Best MPG in Stock configuration - Outlander Sport SE 4WD
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
@Outie11
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
***************

oh, just read your sig >
I don't know about you, but who can tell everything about a new vehicle from "only the test drive"??? So the issues we bring up (eventually) are legitimate After we put in some time with our CUVs.
It has nothing to do with us signing on the dotted line then having a mental distortion of what we bought...
And, (I don't believe) none of us here has ever compared the "build quality" or "performance" of the Outlander Sports to a Mercedes or BMW... Just the looks/shape perhaps - which is exactly that > Appearance.
No one is getting some "yoda mind trick" that entitles our similar looking mini-SUV from having the same upscale characteristics (quietness, power, handling) of those brands.
So, I just want to make that clear. Cool.
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
***************

oh, just read your sig >
When I bought my Outlander Sport, it was slow, and kinda noisy on the test drive. Today, one year and five months later it still is.
Apparently, when others bought their Outlander Sports, they were Mercedes quiet and BMW fast. They signed on the dotted line and the car transformed into the slow, noisy beast that it is today. I wanna test drive the pre-transformation OS's that they did!
Apparently, when others bought their Outlander Sports, they were Mercedes quiet and BMW fast. They signed on the dotted line and the car transformed into the slow, noisy beast that it is today. I wanna test drive the pre-transformation OS's that they did!
It has nothing to do with us signing on the dotted line then having a mental distortion of what we bought...
And, (I don't believe) none of us here has ever compared the "build quality" or "performance" of the Outlander Sports to a Mercedes or BMW... Just the looks/shape perhaps - which is exactly that > Appearance.
No one is getting some "yoda mind trick" that entitles our similar looking mini-SUV from having the same upscale characteristics (quietness, power, handling) of those brands.
So, I just want to make that clear. Cool.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Oct 15, 2013 at 01:29 PM.
@Outie11
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
***************

oh, just read your sig >
I don't know about you, but who can tell everything about a new vehicle from "only the test drive"??? So the issues we bring up (eventually) are legitimate After we put in some time with our CUVs.
It has nothing to do with us signing on the dotted line then having a mental distortion of what we bought...
And, (I don't believe) none of us here has ever compared the "build quality" or "performance" of the Outlander Sports to a Mercedes or BMW... Just the looks/shape perhaps - which is exactly that > Appearance.
No one is getting some "yoda mind trick" that entitles our similar looking mini-SUV from having the same upscale characteristics (quietness, power, handling) of those brands.
So, I just want to make that clear. Cool.
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
***************

