What are you guys doing about boost control? Are you using the AEM, a manual boost controller, or an electronic boost controller?

 

bump for a good question as i just bought the EMS.

 

Oh, I also have a question to add. If you use closed loop boost control with an electronic solenoid which solenoid are you running?

 

I currently use the AEM, with the GM boost solenoid. The actual feedback system sucks pretty bad, not nearly enough resolution in the feedback loop so boost spikes above desired boost, then dips below it, then finally steadys out at your setpoint. I will be going back to a manual boost controler for my high boost seting, and just use the AEM with the GM solenoid in place to bypass the manual boost controler leavig me at spring pressure for the wastegate. This is why I purchased a 1.3 bar spring (18.9 psi) for my tial WG

Keith

 

Keith,

I see you on the aem forum some, have you downloaded BLKMGK's map from his supra for the boost feedback settings he is using? From his posts and numberous other users that have used and fine tuned his settings, they have had great success with boost thru the AEM.

I will be using the boost solenoid from the greddy profec b spec II EBC (same as the apexi solenoid), because it has a threaded body so you can attach AN fittings. Just a little overkill, but don't want to blow a vaccum line off while under high boost.

 

I use AEM along with the GM solenoid. It works very well. IMO, there is no need to spend additional money on a stand alone controller.

AEM can also adjust boost by speed, and barometric pressure (for high altitude applications). It takes some patience and knowledge to set it up properly.

I am able to hold 20-21 psi (from the AEM MAP sensor, 22-23 gauge) at redline with AEM on the stock 03 turbo, I was unable to do that with any other boost controller.

 

I'm bumping this thread because I'm curious if anyone knows the current (milliamps) required to drive the GM Solenoid or if you need a resistor, what size? I want to cut down the current to the boost solenoid on my setup to keep it from getting so hot when its at 100% duty..

 

Damn good question Malibu! I would like to know as well. Oh btw for those of you that run the bypass setup with an MBC how exactely would you go about doing that? I don't need a step by step I'm just curious as to the basics of that setup as it seems useful.

 

I running the GM solenoid with the AEM. With a low boost/hi boost(alky) switch

Low boost holds at 16 psi, hi boost holds at 26 all the way. This is on a DSM though, with an internally gated 60-1

I'm going to have to change out to an external gate to run more boost on the 60-1 as 26 psi is about as high as this actuator is going to let me. Of course I thought about using a carbeurator spring on the actuator arm to get more boost, and more flexibility.

 

Also, the boost CAN be controller without the GM soleniod correct?

 

You could control boost via the stock wastegate solenoid, whatever it's worth..

 

Or just an MBC?

 

You can use a MBC but dont expect the AEM to control it, heh

They have some nice in car MBC's out there..

 

Sweet man. I also run the GM Boost Solenoid and it works Well..

 

I guess nobody really knows the size resistor needed (milliamp output of the driver to actuate the boost solenoid)

you have several methods for boost control (it works similar on the UTEC) you can use a GM solenoid or the stock solenoid, the stock solenoid would be a bleed system, the GM solenoid would be a restrictor system.. You can run an MBC in parallel with the GM solenoid so if the solenoid is closed at 100%, it bypasses through an MBC and will get the max boost you set on the MBC.. If you have an external wastegate, and you can plumb the GM solenoid as a bleed system also to correctly actuate the ports on the external wastegate.

Here's the issue, and this probably applies to everyone using the solenoid, if you want to get the best boost response (open loop or closed loop) you need to set the duty at or near 100% for some portion of part throttle and in your low load, this will allow the boost to ramp quickly then vent as the boost needs to be regulated. But if you drive the solenoid at full current that the stock solenoid uses (Default settings on the AEM, and the default driver output on the UTEC) you would find the solenoid gets very very hot.. since the current is too high it will eventually burn out the solenoid or melt something, if you can reduce the output of the driver, or limit the current with a resistor, so its only enough current to correctly actuate the solenoid, it won't get much warmer than the ambient temp under the hood.. Only on the UTEC, the driver output voltage/current is fixed and not adjustable (since its assumed to be the stock solenoid) so what I'd need is either the current required to drive the solenoid, or the resistor value used to limit the current to it.