tws this weekend
Didn't get to go, so TWS will be the first time on the new engine. Not a bad place to open up the HP..... I'm going to order a vbox performance box at some point so I can get good lap times. Until then, I have an app on my phone that looks decent, but I have no mount for it in the car. I'll try and figure something out.
Didn't realize I hadn't updated here:
Track weekend update: fuel starvation is still an issue, I will have to get a surge tank setup to avoid having to top off every session. Unfortunately, I never got to open it up on the race gas due to this issue, but on my 490 track pump tune, I had much success. The track has a pretty long straight, so we get up to some high speeds. I think I hit in the 140-145 range at the end of the straight. I pulled a chipped (550whp) viper up until 125 and my shift to 5th. Suspension worked very well, though I feel that with better tires than the nt05 I would have turned faster speeds. Once I fixed the fueling issue by topping off the tank w/ the pump (the race gas was hand pumped by me, so I never really topped off as I never knew when the tank was full), I was quite fast. Only got passed once, and it was by a stock car looking thing - and I ended up catching and passing him half a lap later. He was on hoosiers, so he just caught me in a set of slow turns where my dying tires were yelling at me.
Fueling will be solved by either
this: http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...17398-1-2.html
or this: http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-in...k-p-21527.html
Not sure which is 'better', but both look like nice pre-made solutions. Plus relatively quiet due to the pump inside the tank.
Also boiled my brake fluid (super blue). I think the stock lines allowed some water to get in over the last 6 months, so I'm due for a flush anyway and I'll put on SS lines while we're down there. Also girodisc titanium shims on their way, with some castrol SRF. Clearly, when I hit an issue I fix it right away, and I fix it right :-)
Track weekend update: fuel starvation is still an issue, I will have to get a surge tank setup to avoid having to top off every session. Unfortunately, I never got to open it up on the race gas due to this issue, but on my 490 track pump tune, I had much success. The track has a pretty long straight, so we get up to some high speeds. I think I hit in the 140-145 range at the end of the straight. I pulled a chipped (550whp) viper up until 125 and my shift to 5th. Suspension worked very well, though I feel that with better tires than the nt05 I would have turned faster speeds. Once I fixed the fueling issue by topping off the tank w/ the pump (the race gas was hand pumped by me, so I never really topped off as I never knew when the tank was full), I was quite fast. Only got passed once, and it was by a stock car looking thing - and I ended up catching and passing him half a lap later. He was on hoosiers, so he just caught me in a set of slow turns where my dying tires were yelling at me.
Fueling will be solved by either
this: http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...17398-1-2.html
or this: http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-in...k-p-21527.html
Not sure which is 'better', but both look like nice pre-made solutions. Plus relatively quiet due to the pump inside the tank.
Also boiled my brake fluid (super blue). I think the stock lines allowed some water to get in over the last 6 months, so I'm due for a flush anyway and I'll put on SS lines while we're down there. Also girodisc titanium shims on their way, with some castrol SRF. Clearly, when I hit an issue I fix it right away, and I fix it right :-)
Also boiled my brake fluid (super blue). I think the stock lines allowed some water to get in over the last 6 months, so I'm due for a flush anyway and I'll put on SS lines while we're down there. Also girodisc titanium shims on their way, with some castrol SRF. Clearly, when I hit an issue I fix it right away, and I fix it right :-)
What happened to your stock shims? Just curious why you would replace them, I think Gates was still running on them until his recent brake upgrade.
Last edited by SiliconTek; May 23, 2011 at 03:52 PM.
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Didn't realize I hadn't updated here:
Track weekend update: fuel starvation is still an issue, I will have to get a surge tank setup to avoid having to top off every session. Unfortunately, I never got to open it up on the race gas due to this issue, but on my 490 track pump tune, I had much success. The track has a pretty long straight, so we get up to some high speeds. I think I hit in the 140-145 range at the end of the straight. I pulled a chipped (550whp) viper up until 125 and my shift to 5th. Suspension worked very well, though I feel that with better tires than the nt05 I would have turned faster speeds. Once I fixed the fueling issue by topping off the tank w/ the pump (the race gas was hand pumped by me, so I never really topped off as I never knew when the tank was full), I was quite fast. Only got passed once, and it was by a stock car looking thing - and I ended up catching and passing him half a lap later. He was on hoosiers, so he just caught me in a set of slow turns where my dying tires were yelling at me.
Fueling will be solved by either
this: http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...17398-1-2.html
or this: http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-in...k-p-21527.html
Not sure which is 'better', but both look like nice pre-made solutions. Plus relatively quiet due to the pump inside the tank.
