I've had that since day one. It seems it has let up a bit but my garage floor is covered in one spot with soot and spans out.

Told a freind to sit there and listen to the exhaust when I got it and sprayed him when I started the car. haha

 

Well, it'll be cool to meet you. I look forward to it. BTW, I just ordfered that wide band O2 controller w/display from you

No, I do not know about the battery offset.... What does that mean? (please forgive the ignorance, it's probably only a temporary condition )

 

in the menu's goto setup_injectors_Primary injectors_primary injector battery offset. a window should come up, select which injector you have.

 

Hmmm.. There is no choice for the injectors I have. The RC 660s are not listed. The Denso 660's are checked instead......

 

thats probably why the car idles funny... you really have to have this table pretty close to get a good idle.

try using the next size up and the next size down RC injector. the denso batt offset is probably way off

 

Hey there Wadzii, did you get my PM? I don't mind if you wan't to come to our shop for some Dyno time on the AEM ems to sort out these problems although on the Vishnu weekend it will be way too busy to switch systems and tuners..
Regards
Andrew
Dyno4mance. Inc

 

yeah, i got hte pm, just been too damn busy to reply. depending on what else we have going on we may roll down for the dyno day just to hang out and meet everyone.... dunno yet though

 

i know this guy who knows this guy and this is what that guy said---now keep in mind this guy knows what he's talking about. the injectors you are using are high impedience. you need low impedience. your injectors are for hondas not evos. i don't know much, but i do know how to listen very well. take it for what it's worth. good luck!!

 

Revised to correct erroneous information

Well, I personally checked the impedance of the injectors and they are 2.5 ohms.... How did you decide my injectors were high impedance? I don't kinow what Hondas use, but the Denso injectors that came from RC Engineering are the proper type for the Evo. Sounds to me like you and your sources are reaching for any excuse possible......

 

almost all ecu's no matter they type are built with saturated injector drivers. that means they need to see about 12-15ohms of resistance. im not 100% sure on the evo, but if it has low impedance injectors i would bet that there is a resistor pack somewhere. up untill about a month ago the biggest saturated injector you could get from rc was 550cc.

 

I have an update about this whole mess. First of all, the Injectors that came from RC are labeled "Denso"... I guess RC either builds them for Denso or re-builds them... Secondly, I measured the impedance myself and they measured around 2.2 ohms, so they would appear to be low impedance (the stock injectors measure 2 ohms).... Since then, I had George pull those out and install HKS low impedance 680 injectors.

According to George, he experienced first hand the "fart burn" effect when he let the car idle in his shop for 20 minutes with the RC (Denso) injectors. He found a huge black soot deposit on his floor. Now, accorcing to George I no longer have the "fart burn" effect although I have not checked it because they resurfaced my parking lot and you could not tell the black soot from the new blacktop..........

Anyway, with my AEM UEGO display I can see that during cruising my A/Fs are between 12.5:1 and 16:1, but generally they hover in the 14-15:1 range. My highway mileage is around 20-21 mpg, my commuting mileage is around 17-18 mpg. I think thats a 10-20% increase in fuel consumtion.

During idle, my performance varies considerably and I cannot tell what causes the variances. I still have stalling issues. Sometimes the car runs great and idles more or less steadily around 1000 rpm. Other times it fluctuates between 1000+ and nearly zero rpms which will invariably cause a stall for some reason, the A/Fs at idle will vary from 11.5:1 to lean off the scale.... When they get very lean is when the car stalls and the rpms fluctuate wildly. When it idles OK the A/Fs are richer.

Funny thing, the AEM EMS will show much richer values than the UEGO displays... I've watched as the car idles and the laptop displays a 7:1 A/F but the AEM UEGO shows 11.5:1... WTF! Anyway, the car does not idle very well in a consistent basis. The gas mileage sucks even if I drive it easily. I still will get black clouds of smoke if I punch the gas from easy cruising or low speeds. OTOH, the car is definitely faster and quicker than before the mods. I've gained about 1.3 seconds and 9+ mph in the 1/4 mile with easy launches and even missing shifts

Still, I like to think that there is a better state of tune that I could have my car in..... I just don'y know how to do it

 

Find someone with a dyno who know's how to tune. Should be a very easy fix. If you need a suggestion and don't mind a little road trip let me know.

 

You need to calibrate the Wideband on the EMS, so the EMS always shows the same AFR as the wideband's display. Easy to do, but very few people spend the time to do it properly... Detailed instructions are on the EMS forums.

RC Engineering rebuilds/cleans all kinds of injectors. The RC brand injectors with the red and white label on them are Lucas type 2.5 ohm Saturated injectors. You can also get Denso injectors from them, but that is not their standard. If you download the latest 04/02 release of the AEMPRO software from the EMS forums there are a bunch of injectors added to the wizard now. Worst case, you can send the injectors in to AEM and have them chart them out for you if you are certain they are of a type that hasn't already been tested.

Most cars use Saturated type injectors that are low impedance, but the ECU prefers a high-impedance trigger to reduce the current flowing through the injector drivers, so there is a ballast resistor on the firewall of the car that sits between the injectors and the ECU injector drivers. The injectors themselves should be in the 1.7-3 ohm range.

 

the guage type wideband has a different calibration than the normal uego. It is NOT in the wizards, you have to manually input the voltage calibration if you have the guage type.

 

Well, the whole issue of injectors is moot since I had the new injectors...... However, it's interesting that the injectors (which I got from Shawn Glass) came from RC but were boxed and label as Denso injectors. Also, I definitely checked them with a multimeter and they had 2.5 ohm resistance which is very close to the stock injectors which have 2.0 ohms.... Anyway, for some reason the RC (Denso) injectors did not work well according to George, but the HKS are supposed to work fine... Of course, as far as I can tell, my idle and fuel comsumption issues remain the same I guess the big clouds of black smoke have decreased in frequency.. At least tha's positive

This is interesting. why should the A/F readings differ from the AEM EMS to the UEGO display? This is very confusing to me. How can the same exhaust gasses cause different voltages? If so, which one is right? Is the AEM EMS wrong all the time? If so, how does it know how to control the fuel injection system?
OK, OK, lets say that I don't need to know which one is right and which one is wrong... How do I "really" make them match? Shouldn't they match in order for stuff to work as planned?

And for the really bad news.........

Anyway, the whole thing is pretty much a back burner issue since I got rear ended last night Yeah, a Domino's Pizza delivery guy plowed right into my car while I waited at a red light Domino's Pizza
I guess I'm in for yet another round of hassles with Ins companies, body shops and mechanics. I'm really bummed out about my car Well, at least my wife and I appear to have suffered no major injury.... Of course, we're sore and hurting and we've not gone to the chiropractor yet.....