Hey guys,

My car is running great w/ my EMS but I have noticed that the car likes to die whenever i have the clutch pedal in, especially at lower speeds. The rpm's go down because I push the clutch it but instead of just leveling itself out around 1K rpms, it just goes all the way down and dies. It seems to be more apparant when the engine is cold and/or if I am turning the wheel (which is using the power steering). However, it still happens sometimes when the motor is warmed up. The only way I can seem to remedy the problem is putting it into neutral before it can die and that usually helps. Anybody got any ideas?

 

i beleive it's a balancing act between your idle speed taget map, when your asking for idle speed , rpm, th & maybe car speed.

go for a drive while logging onto your pc. It doesnt have to be internally for thsi.

just log onto your laptop idle target, idle position, idle learned value, ign trim idle, engine speed, throttle, afr, ignition timing & vehicle speed & post your log, people will be able to really help you out, as we will be able to see what is going on & what the aem is trying to do & why.

you will have to "zip" the data log in order to psot it.

there are probably several other items that need to be logged to, but that is dependant on how your cal file is set up.

btw, what injectors & size are you running & what are your cam gear settings?

i have hks 280's, my idle target is 1k & it idles awesome with or with out the a/c on.

pm me if you have any other questions.

 

dude, thanks a lot bro!!!! ill try to get in there and do that. I have no idea to really mess with it though as i have a local tuner but ill try to do that. thanks man!

 

Like WOT said. Get some PC logs of the condition. Start logging a second or two before you push the clutch in and stop logging a second after the car dies. Post the logs

 

I was having the same problem until recently with another trip up to Buschur. Dave has tried many times to figure out why I was stalling and until recently I think he's fixed my problem. I have yet to stall (keeping fingers crossed) even when I try and duplicate the problem. I could actually make my car stall, but now I can't do it.

You're probably stalling when in 4th, the rpms just around 2k (coming to a stop), you depress the clutch and the tach needle just falls and the engine cuts out. You more than likely can duplicate this problem also in any gear, just as long as you around 2k rpms and you depress the clutch while coming to a stop or turning.

Shoot Dave a pm and see if he can help you out.

 

i've been hearing more and more about this...i woner where the problem lies?

 

im having the same problem

 

don;t have an aem on my Evo, but I had this problem on my civic with an aem ems. In that case it was just a prob with the idle calibration like was mentioned in the second post. A good tuner should be able to get it sorted out for you no prob.
Good luck with this.

 

ive had that problem .. you have to retune your idle...
for all you DIY ppl ..what you do is
1) Set your idle target map at 900 after it goes to closed loop ...
2) Then on your idle FB hit the + or - to get the idle learned to be at -1 to -2..
3) Do this in increments.. Next go to 1000 repeat the same steps..Do this all the way up to like 1800 rpm.
4) Then set the closed loop idle back to 900 or if you feel your car is dying at 900 set it higher to your desired idle speed..
5) Now you have to check the options listed on the idle template ... There is a parameter there that pads your idle until you come to a complete stop.. i usually set this to 200.

Ill complete this writeup later as my aem is not in front of me .. PM me if you guys need further help.

 

go to the idle menu, then pull up the basic idle template, (it has the black T next to it)

there should be a window called options, look inside it for "hi idle car speed" above this speed the car will add a set amount of RPM wich can be changed by changing the value called "hi idle RPM offset" in the same idle options window

i would also reccomend adding a second or two to the value called "hi idle wait time" this will allow the car to hold the additional RPM for a few seconds longer allowing the idle to stabilize itself before settling to the base value

if this problem is only apparent when the car is cold then i would look at the "idle target base table wich will allow you to add additional idle RPM based on coolant temp, just bump it up a few hundred in the areas under 170 or so

granted if you base idle table is off, none of this will fix that & doing this can have some strange affects such as idle "hunting" or pulsing up & down

 

After setting my idle learned to -3 or -4 I notice often times after a week or so this will wander off and I need to re-adjust it again. Is there some quirkiness with AEM in how it controls the ISC? BTW, this is with a fully warmed car/closed loop, etc.

 

it is normal for there to be some variance in the feedback values, as long as your not correcting more than 5-10% you should have a stable idle. if your still having probs id look around for an air leak as that can also cause an inconsistent idle & would exibit some of the symptoms you are describing

 

I had a similar problem with no fix until I changed my
TPS. No problems since.

 

if you have after-market cams, this will happen... just adjust your idle and fuel table and it should fix the problem

 

Working the high idle settings will fix any stalling that happens when turning the wheel and such while rpm is dropping to idle. I'm currently running an 1100 rpm idle for the revolvers with a 200 rpm high idle bump for 5 seconds. The car has never stalled.

For what it's worth, I don't even bother with closed loop idle speed control. The ECU asses around too much trying to make it perfect. Unlike closed loop fuel control, I don't believe we even have access to the PIDs for this. My idle is rock solid, and doesn't vary more than 50 rpm one way or hte other with atmopheric changes. In order to keep the high idle working, you have to keep the closed loop control active, but limits it's adjustment range to 1%.

There is no point to adjusting the ISC base table at RPMs above your high idle RPM when the motor is warm. It will need more ISC base to hold a given RPM when the motor is cold. Best thing to do is a cold start (a little late in the season for this) and follow the ECU along the ISC base table as it runs through the RPM breakpoints naturally, adjusting the base % as you go. If you're running a tight high idle delta (like the 200 rpm mentioned above) you'll be warmed up enough when it gets there that it will still be fine when adjusted warm.