Some people have reported extended crank times to get the car started and this can be pretty frustrating after spending 2k on a standalone system.

Here are a few things you can alter for faster startup times:

1. On the top menu bar:

Sensors-> Cam/Crank Sensor-> Options-> Change Tooth Time Min from 0 to 500

Then go to Advanced Crank/Cam Sensor in the same menu and click "Sync Early"

2. In the "Engine Start" menu change the Crank Advance Value to 14.99 degrees

3. In the "Engine Start" Menu go to "Advanced Engine Start" and click "Crank Inject All". This activates the Initial " Initial Crank Pulse Table"

For the Initial Crank Pulse Table (injects a small amount of fuel into the cylinders before you crank the car) my values are as follows:


26880 24320 20480 16640 12800 10240 7680 6400 5120 3840

2560 1280 0 0 0 0 0

My car starts up pretty fast with these settings. See if they work for you. Remember to save an original copy of your Cal. File so you can always revert back.

Leave your feedback on how these settings or other settings work for you.

Binh

 

IIRC, the initial crank table is in units of time, so the values are essentially worthless with injector size included. Are these for stock injectors?

 

It is in units of time. usec. My settings are for stock injectors. I must be something right since most of the time the car will start on 3-4 cranks.

 

I checked my maps and noticed that everything you suggested has been done, except for the "sync early" box... which hasn't been checked off....
My car starts fast anyway.... will not checking this box matter?

 

hmm, going to try it soon..

 

No idea. I've read about checking that box off. It also "sounds" like it'll make the car start faster

 

I'll ask my local aem tuner regarding this..

 

I read on another thread that 3-5 sec of fuel pump prime helps as well, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll post after I try it, but my car already starts pretty well if I let it sit for a couple seconds with the key on.

 

I've posted this elsewhere, but I think it's worth repeating. How long the pump primes has no bearing on how fast my car starts up. The stock ECU does no priming at all, since the pump is not engaged until there is a signal from the CAS, and it starts up very quickly. However, the fact that the pump is priming is an indicator that the AEM ECU is booted up fully. The "ECU OFFLINE" light goes out at the same time that the pump starts to prime. This takes a solid 2-3 seconds. Cranking during this time is completely pointless. With my current settings, waiting for the pump to just kick on before turning the key to the "start" position, it now starts as fast as my 2 stock ECUs did, or close enough that I don't notice the difference.

Playing with the crank fueling recently after changing to a completely different map, it became apparent that too much or too little fuel in that table has a significat effect on how well the car starts. Especially in very cold weather! At first with this particular cal file the car would not start at all in single digit weather. I had to cut the cranking fuel by about a third.

Edit> The larger crank fuel numbers were probably left over from a tune for stock injectors, since it's in units of time, or more accurately, a multiplier given to microsec/bit.

 

Thanks to Binh and Kevin for helping us out with this nagging issue.

Having a good place to start is a huge help with the AEM and it's tenbazillion adjustment params.

 

I agree. Once I hear my EBC finish it's boot-up chime, then I start the car. I tried adding 2 secs of pump prime, and it didn't change a thing. I also changed from 9.37 degrees crank advance to 14.99 degrees, and it didn' really do anything. I'm just messing with this because I'm bored, not because my car takes super long to start.

 

What injectors do you run, and what fuel settings are you running? I run 780's. If you have similar injectors can you give me a brief explanation of what to change? Thanks.

 

What kind of wheel horsepower are you running with your setup?
How quick does your car start? I spent two hours on mine this weekend and warm it starts with one crank and at 20 degrees this AM it started,died, started with a little feathering. I'm running 850 cc injectors with a white rabbit and HKS 272 cams and probably a similar head.

 

I recommend setting up your Crank Injector Time Table when the car is at operating temperature. If it wont start in the cold change your Warm Up Enrichment Table for that temperature

 

Once the motor started AFR was dead on, which indicates to me that the warm up enrichment is good. It was only while cranking that it was dumping so much fuel that it would actually flood the motor.