Money makes the world go 'round.

But seriously. I don't see why this reaction (or lack of) should be any surprise to you.

 

x2.

You could call up AMS and ask them the same, and they would say come in and get a tune..... nothing is free. Tuning fees are so expesnive (relatively) to say mechanical work because you are paying for the tuners experience. Anybody can put numbers in cells, the speed and accuracy with which you get to those numbers is what you pay for.

Scorke

 

Ok i knew i would get the captain obvious comments.. I understand what your saying more then you obviously know.. lol. But thats ok i understand how it is.. you never know who your talking to on forums, so understood. I was simply trying to start a thread where people could share there info such as they do with ECU Flash... I didnt know that was so bad??

 

I hear your sentiment, unfortunately the people that can shell out 1400 dollars for a standalone can usually pay for a tune, where as lots of people can afford ecuflash cables and not a tune.

It isn't "bad" to ask for help just stating that you wont find many self tuned standalone users out there.

Scorke

 

I was not trying to be a dick, but i am running more timing and more boost on pump gas that people have been stating in this thread. Specific ignition values are not comparable from car to car with the many different combinations of aftermarket parts. I would not like to post my values and destroy their car, because what works for my car may not work for yours. The temperature of air also has a huge effect on the amount of timing you can run. I can keep my intake temps less than 10 degrees above the air temp.

 

I wouldn't post a timing map simply because people who shouldn't be tuning their cars are... and when they mess up and blow their engine up... they're going to blame the people who supplied the map regardless of any waivers.

Summary of thread... if you can't tune your own ignition advance tables, you shouldn't be "t00ning" your car.

 

*** 1991 GALANT VR4 ***

This is what I am using. 2.0/GT37r/1000cc
8.5:1cr
HKS 272

My Current Tune at 34psi 11.5afr 12 degrees of timing makes about 530awhp on Q16. I would guess that at 34psi I should be in the low 600hp rage, so I still need to pull out a lot of fuel and add a ton of timing to the car.

I figured I would share because I am self tuning the car, and I know how hard it is to find info. None of the pro tuners want to let you know the trade secrets which I respect. So here is the info I am using to tune my car. If anyone here thinks this info is bad or needs to be adjusted please let me know. I also post up CALs and Logs on the AEM Forums.

This is specific to Built Motors.

Pump Gas (91oct Cali)
AFR: 11.0-11.3
Timing: 10 degrees before spoolup, 15 degrees at Redline
Boost: 25-28psi
Knock: Less than 2.5 volts

Q16 or C16
*** Q16 requires 4-6% more fuel over your C16 tune ***
Q16 or C16 - Low Boost
AFR: 12.5
Timing: 22-25 degrees
Boost: 30psi or less
Knock: Less than 3.0 volts

Q16 or C16 - Medium Boost
AFR: 12.5
Timing: 18-22 degrees
Boost: 30-35psi
Knock: Less than 2.7 volts

Q16 or C16 - High Boost
AFR: 12.5
Timing: 12-18 degrees
Boost: 30-45psi
Knock: Less than 2.5 volts

*** The reason for less volts on knock with more boost is, when knock happens at 45psi, stuff breaks quicker, so put in some extra buffer. You can remove all of that buffer but these are the guidelines that I am using.

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,24045.0.html

CAL and Log File are on the second post.

 

A 1G will take more timing advance then the EVO engine will. EVOs are known to accept lower timing advance then the 1G 4G63 DSM engines. I have a built 1G and from all the 1Gs ive tuned personally anyway, they accept more timing advance then the EVOs ive tuned. Probably due to being less efficient if i had to take a guess

 

qft!

 

i have a red on 91 octane / m2 cams / all bolt-ons....run @ your own risk...

my engine is very sensitive between 6500 & 7200 revs....or so the knock sensor claims....so that is why my map flattens out there.... the higher revs, the engine takes the timing.

I target ~27.5 on 91octane & get it by ~4100 in 3rd gear, evo8 5spd

rpm 26.5 28.1psi

3500 6.9 6.7
3900 6.5 6.3
4300 6.2 5.9
4700 6.5 5.9
5100 6.9 6.2
5500 7.3 6.9
5900 7.6 7.3
6300 7.9 7.6
6700 7.9 7.6
7100 8.3 7.9
7500 9.0 8.3
7900 10.1 9.0
8300 11.8 10.1

 

So true

 

I think you can use the maps, all will depend on how you use it..!!
If you don't have a base map, you can use another guy map who has your same mods, and start working from there.. If you see that it is too aggressive you can lower it, if it is too conservative, you can give it a try and adjust a little step at a time.
Just my opinion..!!

 

This is always going to be the biggest argumentative topic :lol. I don't get why others get so hurt about it, Colt4g63 is not asking for a complete map , but maybe just tips on where he needs to start peak boost timing and go from there.

Colt I don't have EMS until next year, I'm on ECUFLASH but here's my build:

2.0-JE 9.0 Crower
Manley Built head
SBR 35r kit

AFR: 12.5 on Sunoco 116
4-16 timing @ 28 lbs

AFR: 12.5 on Sunoco 116
4-14 @ 32 lbs

This is what I used to baseline, then started moving timing gradually till I got 1-2 knock counts, I won't go into detail on the final timing because each car will be different and at your own risk. Do lots of logs and you'll see how fast your 35r goes.

 

Oh i tune my own cars and have been for over 10 years on the 4g63 alone I was just trying to get a thread started in here to share information etc about the AEM in general really... The ECUFlash board is constantly hoppin and there is a wealth of information goin on there because of it.. I was just making an effort to make a thread like it over here. There needs to be more action and support in the AEM forum. This place is like a ghost town.