Story: I was driving on the freeway, heard a loud noise, and losing engine power. Then, I cruised it on the side of freeway and got the car towed back to my home. Engine idle is ok and no engine light. When I opened my hood, I noticed the black flexible coupler that connects to the throttle body (intake manifold) popped off (worm-drive clamp is still there). Then, I reconnected the coupler back and tightened clamp with a Phillip-tip screwdriver.

Next steps: Based on my research, it is recommended to use T-Bolt hose clamp instead of the stock worm-drive clamp.

Is it recommended to replace the black flexible coupler also? If yes, what is the official name and part#? And where can I buy a stock-looking one?

Thanks in advance!

 

If you are staying with the stock piping, the stock coupler is fine.

My suggestion would be to get some measurements and buy T-bolt clamps to replace all the standard ones; they make a huge difference.
In the mean time, you could spray a little hair spray on the throttle body where the coupler sits and that helps keep couplers on too.

 

Thanks for the comments!

I just installed a 2.75" T-bolt clamp on the existing coupler near the throttle body and a 2.5" T-bolt clamp near the stock intercooler piping.

When I have time in the future, I will replace all stock clamps with T-bolt clamps.

Thanks!

 

Perfect. That should handle that issue then.

Yea, once you have time, just run through and do them all otherwise the coupler that pops off might just shift around to a different location on you.

 

mine still falls off even with t-bolt clamps(TB and turbo). thats when I add rivets on the clamp to give it extra bite

 

Interesting, so you add rivets to the t-bolt clamp so it bites the boot harder? I have never heard of that but its a cool trick for sure.

I haven't personally had issues on my evo with the couplers coming off but I'll keep that in mind if I ever do.

 

yeah. maybe 4 rivets. it would look like a spiked dog collar . you can get the "right" sized clamp but sometimes you can max it out and would work for a while. but as the hoses get squished, engine moving around, the weight of the cone filter, and having some oil in the IC tubes...it could still fall out and give you some trouble.

 

Mine used to pop off ALL. THE. TIME.

What I did, and NEVER had another problem:

clean inside of coupling with a bit of carb cleaner.
clean surface of TB off really well
put a bit of hair spray on inside of rubber coupling (maybe overkill... maybe doesn't work... but old habits die hard).
Most important part: get a CONSTANT TORQUE HOSE CLAMP. Worm drive works pretty well when new, it's best to replace them after being re-tightened once or twice. T-clamps suck - they pinch the coupling in one spot instead of clamping the entire surface. Then they leak... and don't hold stuff on.. so Then you think you need to make it even more tight so can pinch IC piping, etc.

I never had a problem up to 32psi peak and sustained 30psi.

link to CTC. The washers work much like the bellvue washers we use to hold our turbos to the mani. They keep tension on the bolt to keep it from coming loose:

https://www.4statetrucks.com/stainle...RoCq7AQAvD_BwE

 

I prefer ease of removal also. hairspray and cleaners is just too silly for me.
the clamped section of the hose can get so smooth and/or store oil in it so i think the best solution is to keep the oil out of the system, use silicon hoses and let the hoses form a bite into whatever its coupling to. not bolting the IC pipes to the frame definitely is the biggest factor

 

Murray Constant Tension Clamps

 

that thing seems cool but i'd feel more secure/confident super tightening a bolt plus I can mount other stuff on the bolt

 

It takes two seconds and cleaning stuff before you put it together just makes comments sense. It also has nothing to do with ease or difficulty of removal.

Beside the point, anyway, as OP is asking for solutions and I didn't have an intercooler coupling pop off for 4 years. OP can take The information and do with it as he wishes.

 

I do life this way I rather not use anything thats not available from the parts store. I know you didnt use the bottom engine cover but I have removed the IC hose clamps once on a track day because I dropped something in the engine bay. If i relied on hairspray then i'm screwed.
IMO small battery trays looked cool until youre hundred of miles from home and need a replacement battery... this is why I use a standard motorcycle battery and OE tray. I can even put a battery inside the car. also have an extra batt life is just brutal sometimes

 

I mentioned hair spray being overkill and unnecessary. I had it so used it. 99% sure the heat burned it off.
I went back to a standard battery too, but full size. I feel like starting the car sucked the poor mini battery dry. Lol

 

How did I miss this train wreck of a thread!
What a tragedy!? If only there was multiple threads on multiple forums that described this issue and had proven solutions. Oh wait there are. Glad to see thread topics from 2003 are being reposted again.

@ViciousLSD I admire your effort to ceaselessly reinvent the wheel. I sleep well at night knowing that you are coming up with inventive solutions that are so unique no one has ever done them. Truly you are a poster child for a reincarnation of Thomas Edison. I can only look from afar at the majesty of your mind for it dazzles so brillantly I might be blind if I gaze upon you up close.

@kaj I thought about something interesting about hair spray but I dont get the kind that smells nice. I get the cheap stuff that is unscented and advertises itself as a strong hold. I figure if this can last for a whole day on my head then it should be able to withstand the temps in the engine bay. I might be wrong but then again I dont have to deal with boost leaks that often. Boosted life can be like a cool breeze if you know what to do.