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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #16  
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From: Ozark, MO
Originally Posted by ExViTermini
I'm set to pull 1.64 per volt, and add 1.76 per 150.

The car did feel funny in 2nd and 3rd, like it was pulling timing, which would correspond with the Knock retard, but the actual ign timing value followed my curve, I thought it would reflect the ems changes?
It sounds like you do know your way around the AEM box but I will throw a few things out that might help get you closer if you aren't doing them already. Check to be sure your Knock params are set on the fast channel for internal logging and also set to fast if you just doing pc logging and to remember the less params with pc logging the faster your log sample will be.

Does your 2.3 still have balance shafts as sometimes this can be the reason being for a vast amount of noise if they have been removed completely and not just clearance down. There could be many many variables that will cause one engine to have a bigger noise trend than another all the way down to the engine build and its clearances. The Knock #1 volts is filtered as said above but it might help to log raw just to have a comparison to see how well the filter/sample is working compared to the rest of the noise. You might have to get more creative to check for knock such as a combo of reading plugs, log readings.

If you pull timing because of knock you should see the ignition changes appear on the Ign Timing #1 param, this param shows the true ign value your car is running. Right now in your logs I just see Ign Timing and this value just reflects the map values calced so this might help.

I haven't had the best of luck with Cam2 hear either it wasn't very consistent for me, sucks but C16 is really where its at if you want to do good testing for max power but you are right its very costly and about 12 per gal for me here. Probably the best advice I can give it just keep testing to determine what you can and can't get away with. Get your small issues lined out and take your time to be sure they are all cleared up then use C16 and strap it into a dyno as you go back to the street small adjustments should get you dialed in and you could be done.

If you have thought about running meth with pump there are some safe ways of doing it to bring in less worry.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 08:37 AM
  #17  
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From: Virginia
Once again, thanks again!

No my 2.3 does not have the balance shafts. I was looking at some pump logs last nite and the car was making a lot less noise. I would have to guess then that the more power you make the more general noise the motor will make?

I think I'm going to build a det can and give that a shot. Only problem is riding around street tuning with earmuffs on is not the smartest thing, and I'm not sure I'd like to hand over the wheel to a friend for me to ride shotgun....

Its wierd then that the knock retard shows high, but the ign1 param shows my normal curve....I wonder is there something else going on that I'm not seeing? EDIT: Sorry I misread what you said. I see now that I'm logging the wrong param! Thanks!

I think I have a deal worked out to trade some work for a meth kit. So I will be hooking that system up. Its a coolingmist kit, but I plan on getting the Labonte failsafe and integrating all of that into the EMS. Make it switch b/w standard and n2o maps, as well as alter my boost target.

Another thing I'm unhappy about with the ems is the boost control. I have it setup with the VSS and no error correction. Sometimes my pull will get me 26 psi, sometimes 28-29. Very inconsistent. I miss my profec b.

Last edited by ExViTermini; Apr 12, 2008 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 08:48 AM
  #18  
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From: Ozark, MO
Originally Posted by ExViTermini
Once again, thanks again!

No my 2.3 does not have the balance shafts. I was looking at some pump logs last nite and the car was making a lot less noise. I would have to guess then that the more power you make the more general noise the motor will make?
Yes in most cases you are correct here.

I think I'm going to build a det can and give that a shot. Only problem is riding around street tuning with earmuffs on is not the smartest thing, and I'm not sure I'd like to hand over the wheel to a friend for me to ride shotgun.... If you can do this on a dyno it would be ideal.

Its wierd then that the knock retard shows high, but the ign1 param shows my normal curve....I wonder is there something else going on that I'm not seeing? EDIT: Sorry I misread what you said. I see now that I'm logging the wrong param! Thanks! NP

I think I have a deal worked out to trade some work for a meth kit. So I will be hooking that system up. Its a coolingmist kit, but I plan on getting the Labonte failsafe and integrating all of that into the EMS. Make it switch b/w standard and n2o maps, as well as alter my boost target.

Another thing I'm unhappy about with the ems is the boost control. I have it setup with the VSS and no error correction. Sometimes my pull will get me 26 psi, sometimes 28-29. Very inconsistent. I miss my profec b.
Boost control is very timely to setup on the EMS and most of the time it is setup incorrectly and to run one target. Each line is used to hit a target so the 10 psi line should contain the duty it takes to run 10psi and this if for each and every line. When you do this your error correction and boost will get more consistent but it takes a while to get going correctly under all situations. I just use an EBC because I like the power to change it too often.

Next question is you are running a 2.3 with a GT35R and I see 22 psi at about 5k, what else do you have done because I see some room for improvement here but I know where or how you was testing when you took those logs either so I just wanted to ask.

Notice I commented inside your quote.

GTVEVO

Last edited by GTVEVO; Apr 12, 2008 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 08:53 AM
  #19  
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by GTVEVO
Boost control is very timely to setup on the EMS and most of the time it is setup incorrectly and to run one target. Each line is used to hit a target so the 10 psi line should contain the duty it takes to run 10psi and this if for each and every line. When you do this your error correction and boost will get more consistent but it takes a while to get going correctly under all situations. I just use an EBC because I like the power to change it too often.

Next question is you are running a 2.3 with a GT35R and I see 22 psi at about 5k, what else do you have done because I see some room for improvement here but I know where or how you was testing when you took those logs either so I just wanted to ask.

GTVEVO
HKS 280 cams ( I think these are hurting my top end noise profile, not big enough)
Magnus SMIM
1mm over valves, dual springs, port and smooth

They were done on flattish ground 3rd gear flooring it around 3kish.
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