SloEvo12

iTrader: (8)

Sub'd. Not really having any idling issues... but interested to take some of the concepts and see if I can make it even better with the trims. Thanks!

Pirana

iTrader: (43)

I've had this thread on my bookmark for a long time, I had some stalling issues. Im no tuner but wanted to get rid of the embarrassing stalling at lights! Well it turns out the original tuner did not do an idle adjust after the 280 cams were installed and after warm up the car would stall, so after a little reading I adjusted the idle table to give me an extra 200rpm to hit 1100, so no more stalling, Thanks!

Now my new problem, my evo has a "Prius" complex! After start up, it idles at 1,100rpm but after I hit the throttle it jumps to 3krpm and wont come down unless I load the engine with a gear engaged. The RPM drops and then it idles back at 1,100rpm. But the cycle repeats itself, even when driving on the highway it works as a cruise control!

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Vic

caLi4G63

iTrader: (40)

^ this is a late response but if your willing to post your calibration map, i can take a look as i'm sure others can also.

whoflungpoo

iTrader: (2)

I don't know how I missed this either, but it sounds like his fuel decel cut isn't set properly. at that high of RPM, the fuel should be off.

I'd also like to add to the discussion: I was having some problems with my A/C killing my car. The idle Comp was set properly, I had 0% feedback with it on or off. But when the compressor would kick off the car would stall.

What I noticed was that when it turned off the feedback would yank down to -5% super and overshoot the A/C off target, causing the car to stumble. I tried adjusting the Idle FB rate, but it didn't really help. I ended up just turning the negative feedback limit to zero and it completely cured it, with no ill effects to my overall driveability.

browningderek

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like you are just covering up the main issue. Try setting your a/c comp & delay higher. This way the engine will rev up before the compressor comes on. When the compressor is on it would be fine if your feedback is -1 to -3 after the idle settles.

Pirana, sounds like your tps sensor is not setup or working correctly. When the throttle is near 0% the fuel cut rpm limit is 2000rpm so if your engine idles higher than that i would check for a sticking throttle or a tps thats not working/setup correctly.

browningderek

iTrader: (7)

Also, if your having issues it helps ALOT if you would post your calibration.

whoflungpoo

iTrader: (2)

It's not when the compressor kicks in, it bumps up just fine. The comp is dialed in perfectly, and the delay is such that it barely fluctuates RPM. It's when it kicks back off. The RPM will jump up a bit, The IAC is set to say, 45% with the A/C on, 20% with it off. with the bump in idle, (maybe 100rpm) it will overcompensate down to 15 to bring the RPM back down, but it won't recover fast enough to the 20% that it SHOULD be at when it hits 900rpm, causing the car to die.

I know it's kinda confusing, but it's like if you're in a plane, and you're cargo gets dumped, it's gonna rise slightly... well with the negative correction on there it's like the pilot jamming the stick down to compensate, but too aggressively, thereby undershooting the desired altitude and hitting the ground.

I'm open to other ways to keep it from doing it, I just haven't run into the need for negative correction.

Aby@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (161)

instead of trying to describe it, post a f6 style log with the appropriate channels logged, so everyone can see whats actually happening.

my a/c load comp is set to 2.73%...... your running 25%???

browningderek

iTrader: (7)

So It dies when the compressor turns off? Like aby said, 25% clamp load is huge! I usually see between 3-6%. You may want to get readjust your biss screw on the throttle body. IMO the iac valve is most effective between 30-50% duty. So if your idle duty is only 20% then idle it down on the throttle body so at 30% duty the feedback is 0 to -2.

On another note altogether, what year is your car and have you ever replaced the iaccoca's valve. I just had my stock one go out. $330 for a new one! I almost had a heart attack... lol

whoflungpoo

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it dies when it turns off, I was using 25% as an example, I think it's closer to 10% I'll have to go look.

I set the BISS to the factory settings (I'm on stock cams at the moment) but I'll try readjusting it to get the IAC up more. I think at 900 it's at ~10%

I've got it apart at the moment chasing down some boost leaks that I think are causing an entirely different issue, but when I get it back up I'll get a log of it.

btw, mines an 03, and luckily I've never had to replace it... methinks I'd be swapping to a q45 TB, or at least junk yard diving for a cross-referenced part, before I popped that much down for the IACV!!

browningderek

iTrader: (7)

I saw a complete tb with iac in the for sale section for $90.

doghouse

iTrader: (11)

Sub'd

flexer

Great info shared! Thanks

03evo_joe

This may be off topic on this thread but can someone tell me how to check my tps settings or values or percentages on the aem pro software. i had to re calculate my tps but i know nothing about the software and afraid of messing something up

Kayosfrawg

I did all this and when warm it works great Thanks so much for the write up! I have a bit of an oddity though, when the car cranks and starts to idle when cold it doesn't use the correct target RPM I started the car this morning and it was cold idling around 800 RPM hunted and then died. So pull out the laptop hook it up and try again, looking at the Idle target base table, clicked follow ECU and based on the coolant temp at the time it should have been idling around 1300 to 1325. Any idea on where I should look for the problem?