so heres the deal... bought this car used over a year ago. motor blew at 15k miles which was completely my fault for not data logging and seeing if the "tune" was ok. had Buschur sleeve the block and stg 3 the head with gsc s2's, was planning a fp black build. I got the motor back and assembled and put back in my car in the garage. after dealing with many little gremlins got the car running and drove to PA to get tuned by someone that a couple of my friends have used with good results, one an evo x. i got there and found out that the front o2 sensor was failing and he could not tune it properly. he tried through e tuning but i was just never satisfied, so i went to another company to e tune my car. i researched this alot and everyone was very happy from what i've read about his e tunes so i pulled the trigger. today i still feel that it is not correct. when coming to a stop my afr's stick around 12-1 and sometimes takes up to 30 seconds for it to become stoich and stinks of fuel. when cold the car misfires. when you start the car cold lots of carbon flys outta the exhaust and i feel it is dumping smoke under wot. i know its a turbo and some black smoke is normal but i think this amount is too much, it cakes the back of the car in black carbon. i have gone through everything 3 times and had other friends go over the car and still can't find anything. here is a log of driving and a few 3rd gear pulls. the only part not in my sig that i have is the grimm spreed 3 port.

please any help is greatly appreciated

 

Who have you had tune it?

 

the last e tune was done by mitch at ams but i just noticed the other day that their site doesn't offer it anymore...

 

ok maybe i should clarify, i am just wondering if i drive this car this way if i'm safe. i don't want to blow another motor. please someone look at my logs and let me know. i am no tuner... i can build'em but i know nothing when it comes to what i need to look for on my logs please and thanks

 

Emil me I would be happy to look at the tune.

mitch.mckee@cobbtuning.com

Mitch

 

E tuning is ****ty you need to get the thing dyno tuned by a professional. you just spent alot of cash on that new motor spend another $500 instead of another $5000.

 

it sounds like you have a wideband but that is not shown on the log.
are these logs from an accessport? EDIT: duh, just realized i was in the access port forum.
i take it you can't tie that in here?

i cant tell you too much from these logs but here is what i see:

the good news is your boost curve looks fine: looks like max ~26psi @3500-4000 tapering to 20 at 7000rpm.

also good, your fuel trims look acceptable (-2 cruise, -5 idle).
assuming your front o2 sensor is functioning and there is no exhaust leak, your injectors do seemed to be dialed in.
if you are in closed loop, your AFR should be ~14.7. if they are not, then stop right here, there is a problem and it might be mechanical. check your fuel pump, fuel pressure, fuel pump relay, vacuum hoses, injectors and injector wiring (especially pigtails).


i do see a couple of abnormally high knock counts. i don't know what is involved in a stage 3 head, but that i know that valve train and built motors can show knock through increased engine noise.

however, these examples are more indicative of tune:

on datalog14.csv, line 243. it looks like you gave it partial throttle and hit ~11 psi. you also hit a 10 knock count. rpm: 3500-4000; load ~160

line 524. knock count 6. rpm 3500-4100; load ~120
line 916. knock count 10. rpm 3500-4500; load ~190

you really need to know what the AFR was at these points to determine what you need to change. once you have that, then you can look at your high octane fuel maps and timing maps where those rpm and load numbers intersect.


looking at the WOT data on datalog16.csv, you have pretty consistent knock all the way through. looking at wot data on datalog17.csv however, you have a miniscule 1 count of knock. are 16 and 17 the same tune? did you make an adjustment on any part of the car?



last bit of info, your logs are recording too slowly. anyway to speed them up? maybe turn some stuff off.

personally i like to log (in this order):

rpm (always)
load (always)
tps (always)

boost (for WOT data and tuning boost)
barometer (for wot data when using direct boost control)
WGDC (a must for tuning boost).

timing adv
knock sum
wideband afr


there is no need to log:
intake air temp and coolant temp, unless you are trying to relate an issue to temp
injector duty cycle, this one is good but your logs look fine. this is more to diagnose if you are running out of fuel/injector
ltft and stft. you log these when you are dialing in your injectors. it's good to check them occasionally but yours look fine.
speed, just not needed
learned knock, knock sum is sufficient.
WGDCC%. this is the correction being applied to your wastegate. your might be set to no correction. much better to log WGDC.

 

thanks for the help i just emailed mitch to see what he has to say

 

^
Dude has no idea what he is talking about.

Black smoke is normal on a turbo'd vehicle(as you know). Alot of black smoke usually means your running rich. Running real rich will also cause hesitation. What kind of exhaust do you have? Do you have a test pipe? You will get more black smoke with a exhaust system that has a test pipe and less restrictions.

The more power you are pushing the more close of an eye you need to keep on your car. Log that **** 24/7. I like my Tactrix 2.0 connector cause i can put a micro SD card in there and either run my wideband through my rear o2 sensor (if i had an AEM Wideband) or connect my LC-1 directly to my tactrix cable and it can log everytime I have the car running. So if something happens, I'll have logs showing it.

But I am sure Mitch will hook you up. He is one of the best for the X.

 

i am having trouble getting my aem uego to log with atr so currently cant log it but yeah mitch just emailed me back and i sent him some logs... didn't know he is now at cobb.

 

so mitch cant look at my tune cause of the ams key needed and he no longer works there. he told me he'd help but said he was real busy and i can understand and don't expect him to retune, but now I'm soo confused. what is happening to my fuel trims they just continue to drift further and further negative?

 

So much good knowledge in here! Hope it gets figured out OP!

 

Have you done any type of mechanical tests on your vehicle? Boost leak, compression, leak down? I understand your vehicle was recently built, but we need to make sure that everything is mechanically sound as it could effect and skew the tune itself.


-Steve

 

hello and thanks for the response, i have looked this car over up and down and i have had 2 very good techs look it over as well. the compression was a low of 205 and a high of 210, no boost leaks. the car was running great, then the weather started getting colder up here in vermont. then my logs started showing knock. i can still do 1-4 gear pulls with no knock but if in say 3 around 3200 rpm if i go wot the car shows up to 14 counts of knock when coming into boost. i have tested every sensor i can think of per mitsubishi's service manual and all test good. i had a snap on ultra plugged into it and graphing a bunch of parameters and the o2 cycles as it should and found my maf to be reading the temp off by 20 or so degrees. checked the resistance and it was way out if spec. i changed that out with a known good one and my trims dropped a little but it still knocks and they are still at around -12.00 from -12.5. i am at a loss with this car as everything mechanical is checking out.

 

I would recommend getting this vehicle on a dyno and verifying everything before something bad happens. Installing an external knock sensor, verifying fuel pressure, many diagnostic tools that can be used while on a dyno to help solve the problem.