I've been doing some tuning on my car and was wondering if I could get some input on the logs please.

2.3
35r
CAM2 (110 leaded)

Before I go messing with timing too much more I wanted some educated eyes to look over these please. BTW, the wideband is about .2 rich(add .2 to the readings) in the logs compared to the display. Reads fine everywhere but in boost....

Thanks!

 

set up the log to watch knock 1 raw (aka, ADC04R or something) this will give you an idea of general engine noise as a backdrop for knock #1 volts which is a filtered value

watching knock retard/fuel will allow you to spot any knock that the logging misses..... which can happen even @ the max logging rate

also looks like your not quite hitting 100% on the TPS sensor, might want to drop the max tps volts one tick

injectors are showing 90% duty, keep an eye on that when you start turning up the boost

 

Yeah, I was wondering about the IDC. I'm running PTE 1000cc and dual pumps. I was worried, Im only running about 28 psi, wierd they are maxing out so fast, I suspec there is something wrong in the EMS's calculation.

Thanks for the other tips!

 

while the logs show about 28 psi, it is actually only 24 psi or so (depending on altitude) as the MAP reads in Absolute. hook up a laptop to the the EMS & read the load/boost values when the engine is not running & you'll see what i mean

here in Ca by the ocean i read 4psi on the MAP sensor with the motor off, go up into the hills & you'll see a bit less

 

If it is reading 4 psi your map sensor is not calibrated correctly or it is bad. You should be really close to 0psi with the stock calibration with your key in the on position and engine NOT running as it is set in the aem. Otherwise when you calibrate it you will end up with a fast or slow sweeping spot in the load rang and it will cause incorrect/incosistant tuning and fueling.

 

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure. do some research on the difference between gauge pressure & absolute pressure & you'll see where your mistaken

i assure you there are no flat or slow sweeping spots as my car runs like a champ.
also seeing that i have done all the tuning myself from idle to WOT i would have noticed it or seen it in the logs

 

Absolute Pressure


Absolute Pressure = 150 PSIG(Gauge Pressure) + 14.7 PSI(Atmospheric Pressure) = 164.7 PSIA

 

You are funny as hell but I think you have your wires crossed up, the only way you should be showing positive 4psi pressure with the AEM map sensor is if you are sitting around 7000ft above sea level as I believe from the factory is it zeroed out for altitude as it is a MAP sensor. As you go up pressure gets less, as you go down pressure goes up. Just offering some advice but as I can see you already know it all, I know what a map sensor is and does.

You can't predict what the post owner is seeing in boost, this will depend up how he has calibrated his sensor or just left it along and every sensor reads just a hair differently from what I have seen from AEM.

 

i apologize if i offended you, i wasn't trying to come off as condescending or as a know-it-all, just tossing out some info on the diffrence as it is hard to know everyones background or where they are coming from, esp on these boards where everyone is a keyboard tuner

it is possible you are correct & they have changed something in the setup or wizards as i have had the EMS/MAP since they were released & haven't recal'd my MAP sensor since build 1.09 or whatever it was back then when i installed it and i don't remember any offset or calibration to compensate for atmo pressure aside from skewing the values in the sensor lookup table

 

GT, could you please comment on my logs?

I know you do a lot of tuning as well...

 

Np, When I open your logs they don't look bad but the first thing I see is that your air temp doesn't look like it is accurate. It is flat then it shows violent dips and this will cause some fueling troubles so I would try to get that sorted out first.

Log number 12 looks good as you roll into 3rd but I would like to see very fast sampling in the knock area it look good but I just like to be for sure as you have a few spots over 2.5 volts. This isn't necessarily bad but rather be safe than sorry just to be sure even though retard shows nothing I don't know how fast your recovery rate is. Afr's look good as they descend and looks like you have more room here to push.

Log number 11 looks like I have very similar questions, In addition to as you spool up in 2nd I see your fueling start to take a hit and not descend as it looks like you are pushing the edge of fuel supply during this transition. I see a similar value when you are spooling in 3rd as afrs are a little tight in spool up. These don't seem to be causing an issue for you though at the time. And then once again in 3rd I see fuel suffering around 7400 rpms as your afr's start to climb and IDC's up around 90%.

All in all I don't know what type of ign timing you are running but it seems that you might still have some room if you can get your fueling adequate after you research and ensure your knock is good. Not that your fueling is bad since you are running cam2 fuel but I just feel you might be getting close from what I can see on my end. I don't think you are looking bad at all safe wise though.

I hope this helps,
GTVEVO

 

Np dude, its really good that one more person on here is down to earth.

 

Thanks a lot for the input. I've been worried about the IDC's so I did some looking and realized my second fuel pump was not being activated. Got that sorted out but I guess I'm still going to have to up my FP as at 28.5psi I'm still around 91-92%

The IAT is not hooked up at the moment That is why you see it all over the place, and that table is 0'd. I intend to work on that as I'm starting to get irritated with the car changing in diff climates.

I'm running about 6-7* in peak tq, but cannot get over 8 degrees past 6500ish w/out the car knocking. I went to 8.66 and got some spikes in the 3.5+ range

I'm overall dissapointed in this fuel, but I don't want to spend 75 bux on c16 all the time, so I guess this will have to be a medium for me, as I'm not sure if I want to go back to meth yet.

Everytime b/w 73-7500 RPM I get at least a 2.5v spike, no matter what. I've backed timing down some and it didn't help much, thats when I tried to go up and it didn't like it.

Also I did a 1-4th tonite. The car knocked a bit at 7500 in 1st, but the rest of the pull was "ok". I did log Knock retard and knock fuel that time, and the knock retard was at 3-4+ the rest of the time, however my IGN timing line followed my curve. I thought it would reflect the timing changes too? Wierd thing is my refresh is at 150, but it stayed pulling even though I was below my knock cal line.

Again thanks so much. Its been very hard for me to find people willing to help.

 

ha, go figure! you were right too. i just pulled up the setup page & shure enough there it is "load offset" set at 0.00 i swear it wasnt there before


ok enough


to the OP, check your knock advance, if there is nothing in this field it will not re-advance timing even if your restore rate is low/fast

 

I'm set to pull 1.64 per volt, and add 1.76 per 150.

The car did feel funny in 2nd and 3rd, like it was pulling timing, which would correspond with the Knock retard, but the actual ign timing value followed my curve, I thought it would reflect the ems changes?