When I stop....washer fluid squirts out
I found the fix, the car has 2 inline check valves under the hood. They are attached directly before the nozzle. Remove then and clean them out, they get gunked up and stick open. Easy way to check them is blow in one and air should go through, blow in the other and it should not. If you can blow both directions it's stuck open. I tried a few things to clean.. compressed air. Brake cleaner, and just pushing the sealing ball in and out repeatedly until it was working properly. Have not had self washing windows since. I will post a pic when I get a chance for those who don't know wtf a check valve is or looks like.
That is a terrible fix. I think people would rather have the fluid come out every once in a while then to have no way of washing the windshield when they are not near home or a gas station.
All you guys need to do is install an inline check valve made for windshield washers. Check valves are put in windshield washer fluid feed lines to eliminate "drool" due to dynamic vehicle loads and when the hood is lifted. They also provide instantaneous response, that is, there is no delay from the fluid from the pump activation to fluid spray. Moreover, they provide a crisp start-up/shut-off and thereby reduce the amount of fluid that land on the surfaces. depending if you get a t-style or an inline will decide how you install it. If t-style, remove current T under hood where it goes from one line into two and install check valve T. If inline, install one on each hose between the T and the actual nozzle.
I have the same problem since I just bought my evo. I ordered 2 new nozzles and it still didn't solve the leaking. Would any local auto store carry an inline check valve? Or any suggestions on where I may purchase this from online or elsewehre??? I will try this and let you guys know how it turns out. Hopefully it solves the problem or else Im going to empty the resovoir tank of the windshield washer.
I found the fix, the car has 2 inline check valves under the hood. They are attached directly before the nozzle. Remove then and clean them out, they get gunked up and stick open. Easy way to check them is blow in one and air should go through, blow in the other and it should not. If you can blow both directions it's stuck open. I tried a few things to clean.. compressed air. Brake cleaner, and just pushing the sealing ball in and out repeatedly until it was working properly. Have not had self washing windows since. I will post a pic when I get a chance for those who don't know wtf a check valve is or looks like.
this thread is ****ing hilarious because I thought i was the only one with this problem. it happened for the first time at an autocross when i had to stand on my brakes at the end of a course because there wasn't enough road designated for slowing down. mine does it BAD. I figured it's just a bad check valve, but i've never really played with it. it happens almost everytime I make a hard stop with the fluid tank is 75% to 100% full.
find the check valves, clean them, and you should be fine.
lol
it happens to me on track. when im heading towards the end of straight away (140 mph) and slam on the brakes, my nozzles squirt water... im the only guy on track that uses his wipers on a 95F clear weather
it happens to me on track. when im heading towards the end of straight away (140 mph) and slam on the brakes, my nozzles squirt water... im the only guy on track that uses his wipers on a 95F clear weather
had this problem a few years ago and I remember using Galant nozzles to fix the problem here are the part#'s MR598791 and MR987467 they cost like 10 bucks from russell @ mitsu parts.net