All the parts are in and i'm in the middle of assembly. On the website it says to notch the block.

"You will have to slightly notch your 4G63 block when installing this stroker kit. These two contact points will become apparent after you install the rotating assembly and carefully turn the crankshaft. The pictures below show you where to make the modifications."

My rods aren't coming into contact with the block... It's tight but the instructions with the rods only call for .060 inches which is a little over 1.5 MM. If i did the grinding as much as you guys show in the pictures i would have 5+ mm. It's almost impossible to measure but it looks like i've got at lest 2 mm in there now...

I'm just trying to get a feel for wether or not this is still a requirement. (Has the casting changed sense the old days?) I've got a 2005 VIII with the manley rods.

Do you guys do the grinding to be on the safe side? If so i'll go ahead. I don't want to remove material from the block unless I really need to. It looks like there's about the same amount of clearance between my rod and block at the webbing as there is between the rod and the main cap girdle.

 

my manley I beams hit.

????

 

I talked with a friend and he suggested that there might be slight variations in the castings which seems possible. Maybe there is more than one casting as well. I visualize a row of maybe 5 blocks or something... I also see that you have an '03. I wonder how many '05 strokers there are...

 

Hey Rob_GPT

We have seen a number of blocks come through here and not all of them were casted the same. Some had a lot of material where we ask you to notch it out and others had very little material. We recommend the notching because we dont know the condition of the block that the stroker kit is going into for the kits that we sell out right. Also having a little extra clearence is a good idea to ensure that the rod never encounters the block.

 

After further inspection i've got plenty of room but i'm goign to have to take a little material off where the #1 rod bolt is VERY close to the skirt right at the bottom where the oil pan bolts up.

I also had to bend my oil squirters a little. They were tapping the piston skirt.

 

Is this the recommended way to fix the oil squirter issue. I'm up against the same thing assembling my 2.3L? What does AMS typically do to create clearance for the squirters.

 

Hey jid2@[BINARY],

That is correct with the squiters. When Tim is assembling the 2.3 strokers and the oil squirters are very close to the pistons he bends them slightly out of the way for clearence so that they do not hit.

 

Thanks for the tip. Somebody mentioned in another thread that you guys were using shims?

 

Hey jid2@[BINARY],

Tim will also use a washer between the squirter and the block it give it extra clearence if it is necessary to avoid contact with the piston.

 

whenever I assembled my AMS stroker kit the rods were coming in contact with the balance shafts and the block. I'm using the Eagle crankshaft though so maybe that's why as far as the oil squirters I just bent them out of the way.

 

That's my plan, add a washer and bend a little. Cool.

 

were are the pics for this grinding??

 

Here are mine. This was overly conservative and done so I didn't have to mock things up multiple times. I just cleared each web out.

There are pics on AMS's website where the stroker kit is sold.

 

is it just on the one side that it needs to be done?? or does anyone els have any other pics for this??

 

Hey hlm,

Here is a link for the pictures that we have for the block where it needs to be trimmed. It only needs to be trimmed on the sides. I hope this helps

http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...products_id=94