Also boiled my brake fluid (super blue). I think the stock lines allowed some water to get in over the last 6 months, so I'm due for a flush anyway and I'll put on SS lines while we're down there. Also girodisc titanium shims on their way, with some castrol SRF. Clearly, when I hit an issue I fix it right away, and I fix it right :-)
Track weekend update: fuel starvation is still an issue, I will have to get a surge tank setup to avoid having to top off every session. Unfortunately, I never got to open it up on the race gas due to this issue, but on my 490 track pump tune, I had much success. The track has a pretty long straight, so we get up to some high speeds. I think I hit in the 140-145 range at the end of the straight. I pulled a chipped (550whp) viper up until 125 and my shift to 5th. Suspension worked very well, though I feel that with better tires than the nt05 I would have turned faster speeds. Once I fixed the fueling issue by topping off the tank w/ the pump (the race gas was hand pumped by me, so I never really topped off as I never knew when the tank was full), I was quite fast. Only got passed once, and it was by a stock car looking thing - and I ended up catching and passing him half a lap later. He was on hoosiers, so he just caught me in a set of slow turns where my dying tires were yelling at me.
Fueling will be solved by either
this: http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...17398-1-2.html
or this: http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-in...k-p-21527.html
Not sure which is 'better', but both look like nice pre-made solutions. Plus relatively quiet due to the pump inside the tank.
Also boiled my brake fluid (super blue). I think the stock lines allowed some water to get in over the last 6 months, so I'm due for a flush anyway and I'll put on SS lines while we're down there. Also girodisc titanium shims on their way, with some castrol SRF. Clearly, when I hit an issue I fix it right away, and I fix it right :-)
for the brakes, the ti shims wont do anything. if your boiling them over now with street tires, its only going to get worse as you get faster. on all our race cars we run, adding ti shims didn't even add a hint of better "insulation" for the fluid. in your case if it had been 6 month since the last fluid flush, its likely that would help, but 6 months isn't bad between fluid flushs. the SRF will help the most depending on what fluid you were using previously. what pads are you using? if you want track performance level pads, we are running the hawk DTC-70s in joshs X, along with the amsoil 600 brake fluid and the AMS brake air guides. we don't have any issues with brakes at all, even running hoosiers. not sure what times you were clocking out there but i know joshs car is pretty fast.
for the surge tanks, both those systems are generic units, but you have to mount them vertically or else your just going to have the same problems as before. the design of the tank needs to be tall and skinny, so pulling Gees doesn't cause the fuel to slosh away from the pump inlets. for a "street" car it might be ok mounted sideways, but through corners like big bend, you can have sustained gees for a few seconds which can be critical to not starving the pump. our tank design will have 100% of its fuel available to the engine in the surge tank, even on hard gees at all times. not to mention the tanks are the inexpensive part. the lines and fittings are what make surge tank kits so expensive. neither of those kits come with anything, nor are they designed for our cars (i.e. mounting can be tricky). our kit with the bosch 044 will be $820, for the tank, pump, all the fittings, all the lines, and all the electric components you'll need for a direct install.
^I saw this surge tank at MOD this past weekend. It looks very good. Josh's car has one mounted and it looks like an ideal solution, however I know nothing about that sort of stuff. 
That is a cool tank setup. I REALLY like the option to mount it under the hood instead of the trunk, like you said, nothing like getting deluged with fuel in the event something goes wrong.
What happened to your stock shims? Just curious why you would replace them, I think Gates was still running on them until his recent brake upgrade.
What happened to your stock shims? Just curious why you would replace them, I think Gates was still running on them until his recent brake upgrade.
I'm also considering Kevin's setup, my only concern was that I would either need the beatrush rear bulkhead, or to put back in my rear seats. I don't like fuel lines being exposed to my body. I have this natural aversion to flames on me :-)
for the brakes, the ti shims wont do anything. if your boiling them over now with street tires, its only going to get worse as you get faster. on all our race cars we run, adding ti shims didn't even add a hint of better "insulation" for the fluid. in your case if it had been 6 month since the last fluid flush, its likely that would help, but 6 months isn't bad between fluid flushs. the SRF will help the most depending on what fluid you were using previously. what pads are you using? if you want track performance level pads, we are running the hawk DTC-70s in joshs X, along with the amsoil 600 brake fluid and the AMS brake air guides. we don't have any issues with brakes at all, even running hoosiers. not sure what times you were clocking out there but i know joshs car is pretty fast.
for the surge tanks, both those systems are generic units, but you have to mount them vertically or else your just going to have the same problems as before. the design of the tank needs to be tall and skinny, so pulling Gees doesn't cause the fuel to slosh away from the pump inlets. for a "street" car it might be ok mounted sideways, but through corners like big bend, you can have sustained gees for a few seconds which can be critical to not starving the pump. our tank design will have 100% of its fuel available to the engine in the surge tank, even on hard gees at all times. not to mention the tanks are the inexpensive part. the lines and fittings are what make surge tank kits so expensive. neither of those kits come with anything, nor are they designed for our cars (i.e. mounting can be tricky). our kit with the bosch 044 will be $820, for the tank, pump, all the fittings, all the lines, and all the electric components you'll need for a direct install.
