 10mm drain hole. Let it pour out for awhile. Then reinsert the drain bolt it's magnetic so that's cool make sure you clean it up good as you see mine was pretty dirty for 86,000 miles lol. Then pump in fluid until it comes out the fill hole it's as easy as that for the rear diff. Onto the transfer case!
TRANSFERCASE
Transfer case was a little harder but not really just took more time. To make it easy I removed the plastic undertray from the car. Most of the time went there since mine is help together with a few factory clips and the rest zip ties haha. When it's off if you look on the passenger side front of the car and fallow the cv axel it will run into the transfer case. The fill hole is a 17mm and it's uptop facing up by the passenger side cv axle I tied to get the best pic I could of it. There's plenty of room to get even a braker bar in there to loosen the bolt. The drain plug is again a 15/16th magnetic plug. I'm glad Mitsubishi did this with the magnetic plugs as you can see they really help catch extra metal shavings. Drain until all is out then replace the drain plug 15/16th and pump in fluid until it comes up the fill hole 17mm replace the full bolt and put back your undertray wala all done. It's as simple as that. Hope this helps you all!
Last edited by 08Lancer89; Dec 26, 2012 at 06:15 AM.
. Damn northern winters. Nice pictures, wish I had these for when I did mine.
