Royal Purple = lifter tick?
Try to find why there's no pressure to the lifter. Different oil may have loosened some crud that is blocking flow. You can clean the lifters using the FSM and see if that helps. Or you can cut a filter open and look for specs of shiny heart breaking material to make sure loss of pressure isn't from wear.
Lifter tick not related to a recent cam install can be a symptom of something else much more serious than a bad choice of oil.
Lifter tick not related to a recent cam install can be a symptom of something else much more serious than a bad choice of oil.
I use 10w 40 RP, with an OEM filter, used since 1st oil change. I rip the car every weekend and I have zero problems. I also have Cosworth cams. 8K on the clock and going strong
The RP blowing engines is complete BS. I used it for years in my GTi and all my buddys use it as well.
The RP blowing engines is complete BS. I used it for years in my GTi and all my buddys use it as well.
good possiblity. could try running 5w-30 or stock 10w-30 and see if the ticking goes away
Last edited by evo150; Aug 10, 2007 at 08:32 PM.
There were people about a year back thate used Royal Purple for thier gear oils and ended up stripping gears and blowing trannys and TC's.. I got that confused with motor oil. after i did a search to see if i was right or not i found a couple of good post. I have always used Mobile 1 in every car since day 1. and you saw my motor when we took it apart. Walls were clean and showed little to no wear. That to me goes to show that its an amazing product.
Anyways this is a quote i found about RP and seems like alot or people of using it. But i would suggest MObile 1 for a little more go with AMS Oil. Great Stuff.
Royal Purple Info
As you may know, RP is big in racing circles. The chemistry they use is something we choose not to use. One of our big selling points is extended drain intervals. Some additive chemicals can cause adverse conditions when used for long periods.
Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Moly in their oil. Moly is a solid, specifically banned by Cummins, due to excessive valve train wear.
Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) is a processed mineral that is similar in appearance to graphite. Moly has good lubricating properties when used either by itself (in dry power form or as an additive to oil or other lubricants). Particles of the Moly can come out of suspension and agglomerate. This can actually clog oil filters or oil lines and the rest normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. This seems to be more likely when using extended drain intervals. The only test we ran on RP involved their 20W50 Racing oil versus our AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W50 Racing Oil (TRO). We ran two 4 ball wear tests with different parameters, a spectrographic baseline, FTIR scan and volatility tests. The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to TRO with a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the TRO left a .41mm scar and the RP oil left a .66mm scar. There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index. The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures.
This information was provided by AMSOIL Tech Department. They had an independent lab test Royal Purple against AMSOIL. The results are posted above. They have found Moly in Royal Purple. As stated above, this can have negative effects on your engine.
As you may know, RP is big in racing circles. The chemistry they use is something we choose not to use. One of our big selling points is extended drain intervals. Some additive chemicals can cause adverse conditions when used for long periods.
Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Moly in their oil. Moly is a solid, specifically banned by Cummins, due to excessive valve train wear.
Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) is a processed mineral that is similar in appearance to graphite. Moly has good lubricating properties when used either by itself (in dry power form or as an additive to oil or other lubricants). Particles of the Moly can come out of suspension and agglomerate. This can actually clog oil filters or oil lines and the rest normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. This seems to be more likely when using extended drain intervals. The only test we ran on RP involved their 20W50 Racing oil versus our AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W50 Racing Oil (TRO). We ran two 4 ball wear tests with different parameters, a spectrographic baseline, FTIR scan and volatility tests. The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to TRO with a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the TRO left a .41mm scar and the RP oil left a .66mm scar. There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index. The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures.
This information was provided by AMSOIL Tech Department. They had an independent lab test Royal Purple against AMSOIL. The results are posted above. They have found Moly in Royal Purple. As stated above, this can have negative effects on your engine.
Thanks bro didn't mean to freak you out.......
However i think your Tick is from something related to the oil change though it wasnt there before and thats that last thing you did since the tick started Sooo... We should do a some test when you get out.
Last edited by Spooldyou; Aug 11, 2007 at 08:14 AM.
I just received my third Oil Analysis, after running RP for the last 10K. No signs of material wear or oil break down, with 3K intervals. Before this, was running M1 for 18K, with 3K intervals and end up with Rod Knock. Bearings replaced under warrenty by Mitsubishi.
Edit: After the warrenty work, I did get the car properly tuned, so I don't think it was completely M1, but between factory map, 91oct and M1. Last comment from the Lab "RP is working for you, don't change a thing".
Edit: After the warrenty work, I did get the car properly tuned, so I don't think it was completely M1, but between factory map, 91oct and M1. Last comment from the Lab "RP is working for you, don't change a thing".
Last edited by mdsevo06; Aug 20, 2007 at 08:53 AM.
I just received my third Oil Analysis, after running RP for the last 10K. No signs of material wear or oil break down, with 3K intervals. Before this, was running M1 for 18K, with 3K intervals and end up with Rod Knock. Bearings replaced under warrenty by Mitsubishi.
Edit: After the warrenty work, I did get the car properly tuned, so I don't think it was completely M1, but between factory map, 91oct and M1. Last comment from the Lab "RP is working for you, don't change a thing".
Edit: After the warrenty work, I did get the car properly tuned, so I don't think it was completely M1, but between factory map, 91oct and M1. Last comment from the Lab "RP is working for you, don't change a thing".
I have used royal purple ever since i bought my car because ive always been a fan but I think this next oil change imgoing to try mobile 1, and an oem filter. I dont notice any tick in the engine and i have cams.
Changed cams at 18,000 miles - no tick
Ran M1 10W30 up to 40,000 miles - no tick
Changed to M1 10W30 ext perf - no tick until 50,000 miles then ticked real bad
Tried 0W40 M1 (actuallly has decent specs) - still ticked then got worse
So I removed each lash adjuster, bled them in a container of diesel fuel, bled them in a second container of diesel fuel, then in a third container I bled them upside down to fill them up until bubbling stopped, quickly returned them to the head where I, dropwise, added oil with a pin to get the last bubble out. Guess what? I start car and have not heard one tick since! I didn't even get the noise on first start I did initially with the cam install - started up quiet.
So now I try Royal purple 15W40, still no ticking and like the oil better
Ran M1 10W30 up to 40,000 miles - no tick
Changed to M1 10W30 ext perf - no tick until 50,000 miles then ticked real bad
Tried 0W40 M1 (actuallly has decent specs) - still ticked then got worse
So I removed each lash adjuster, bled them in a container of diesel fuel, bled them in a second container of diesel fuel, then in a third container I bled them upside down to fill them up until bubbling stopped, quickly returned them to the head where I, dropwise, added oil with a pin to get the last bubble out. Guess what? I start car and have not heard one tick since! I didn't even get the noise on first start I did initially with the cam install - started up quiet.
So now I try Royal purple 15W40, still no ticking and like the oil better