oh, just read your sig >
I don't know about you, but who can tell everything about a new vehicle from "only the test drive"??? So the issues we bring up (eventually) are legitimate After we put in some time with our CUVs.
It has nothing to do with us signing on the dotted line then having a mental distortion of what we bought...
And, (I don't believe) none of us here has ever compared the "build quality" or "performance" of the Outlander Sports to a Mercedes or BMW... Just the looks/shape perhaps - which is exactly that > Appearance.
No one is getting some "yoda mind trick" that entitles our similar looking mini-SUV from having the same upscale characteristics (quietness, power, handling) of those brands.
So, I just want to make that clear. Cool.
We've already covered this recently.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...der-sport.html
Starts around post #14.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
We've already covered this recently.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...der-sport.html
Starts around post #14.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...der-sport.html
Starts around post #14.
Guess I wasn't done with my 2 cents worth..
Sorry if I sounded like a vinyl record.
I think I'm done saying my peace.
@Outie11
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
Glad to hear you had a good trip and made it there to Baltimore safely. That's a hefty road trip for sure. Did you use AWD mode any during your trip?
I think we've hit the barrier on our O.Sport - it's getting 27.2-ish MPGs consistently and we can't seem to break pass that mark. (Our first O.Sport was able to reach the mid-30's more often and without much effort. Strange...)
I would love to discuss more with you about how you feel about your OS and mine, please PM me for further discussion if you'd like
Using fuelly to track my MPG, only filled it up twice and still plenty in the second tank, my one MPG so far is 24.6
Edit: I should add that a/c was used the entire time, no need for that until June now haha.
Edit: I should add that a/c was used the entire time, no need for that until June now haha.
Last edited by mgb; Oct 18, 2013 at 09:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
UPDATE: MPG Improves!
Confirmed >
After our 1st Oil Change.
NOTE (backstory)-
From the time we got our 2nd new O.Sport SE AWD, we have not been able go pass 27.X MPG, no matter what we tried (nor get anywhere close to our 1st SE AWD's 33-ish range that we were able to hit on a daily basis.)
However, right after our first oil change (@11,380-ish on ODO) just this past Saturday. We immediately gained 2MPGs... we just hit 29.7 on the cluster this morning and that reading is consistant, so far. (Driving the same routes we always do on weekdays.)
I guess I would say for those of us who have not seen/reach the rated MPGs - while driving CONSERVITIVELY - AND you have already passed the 3,500-ish miles mark.. I strongly suggest you get your oil changed > At the prescribed interval = @7,500 miles (or sooner)
- Don't drag your knuckles like I did... get it done and save money on fuel.
After our 1st Oil Change.
NOTE (backstory)-
From the time we got our 2nd new O.Sport SE AWD, we have not been able go pass 27.X MPG, no matter what we tried (nor get anywhere close to our 1st SE AWD's 33-ish range that we were able to hit on a daily basis.)
However, right after our first oil change (@11,380-ish on ODO) just this past Saturday. We immediately gained 2MPGs... we just hit 29.7 on the cluster this morning and that reading is consistant, so far. (Driving the same routes we always do on weekdays.)
I guess I would say for those of us who have not seen/reach the rated MPGs - while driving CONSERVITIVELY - AND you have already passed the 3,500-ish miles mark.. I strongly suggest you get your oil changed > At the prescribed interval = @7,500 miles (or sooner)
- Don't drag your knuckles like I did... get it done and save money on fuel.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Oct 21, 2013 at 09:05 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
^
Well.
On MY service bill (from this past saturday) - they did state full synthetic as the oil used for the change.
So, I can't see why they would alter it from factory...
Well.
On MY service bill (from this past saturday) - they did state full synthetic as the oil used for the change.
So, I can't see why they would alter it from factory...
My apologies, I was referring to the weight & viscosity, and potentially any "new car" or "break-in" additives.
The
2.0L 4B11 in my 2011 requires full synthetic oil, as I'm sure does yours. My owners manual and dealer both recommend 0W20, and as discussed in a previous thread, using oil other than [full synthetic] 0W20 can negatively impact the fuel economy.
It's not uncommon these days for OEM's to use a "special" oil from the factory, which is specifically formulated to protect the engine during the break-in period (actually, I think I might have been first informed about this by someone here). So, there is a possibility that you may have had your engine filled with anything from KY Jelly to bunker oil
.
Now, I really have to ask... you seem almost surprised that the dealer used full synthetic... Did you think it was filled with conventional (dino) oil previously? Because going 15k on synthetic is not necessarily something I would do, but going 15k with dino oil is definitely NOT a good idea.
The
2.0L 4B11 in my 2011 requires full synthetic oil, as I'm sure does yours. My owners manual and dealer both recommend 0W20, and as discussed in a previous thread, using oil other than [full synthetic] 0W20 can negatively impact the fuel economy. It's not uncommon these days for OEM's to use a "special" oil from the factory, which is specifically formulated to protect the engine during the break-in period (actually, I think I might have been first informed about this by someone here). So, there is a possibility that you may have had your engine filled with anything from KY Jelly to bunker oil
.Now, I really have to ask... you seem almost surprised that the dealer used full synthetic... Did you think it was filled with conventional (dino) oil previously? Because going 15k on synthetic is not necessarily something I would do, but going 15k with dino oil is definitely NOT a good idea.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
My apologies, I was referring to the weight & viscosity, and potentially any "new car" or "break-in" additives.
The
2.0L 4B11 in my 2011 requires full synthetic oil, as I'm sure does yours. My owners manual and dealer both recommend 0W20, and as discussed in a previous thread, using oil other than [full synthetic] 0W20 can negatively impact the fuel economy.
It's not uncommon these days for OEM's to use a "special" oil from the factory, which is specifically formulated to protect the engine during the break-in period (actually, I think I might have been first informed about this by someone here). So, there is a possibility that you may have had your engine filled with anything from KY Jelly to bunker oil
.
Now, I really have to ask... you seem almost surprised that the dealer used full synthetic... Did you think it was filled with conventional (dino) oil previously? Because going 15k on synthetic is not necessarily something I would do, but going 15k with dino oil is definitely NOT a good idea.
The
2.0L 4B11 in my 2011 requires full synthetic oil, as I'm sure does yours. My owners manual and dealer both recommend 0W20, and as discussed in a previous thread, using oil other than [full synthetic] 0W20 can negatively impact the fuel economy. It's not uncommon these days for OEM's to use a "special" oil from the factory, which is specifically formulated to protect the engine during the break-in period (actually, I think I might have been first informed about this by someone here). So, there is a possibility that you may have had your engine filled with anything from KY Jelly to bunker oil
.Now, I really have to ask... you seem almost surprised that the dealer used full synthetic... Did you think it was filled with conventional (dino) oil previously? Because going 15k on synthetic is not necessarily something I would do, but going 15k with dino oil is definitely NOT a good idea.
It was only from the thread (which I forgot which one here or from the Lancers guys) that mentioned something about dealers "switching back" to dino oil because of a bulletin from the factory - some such - that said to use conventional oil.
I was completely stocked and ready to go > to change my own oil myself (with Mobile1, 0-20W full synthetic) if my dealer was to switch/use dino oil.
I just couldn't pass up on the deal of FREE 5qt. oil + filter + cush washer offer. At least now we know what's offered.
I usually do my oil change at around the 10K mark, makes it easy for me to keep track. It only got to 11K because I had a lot of "other happenings" that needed my attention.
SIDE NOTE:
I did notice my OBC now shows my next scheduled maintenance is at 3,600/6Months. Wonder why that is.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Oct 21, 2013 at 03:23 PM.
Because the members in the service department are a bunch of clowns who want you to come back sooner than the interval. So now, whats going to happen is at 3,200 miles, every time you start the car it's going to say Maintenance Required and beep. Then, at 3,600 miles it's going to reset itself to 10,500 Miles/ 14 Months. Obviously, they know how to go into ETACS and reset the computer as they should since it reads 3,600 Miles/ 3 Months which is a good thing. Dealers on the East Coast are idiots and don't know that you cant adjust this timer with the info button anymore...



