Its more a function of the stock ECU, since I can control it with the UTEC and not have a problem with it.. I just didn't want to potentially burn out the Solenoid by passing too much current through it for any period of time.

 

I'm actually running it at below 70% and hitting my target boost, so its really not a problem.. But I'd like to put some tech info together for people with something other than the AEM that needed an alternative.

 

Jack,

I went and double checked my aem map and when the turbo spools up it is at 60% and when it startsto taper i am at 88%.

 

Thanks, that'll make it easier for me to determine the current required, also let me know what the driver output voltage is, I'm assuming 5v

And the UTEC also has a fuel cut for boost (if your using the map sensor) I should actually have been a little more clear about what the intended point I was making since I don't actually use that configuration, Originally I had put together a GM Solenoid and MBC in parallel to use on a stock ECU and Reflash for a client which allowed me to set both the high-boost, and low boost values but control the switchover with the solenoid as a factor of the ECU, on that car, I used a basic electrically controlled plunger valve and not a solenoid as the final solution.

If the AEM were OBD-II compliant I actually would probably be running it, though I don't care for speed density, I would like the control it offered if it weren't for the legalities. As my car sits, its making its numbers in through a legal cat, passes both a sniffer and OBD-II check, and runs/idles like stock. It also took almost no effort to get the car drivable in all-year-round driving with the severe climate changes I live through. If I had the AEM, I'd have been doing alot of "Reinventing the wheel" to get the car to be as drivable as I had liked, and I couldn't afford the time and adjustment it would have taken (since my car is also my daily driver)

 

Thanks man.. Thats actually around where I'm finding my settings ending up with my stock turbo.. At least I know I"m not the only one who had to increase the value as the RPM increased to reduce the taper. I'm still refining my map, I just want that resistor on there so I don't burn out the solenoid.

 

The funny thing is, I bet it wouldn't be a huge engineering feat to build an interface into the EMS that would allow ODB-II emulation. There are already aftermarket interfaces that display a dashboard of realtime parameters. If the serial data can be used to do this it can be used to provide the basic ODB2 data. How much more than a basic "hello world" acknowledgement does your average emissions ODB2 scan require?

As far as fine tuning the daily driveability and cold starts, I don't think it's that big of a deal if you're comfortable manipulating the maps. Probably the toughest part would be to tune part throttle cruise so that it returned decent fuel mileage and throttle tip in.

 

I definitely agree with you there, but until something becomes available this won't even be more than a dreamer option for me. My climate makes cold start and daily drivability tuning a little "Tricky" since you need to experience the different conditions and make the minor adjustments to get it "Just right" and the part throttle and tip in settings, I can't agree with you more, thats definitely the hardest part for any Engine management, even the UTEC since there aren't specific tip-in settings and Decel settings, you have to be "Creative" in your approach to those things.

 

Ok, Luis convinced me to sign on... yes you max duty should be limited to 85% on the GM 3-way solenoid. His map had it at 99%, and thats a problem for two reasons. One is that it can lead to premature death of the solenoid, and the second is that its a sure way to get overboost as the weather changes as 99% is essentially running no signal to the wastegate. So you can imagine if the weather gets cooler, BIG boost spike = BOOM. Fuel cut load is a good saftey against this, and is why I always use it. Even if you lose signal to the gate, you won't get far as your car cuts in / out several times as you try to accelerate at WOT.

Using the solenoid or any EBC is really the best saftey feature for Methanol injected cars too. Every car I setup, I do so in such a fashion such that if you run out of methanol it immediately drops your boost to wastegate level. Worst case you end up with -100HP and a safe motor. I think dropping down to half of your normal HP is a good trade off compared to a hole in the block.

 

+1 I'm a firm believer in racegate tuning performance

 

Bring back form the dead...

I am debating between GM solenoid, or if possible my Profec B Spec II solenoid which is already hooked up, i'd just have to tap into the AEM instead of using the boost controller box.

kcevo, You say the profec b spec II solenoid is the same as the Apexi, so would this apply? (from horsepowerfreaks.com):

"If you use this with the AEM ECU, set the frequency to 30Hz in the AEM. Run the Red wire to ignition power. Run the black wire to pin E9-60 (for 93-98 Supra) on the AEM."

Where exactly did you tap the wires, could you show me an image?

 

Find the two pin connector for the stock wastegate solenoid under the air box on the frame rail on the driver side of the engine compartment. The red w/yellow stripe wire is 12v ignition and goes to the red wire on the greddy/apexi and the turqoise(sp?) wire is the switched ground and goes to the black wire on the greddy/apexi unit.

Also, the Defi EGT sensor extension wire that is for the BF series gauges and connects to the controller box has the female connector that mates up to the greddy/apexi solenoid for a plug and play type connection and is wrapped in a heat protective sheathing. Still have to hard wire the 2 wires in like mentioned above.

All the settings from horsepower freaks are correct to input in the AEM software.

 

Excellent, I like the defi wire extension idea, for a clean look. Is this the correct wire (link: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale...nsors_and_Wire )

"Universal Exhaust Temp. Sensor wire - 2.5m (to connect defi display unit to egt sensor), 103697 44.00"

 

Could someone running the GM solenoid with good results post all the settings from their "Boost Control-Options" menu. Preferably from v1.11 or later. Or provide a link to a good cal with boost control via a GM solenoid?

Thanks in advance!

 

I believe that is the part number for it. You may want to cross reference that with www.defi-shop.com.

 

Go to www.aempower.com and search boost control and you should find a MS word document that explains the closed loop boost control quite well. I would post my settings and file, but my laptops power supply took a crap and I can't power it on until I get a new one.

Off of the top of my head:

Frequency = 30hz
Max duty = 85.16
Min duty = 10.16

Only thing check marked should be boost control. Do NOT check boost from load.