for the surge tanks, both those systems are generic units, but you have to mount them vertically or else your just going to have the same problems as before. the design of the tank needs to be tall and skinny, so pulling Gees doesn't cause the fuel to slosh away from the pump inlets. for a "street" car it might be ok mounted sideways, but through corners like big bend, you can have sustained gees for a few seconds which can be critical to not starving the pump. our tank design will have 100% of its fuel available to the engine in the surge tank, even on hard gees at all times. not to mention the tanks are the inexpensive part. the lines and fittings are what make surge tank kits so expensive. neither of those kits come with anything, nor are they designed for our cars (i.e. mounting can be tricky). our kit with the bosch 044 will be $820, for the tank, pump, all the fittings, all the lines, and all the electric components you'll need for a direct install.
Fluid was ate super blue. I think it got water in it from the stock lines allowing moisture to seep in, which is why I'll replace the lines and switch to the SRF. I figure for something I'll do 1-2x a year, spending 70/liter vs 30/liter just isn't that big a deal, and the SRF is 100% the best fluid out there.
Pads are carbotech xp12/xp10s. I love them, they seemed to not wear down at all this whole weekend, whereas the ET900's I had before lasted 1.5 days before they were bare metal. If I ever need more pad, I'll stick w/ carbotech and move to xp16/14 or 14/12, only other option would be st-43s. I don't like hawk pads, though I don't know where the dtc-70s fit in with the ones I mentioned.
Kevin, I only posted those other two to see what the thoughts were about them, your solution is very much being considered :-)
The shims is a why the hell not, if it makes any bit of a difference, then its a good thing. And I was ordering the SS lines from girodisc already, so threw in the shims as well.
I'm also considering Kevin's setup, my only concern was that I would either need the beatrush rear bulkhead, or to put back in my rear seats. I don't like fuel lines being exposed to my body. I have this natural aversion to flames on me :-)
I'm also considering Kevin's setup, my only concern was that I would either need the beatrush rear bulkhead, or to put back in my rear seats. I don't like fuel lines being exposed to my body. I have this natural aversion to flames on me :-)
we can make a block off plate for the corner of the trunk where the surge tank sits. didn't realize you were running without a back seat, so you'll definately want to block it off
the hawk dtc70 pads i would think are comparable to the xp16 pads. i can't really describe how much better the DTC70 is from any other hawk pad, but it is their top of the line, track only pad. most aggressive bite, highest temp range. todd, jim, josh, tam, and myself all run them though, and i haven't heard anyone say anything bad about them other then they work so well, they are hard to gauge where to stop for someone who isn't used to them
i would recommend giving them a try, but i would be running an R compound tire before i go to a pad like this.
Last edited by KevinD; May 24, 2011 at 06:24 AM.
Good to hear you had a good time. It is always nice having more Evo's playing on the track.
Some comments:
I have the titanium shims and did not notice any difference. I am notorious for being really hard on brake pads. But if you already got them, they definitely won't hurt.
The single best thing I've done for my brake setup was the cooling ducts. Kevin purchased the hoses for me and he got the brake cooling guides off a guy on evom. You must do this if you want to ensure full 30 minute sessions of beating on the car in the summer. I have braided lines, run Amsoil brake fluid, and have Hawk DTC-70's in the front and Hawk HP Blue's in the rear.
For the surge tank, you will not find a better setup than Kevin's. It is fully assembled, track tested, and built locally. You will end up spending way more on the ones you linked. And for the concern of fuel spilling into the cabin; just put a shroud around it or get a blockoff plate for the back seat. It is WAY more dangerous to have the pump in the engine bay. I would much rather take the chance of getting fuel in the cabin than having my car catch on fire.
Some comments:
I have the titanium shims and did not notice any difference. I am notorious for being really hard on brake pads. But if you already got them, they definitely won't hurt.
The single best thing I've done for my brake setup was the cooling ducts. Kevin purchased the hoses for me and he got the brake cooling guides off a guy on evom. You must do this if you want to ensure full 30 minute sessions of beating on the car in the summer. I have braided lines, run Amsoil brake fluid, and have Hawk DTC-70's in the front and Hawk HP Blue's in the rear.
For the surge tank, you will not find a better setup than Kevin's. It is fully assembled, track tested, and built locally. You will end up spending way more on the ones you linked. And for the concern of fuel spilling into the cabin; just put a shroud around it or get a blockoff plate for the back seat. It is WAY more dangerous to have the pump in the engine bay. I would much rather take the chance of getting fuel in the cabin than having my car catch on fire.
I have been running my Carbotech pads (XP10/XP8) for about 4 months now and I have to agree, I really like these pads. I don't know if you DD on yours being a step up on aggressiveness but mine are very manageable DD. The only negative side I have seen is rotor wear, outside of that my pads aren't showing hardly any signs of wear at all. The dust is non-corrosive and washes off easily with just a hose.