Car in nuetral. Clutch in. Stalls. HELP
Nov 28, 2009, 05:30 PM
#1
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Car in nuetral. Clutch in. Stalls. HELP
Long story short my innovate lc1 is wired to my aem.
I accidentally did a free air calibration on the sensor when the car was running. Needless to say that F'ed everything up. The car pretty much stalled on the spot.
I did a free air calibration and the car idles fine but I've been having a problem.
As soon as I push in the clutch pedal (even with it in neutral) the car stalls.
Any ideas?
I accidentally did a free air calibration on the sensor when the car was running. Needless to say that F'ed everything up. The car pretty much stalled on the spot.
I did a free air calibration and the car idles fine but I've been having a problem.
As soon as I push in the clutch pedal (even with it in neutral) the car stalls.
Any ideas?
Last edited by binh; Nov 28, 2009 at 09:04 PM.
Dec 6, 2009, 08:29 PM
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you should take timing cover off and check if the signal plate on the end of the crank is rubbing when you push it is if so your motor has crankwalk my buddies did the exact same thing
Dec 6, 2009, 09:12 PM
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CRANKWALK!! NOOOO!! Check for freeend play of the crankshaft.
Page 11B-66 of FSM if you have it.
The crankshaft will move axially thru the block due to worn thrust bearing / crankshaft clearance. Our clutch is a pull-type. The excessive clearance will pull the sensing blade from the sensor!
Here is an image of the sensor/crank angle blade.
Im not too sure how to check this with out disassembly of major engine parts. Maybe visually look at the crank pully with a friend pumping the clutch with the engine off. The limit is 0.0015 inch, so i doubt you can see that with your eyeball. Good luck getting a dial micrometer in there... Sorry dude, i hope its not crankwalk! How many miles / mods / frequency of oil changes / type of oil? Did you disable the "depress clutch to start" interlock? Mine is unplugged because starting the engine with the clutch in causes wear of the thrust bearing surface (NO OIL PRESSURE!)
Page 11B-66 of FSM if you have it.
The crankshaft will move axially thru the block due to worn thrust bearing / crankshaft clearance. Our clutch is a pull-type. The excessive clearance will pull the sensing blade from the sensor!
Here is an image of the sensor/crank angle blade.
Im not too sure how to check this with out disassembly of major engine parts. Maybe visually look at the crank pully with a friend pumping the clutch with the engine off. The limit is 0.0015 inch, so i doubt you can see that with your eyeball. Good luck getting a dial micrometer in there... Sorry dude, i hope its not crankwalk! How many miles / mods / frequency of oil changes / type of oil? Did you disable the "depress clutch to start" interlock? Mine is unplugged because starting the engine with the clutch in causes wear of the thrust bearing surface (NO OIL PRESSURE!)
Last edited by silver_evo; Dec 6, 2009 at 09:17 PM.
Jan 15, 2010, 10:30 AM
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I didn't tune this car BUT ... Honestly who cares as long as the issue was taken care of? He said this didn't happen previously. And we only have one side to the story. None of us are perfect. It's what we do to correct our mistakes that make us who we are
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Jan 15, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Funny thing is after all it was crankwalk in a way (more so an oiling issue).
My motor finally quit starting up. My oil pump went and very quickly the thrust bearings got eaten up. It was found in the bottom of my oil pan. The car didn't start because the crank position sensor was no longer reading.
The sad part is that prior to this happening I installed a oil pressure gauge. While installing it I dropped the sender from 6 ft up and it hit the concrete. After starting the car up the readings were wacky all over the place. I assumed the sender was bad. A week later it went to zero. I drove like this for a day or so.
The rest is history. Only had 800 miles on the engine.
Moral of the story. Get a nice oil pressure gauge for your built bottom end and pay attention.
My motor finally quit starting up. My oil pump went and very quickly the thrust bearings got eaten up. It was found in the bottom of my oil pan. The car didn't start because the crank position sensor was no longer reading.
The sad part is that prior to this happening I installed a oil pressure gauge. While installing it I dropped the sender from 6 ft up and it hit the concrete. After starting the car up the readings were wacky all over the place. I assumed the sender was bad. A week later it went to zero. I drove like this for a day or so.
The rest is history. Only had 800 miles on the engine.
Moral of the story. Get a nice oil pressure gauge for your built bottom end and pay attention.
Jan 17, 2010, 10:44 AM
#9
Well that's not very funny..
Sorry to hear.. I've seen people lower there cars and take out the oil filter because the use the longer ones they get at an auto stores. I always install a ss line on the all oil sensor.. This helps keep the senor alive longer via vibration and keep it from ripping out.
Sorry to hear.. I've seen people lower there cars and take out the oil filter because the use the longer ones they get at an auto stores. I always install a ss line on the all oil sensor.. This helps keep the senor alive longer via vibration and keep it from ripping out.
Jan 18, 2010, 03:04 PM
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Well that's not very funny..
Sorry to hear.. I've seen people lower there cars and take out the oil filter because the use the longer ones they get at an auto stores. I always install a ss line on the all oil sensor.. This helps keep the senor alive longer via vibration and keep it from ripping out.
Sorry to hear.. I've seen people lower there cars and take out the oil filter because the use the longer ones they get at an auto stores. I always install a ss line on the all oil sensor.. This helps keep the senor alive longer via vibration and keep it from ripping out.
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